Gillespie Pass Circuit - Off to Siberia

Mountains!

On My Way

Having successfully weathered the storm and two day delay in Wellington, I arrive as planned in Queenstown.  The flight to South Island kept me glued to the window since I was seeing the so-called "Southern Alps" for the first time.  The seemingly endless mountain ranges were a siren song to me - I was ready to return to the wilderness.

Queenstown is a resort town in the Otago region, widely considered to be a major hub for many recreational activities found in the area.  I would spend one night here before traveling north to Makarora, and would return once my adventure in Mt. Aspiring National Park was completed.

Getting Around

Before I launch into my next backpack, I want elaborate on navigating both North and South Islands without a car.  When planning this month long journey, a key component was getting from Point A to Point B.  Many visitors to New Zealand elect to hire a car, or in some cases a "caravan" (self contained camper).  I considered the option, but several factors dissuaded me from choosing this route.

Going the Wong Way

First and foremost is cost.  I'm not cheap, but I generally travel solo and would bear the expense alone.  The price of fuel is high in New Zealand, and rental fees plus insurance increases the outlay significantly.  Also spending multiple nights in the backcountry meant any vehicle I was renting would sit unused for that time.

Finally there is the fact that roads here are generally narrow and winding, with drivers using the left lane.  I am sure I could have made the adjustment, but being distracted by unfamiliar customs, terrain, and signage were issues I did not want to deal with.

Instead I used a practical and robust intranational transit network called Intercity.  The system has an option called Flexipass, which allows for selecting blocks of time.  Each trip is allotted a specific duration that is deducted from the amount purchased, and time can be added if plans change.  I found the process easy - using the website or mobile app I was able to link all of my destinations together, and modify trips as needed.

Intercity uses large modern coaches which are very comfortable.  Not having to drive or be concerned about how to get where I was going made the experience much more relaxing, and I was able to spend my time enjoying the view from expansive windows, reading, napping, or whatever.  And many of the coach drivers were excellent (and sometimes quite funny) guides, sharing lots of history and other interesting information.

The Next Adventure

South Island is a different place altogether from North Island.  The landscape is significantly more mountainous, with multiple ranges stacked up along the southern and western coasts.  This is because South Island straddles a tectonic boundary between the Pacific and Australian plates.  Called the Alpine Fault, the subduction of the diving Australian plate forces land on the Pacific edge to rise, elevating and crumpling the terrain.

The abundance of peaks and high altitude environments are what led me to choose 3 of the 4 trekking routes on South Island.  I selected Gillespie Pass Circuit as one of the hikes because I could do the entire loop in 4 days, and there was an elective day hike I could attempt along the way.  And it sounded cool because I had to take a jetboat on the Wilkins River to reach the starting point.

Jetboating is a uniquely New Zealand experience - in fact the modern jetboat was invented here.  Many rivers in the lower valleys and plains are shallow, braided affairs, non-conducive to traditional outboard motors.  In 1950 an inventive fellow named Bill Hamilton needed a practical means of navigating rivers on the sheep station he was working on.  He learned of an American made model which he tried, but found still ineffective for his purpose.

Jet boats work by drawing water in and then using a nozzle at the rear of the craft to expel it.  He experimented with different configurations before coming up with the current design.  They have since evolved from an efficient way of travel into a booming tourist business.  Today thousands of visitors take trips up and down waterways at high rates of speed, skimming along in shallow water and executing hairpin turns in tight spaces.

Tuck - Mayor of Makarora

Makarora

After a quick night in Queenstown I boarded a coach for the 3 hour drive to Makarora.  It would be a mischaracterization to refer to Makarora as a town, but it does offer an airstrip, lodging, a couple of restaurants, and a petrol station.

Once I arrived, I checked in to the office of Wilkins River Jets. Other than providing people with exhilarating jetboat rides on the river, they offer scenic plane and helicopter flights over Mt. Aspiring National Park, as well as providing backcountry access to people like me.

I was the only passenger on the afternoon boat, which made sense as most people would have taken the morning ride to get an earlier start.  It really didn't matter since I was only hiking about 8 miles, and as it was summer there was plenty of daylight with enough time to get to the first hut.

Wilkins River

I did not take any pictures on the jetboat ride.  This was because once you get moving the driver of the boat wants* to show you a good time - this basically means slaloming across the river from side to side and taking the most aggressive line possible at a very high rate of speed.  Out of necessity I was holding on to the grab bar and thoroughly enjoying the experience.

