Grand Canyon - New Hance to Grandview Part 4

A long day of hiking combined with the near absolute stillness of the Inner Canyon leads in most cases to sound sleep. Lying snug in my sleeping bag listening to the quiet gurgle of Hance Creek and the occasional croak of a frog, it's not long before the mind slips into peaceful dreams and the body relaxes to the fullest. Before I know it the first faint light creeping into the eastern sky wakes me, and I reluctantly will myself to leave the warm cocoon of my tent.

Rising early is often a necessity in the Canyon as the sun will soon climb over the sheer walls, and while it is yet spring the best hiking is done when the air is still cool. I also know that today we hike out, and the sooner we get going the sooner we'll reach the rim.

The previous days' hike only gained about 1500 feet in elevation, and that was spread out over several miles. Today we must climb over 3500 feet in just over 4.5 miles, and the trail wastes no time getting started. The biggest obstacle to overcome is the prominent Redwall formation, a limestone cliff band midway through the Canyon layers which ranges from 700 to 900 feet high. Because it is uniformly sheer throughout the region, trails take advantage of faults or slumps that occur in some side canyons. In the picture below, the trail climbs steeply up just right of center.


Here is a view taken from about two thirds of the way up which illustrates the steep nature of the climb and the sheer walls of the Redwall limestone.


The right side of this canyon is formed by a feature called Horseshoe Mesa, so named because of the roughly "U" shaped contour when viewed from the rim. The Mesa played a significant part in early Anglo exploration of the Canyon, chiefly as a source of high grade copper ore around the turn of the 20th century.

The story of the Last Chance Mine and it's main protaganist Pete Berry is a fascinating tale, and more can be read about the enterprising gentleman and his place in Canyon history here. Today he is best remembered as one of the principal builders of the amazing Grandview Trail, constructed to provide better access to mining claims on and around Horseshoe Mesa.

The area is littered with old mining equipment and artifacts, as well as some of the old mine shafts. The arid desert environment has preserved many of these objects remarkably well, leaving tangible evidence of these early pioneers for future visitors.




After an unrelenting climb up the side of the Redwall, the trail emerges onto Horeshoe Mesa, and once more expansive views of the Grand Canyon surround you.








The Mesa is a great place to stop and prepare for the final ascent. From here you can finally see the rim of the Canyon and the final 3 miles and 2300 feet of the climb.


The Grandview Trail leads up and out (or down and in if you're heading in the opposite direction), and is one of the steeper paths found at the Canyon. This is primarily because a third of the length is a mostly level traverse of the Supai formation, leaving the majority of the elevation gain/loss for the last two miles.

The trail was originally an ancient path used by native peoples as they migrated in and out of the canyon and was later substantially improved by miners to transport ore from the mines to the rim. Much of the rock work and cribbing used to construct the "modern" trail is still in place.




The uphill grind is relentless. Even though I am in reasonably good shape, hiking uphill with a heavy pack that has not lightened up much over the last few days takes its toll, and I pause at most switchbacks to catch my breath and let the fire in my legs subside. Taking plenty of breaks and a slow steady pace is the key to making it out of the Canyon.


As always, the stunning landscape provides a nice diversion from the physical challenge of hiking out. Although apparent progress is slow the vantage point becomes noticeably higher as you continue on, step by step.


Finally the rim is near, and I begin to hear noise indicating I am approaching the developed world again. Soon the sound of people talking excitedly and cars and buses arriving and departing the viewpoint replaces the natural quiet I've experienced over the last three days. We also encounter casual tourists blithely traipsing down the trail, wearing absurdly inappropriate footwear and clothing as they make a few tentative steps into the great abyss.


Before I know it we've reached Grandview Point and the rim, and the hike is over. Although my legs are tired and I am glad that the punishing uphill grind is finished, I am sad that my temporary escape from everyday life has ended. The extraordinary place I've been immersed in is like nothing else on Earth, and though the journey is challenging being in the Canyon on its' terms is a truly satisfying and liberating experience.


I can't wait for the next trip.

Grand Canyon - New Hance to Grandview Part 3

After a satisfying day meandering along the Tonto plateau, the destination for the next camp slowly comes into view as the trail begins a long traverse up canyon to Hance Creek, located below Horseshoe Mesa. From this final Inner Canyon resting place we'll make the long ascent out the next morning.

As is typical for hiking on the Tonto, the canyon bottom appears well below as the trail begins the final approach. Tantalizing glimpses of green trees and running water beckon the tired hiker onward, providing much needed motivation to keep moving. Each step brings the promise of rest closer, along with the simple reward of enjoying the awesome scenery while relaxing in camp.




Nestled in the upper reaches of Hance Creek, this primitive "campground" offers several sites along a year-round stream. For anyone familiar with Grand Canyon hiking, this much appreciated source of running water is a welcome change from the largely waterless environment that is the Inner Canyon. Except for the river which is mostly inaccessible to the hiker, these few perennial streams are an oasis along which travelers congregate, making them essential waypoints for many visitors.