*I have to admit - this guy has one of the most fun jobs I could ever imagine

Now We Walk

The jetboat delivered me several miles upstream to the start of the track.  When we arrived there was a sizable group of people waiting on the bank for a ride back to Makarora.  I gathered my things and with a big smile plastered on my face said thanks to the boat driver.  Within a few hundred yards I was alone and immersed in the peacefulness of the valley.

In a matter of minutes the track swung away from the river and onto the forested shoulder of the mountain - I was back in the bush.

Unlike my first hike in Tongariro, this track had me following a river valley for much of the duration,  eventually climbing up and over Gillespie Pass into the next valley over.  But the pass was for another day - today my destination is Siberia Hut.

The path was in reasonably good shape, and more like what I am accustomed to.  There were no boardwalks or staircases, just good old fashioned trail tread, roots, and rocks.  The canopy was dense in places but frequently opened up enough to see peaks rising around me.  As the mountains are geologically young, they rise steeply from the valley floor.

The lower elevations are primarily boreal rainforest, with lots of trees, ferns, and mosses.  The alpine environment is limited to the highest altitudes, which is low relative to where I usually hike.  At home alpine landscapes are typically found above 11,000 feet; here the southerly latitude allows for much lower presentation, around 7000 feet.

Close proximity to Antarctica and the abundance of high summits lead to frequent winter snow storms, providing meltwater in warmer months to numerous creeks and streams.  I could see and hear multiple waterfalls cascading down precipitous slopes before eventually reaching the river.

Copious water

Remnants of last winter's snow

The weather was fine, mostly cloudy but rain free.  The highest mountains played hide and seek with the occasional squall, and I could see snowfields draping the loftier peaks.  I rock hopped across many smaller streams, and my desert sensibilities were reassured to see abundant water should I need to refill my bottle.

I was doing the trek in the opposite direction of what the majority of hikers choose, and it appeared that the only other people out here had been the group on the riverbank where I was dropped off.  There was no one else on the trail.  Although there wasn't significant elevation gain, there was somewhat of an uphill component.  In sections the track became rougher with larger rocks and plenty of tree roots - a harbinger of what was to come.

Gets kind of rocky in spots

Trees grow on boulders here

If you look closely at the picture above, you'll see something on the lower right that I found everywhere I went in New Zealand - a trap.  Placed by the DOC, these snares are one way to address a pervasive problem in the country.

New Zealand is an island, and has been isolated from a continental connection for millions of years. As a result native fauna evolved without natural land predators.  This exemplified itself in a proliferation of avian species, especially flightless birds.  When European settlers arrived, they intentionally and unintentionally introduced a variety of mammals that found the local wildlife easy prey.

Thousands of traps in the backcountry

Rats, weasels, stoats, ferrets, and other carnivorous creatures have decimated the bird population, and large scale efforts have been underway for years to eliminate these invasive animals.  This is a contentious issue in part because DOC also uses poisoned baits, which some people find objectionable.  Personally I think New Zealand is right to protect their biodiversity, and I support the effort to defend native populations.

One of many things I enjoy about being outdoors in summer months is the beauty of wildflowers.  I am familiar with many North American varieties, especially those found in the western part of the country.  But we're not in Kansas anymore, are we?  I found these southern hemisphere beauties along the way.  Despite consulting a reference book listing the most common species in New Zealand I was unable to identify them.

After several hours of enjoyable walking in solitude, I sighted the valley where I would find Siberia Hut.  Local lore has it that the area received the name when an early explorer struggled so much with the terrain they decided it was as unpleasant as Siberia.  I haven't been to Siberia so I can't comment on any similarity.  Didn't seem that bad to me.

Siberia Valley

Siberia Hut at the edge of the valley 

Home Sweet Home.... For a Bit

I reach the end point of the day's hike and the warden greets me from the deck of the hut.  I gladly remove my pack and breath a sigh of relief.  It's tradition for trekkers to leave hiking shoes outside, as trails are often quite muddy.  I'm more than willing to give my hot and tired feet some fresh air, and putting on my sandals is a just reward for the effort to get here.

Another hut custom is signing in and showing the warden (if there is one) your "ticket" proving you have reserved space for the night.  There is a log book for recording your visit and ongoing intentions, which is useful to Search and Rescue if someone goes missing.  Once formalities are observed, you can pick a bunk in the dormitory and make yourself at home.

I'm here for two nights before continuing on.  One of my goals for this trek is to complete a day hike to Crucible Lake.  The warden tells me the weather has been wetter than usual and there are unbridged river crossings that could be impacted if rain is in the forecast.  She'll have an updated weather report early the next morning, and I should know then if it's wise to attempt it.  