Anyone who has carried a heavy pack for hours knows the exultant sensation that occurs when a destination is reached and the load is removed from their shoulders. Gravity seems suddenly lessened, and legs that felt leaden moments before become light and springy again. And knowing the weight is off your back for at least 12 hours greatly improves the mental outlook as well.

Finding a likely spot Jim and I drop our packs and set up the tents, as light rain showers continue to threaten overhead. It is early afternoon when we arrive, so there is plenty of time to explore the area after lunch. There is another small group who arrived ahead of us occupying sites down canyon, some of the very few people we have seen on this trip.




I decide to walk back up onto the Tonto for a short hike above the creek where the views are more expansive. Just absorbing as much as possible of the grandeur that surrounds me is very satisfying, and I could easily spend the rest of my days immersed in the endless sweep of majestic beauty that is everywhere I look.




In this less hurried time I now have the luxury of examining some of the many wildflowers that blanket the hillsides of the plateau. It's amazing to me that a place that can appear harsh and lifeless much of the year is so vibrant with color and new life after winter rain and snow.






As shadows creep across the opposite canyon wall it's time to head back to camp, rested and ready for supper. I am tired but happy, and looking forward to a good night's sleep before the final hike out. I know tomorrow will be a long day as the trail climbs over 3500 feet to the journeys end, and I'll need every bit of strength and stamina to reach the top. For now though all I need is a hot meal and warm sleeping bag to complete my contentment.

Next:The Grandview Trail

Grand Canyon - New Hance to Grandview Part 2

Having reached the Colorado River at the bottom of Grand Canyon, there's only one place left to go..... up. Except for the short and sandy River Trail located near Phantom Ranch, there are no actual paths along the river due to the extreme geography of the Inner Canyon, and most routes end up contouring along mid-level formations such as the Tonto or Esplanade.

To continue our journey, we must first climb up to the Tonto Plateau, which makes its' first appearance in the upper end of Grand Canyon just below Hance Rapids. This "mostly" level formation lies about 1800 feet above the Colorado River, and continues west for many miles as it skirts many deep side canyons that bisect the larger Grand Canyon.


Grand Canyon hiking is hard. There are no easy trails here, but there are trails that are easier than others. The problem is the geography is so extreme that seldom do hikers enjoy anything like level walking, and the next leg of the trip is no different. Leaving the beach at Red Canyon, the start of the Tonto Trail climbs swiftly up the emerging Vishnu Schist, a super erosion resistant layer that forms the Inner Gorge. Here is the oldest rock found in Grand Canyon, dating back nearly 2 billion years.


Little grows in this hot, rocky, dry desert. What plants do manage to survive are small and scrubby, with thin leaves and waxy stems that resist evaporation. There is certainly no shade other than that offered by overhangs or strangely eroded rocks like the one seen here, and overall the visitor is left with the impression of a harsh and unforgiving land, which is certainly true for the unprepared.




However even in this land of extreme conditions beauty abounds, especially in springtime. After winter rain and snow the austere and forbidding landscape puts on a brief but memorable show as nature demonstrates that this apparently inhospitable environment is capable of supporting a surprising diversity of life.


Climbing higher out of the Inner Gorge, the upper reaches of the larger Canyon begins to reveal itself. For me hiking the Tonto is one of the best ways to see the Canyon, as it affords fantastic perspectives on the size of the place. The river flows deep below, confined in the rugged and somber Vishnu Schist while thousands of feet above loom alternating bands of shale, sandstone, and limestone. Here humans are truly dwarfed by the landscape, and it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the scale on display.


Even after climbing to the approximate elevation that finally allows for east-west travel, challenges remain. There is no such thing as a straight line between points here, and although a destination may appear to be several hundred yards away as the crow flies, hikers will have to travel miles to reach it. Sheer drop offs and deep side canyons force trails like the Tonto to contour around the head of drainages where they can be more easily negotiated.

The picture below is a good example. East is on the left side, west is on the right of the photo. From where the pack is situated, looking west across this canyon reveals the trail on the opposite side. But to get there I need to head up canyon for a mile or more before reaching the upper end where the bottom is shallow enough to cross. Such is the nature of Canyon hiking.


For someone who has never been into the depths of Grand Canyon it may seem like the hiking here is too difficult, and the whole experience is too much of an ordeal. Granted, it is hard and most people will struggle at times. But the rewards of making the trip into what is arguably the most incredible geological wonder in the world are many, and along the way majestic scenery inspires and motivates the intrepid hiker.






Hiking the Tonto trail affords expansive views in all directions, and for the most part the walking is relatively easy - as far as Canyon trails go anyway. Alternating between long contours around side canyons and crossing broad platforms covered in ubiquitous blackbrush, the trail undulates up and down at roughly the same elevation, although there are many dips in and out of countless small drainages. The miles melt away fairly quickly as you progress towards the next major side canyon.


On this trip that canyon is where we'll spend the evening. Offering a rare perennial streams at its' bottom, Hance Creek is a great place to stop and rest up for the big push out.


Coming Up: The Trail Goes Ever On