I've already had to jump through a few hoops because of Mother Nature, so I figure I'll deal with it as it comes.  Lo que será, será - whatever will be, will be.

 

 

Weather Or Not.... Wellington

The Pacific from the hills above Wellington

A Quick Recap (or How I Got Here)

I planned my trip to New Zealand around 4 iconic hikes, taking place over the course of a month during late summer in the Southern Hemisphere.  The first of the outdoor adventures was a 4 day/3 night backpack in Tongariro National Park, located in the central part of North Island.

The Round the Mountain Track is a circuit of Mt. Ruapehu, traversing the flanks of the mountain through bush and volcanic desert ecosystems.  The terrain proved far more challenging than I anticipated, but the primary factors in my decision to abandon the hike after 3 days was deteriorating weather and the onset of a sinus infection.

After leaving the track I arrived in the town of Okahune, located at the base of the mountain.  Once I had checked into a motel and visited the pharmacy for decongestant relief, it was time to assess the next step in my journey.  The original plan called for me to travel by coach to Wellington on the southern coast, and then cross Cook Strait via interisland ferry to South Island.

Turning Lemons Into, Well You Know....

When making arrangements months in advance, I took it on faith that everything would proceed as anticipated.  But as I sat in an Ohakune hotel room watching local news, the weather forecast upended my carefully crafted plans.  The storm that chased me off the mountain was intensifying, and high winds and significant rain were now anticipated over all of North Island.  Extreme conditions were expected to lead to cancellation of all ferry sailings and domestic flights between the islands.

Having no influence on the weather, I had no choice but to accept what was and change my approach.  Essentially I would be stranded in Wellington for at least two extra days, with no way to make it to my lodging and transportation connections on South Island.

I have since learned that ferry disruptions are a major headache for residents and visitors, and weather is not the only reason ships can't cross.  Mechanical issues and failed safety inspections frequently lead to a ship being stuck in port.  When cancellations occur both cargo and people stack up, leading to further delays in being able to cross the Strait.

In five days my next backpacking outing was supposed to depart from Makarora, a hamlet in the southern region of South Island.  But first I had to get to Queenstown to make the connection.  Being large enough to offer regular air service from Wellington, I elected to schedule a flight in 3 days, hoping conditions would allow resumption of travel.  I cancelled all prior reservations, trusting the new plan would get me where I needed to be on time.

Now the question of what to do in the interim was my next concern.  Fortunately Wellington is a major city, home to a wide variety of diversions and attractions.  This post is about my unexpected time there.

Wellington 

After two rainy but recuperative days in Ohakune, I boarded a coach and traveled south.  Wellington is 1) New Zealand's third largest city, 2) the world's southernmost capital city,  and 3) is ranked as the 4th most livable city (tied with Tokyo).  Two major universities and the seat of government are primary influences on the culture.  Oh, and 4) it is also the world's windiest city, which became obvious to me while the storm was still in play.

Many young people come from around the Indo-Pacific region to study, making the city quite diverse with a youthful and surprisingly creative vibe.  I also couldn't help but notice the wide array of different cuisines, with food from around the region as well as lots of international fare represented.

I had essentially two free days before flying to Queenstown, and I decided to navigate the city on foot and by using the extensive transit system.  I needed to resupply items that were either used up or required replacement (food, rain pants and a pack cover), and that meant visiting different areas to find what I was looking for - a perfect excuse to explore.

Aside from that I had some elective time; and settled on a guided tour of Wētā Workshop, as well as a visit to one of the more impressive institutions in New Zealand - Te Papa, the National Museum.  More about these places later.

Like Auckland, walking around the Central Business District was very interesting.  The city is a primary financial hub in the region, and tall skyscrapers share street space with historic older buildings.  Wellington also serves as a major port, with cargo terminals surrounding the harbor to facilitate the import/export trade.

The city itself is situated on the southwestern coast of North Island amidst rolling but relatively steep hills.  Its location on Cook Strait and direct southern exposure makes Wellington a frequent target of storms that originate in the Roaring Forties, which explains the well deserved "windiest city" designation.  Many parks and preserves are located in and around the metropolitan area, and the maritime climate supports lush greenery.

After completing my necessary errands, I had the opportunity to see two notable attractions that Wellington offers.

Wētā Workshop 

The story of Wētā is fascinating to me.  When NZ native Peter Jackson made the fateful decision to attempt a movie adaptation of the monumental Lord of the Rings trilogy, he had to find a way to bring his vision to life.  Enter Peter's collaborator and fellow Kiwi Richard Taylor, founder of RT Productions, a small creative company that previously worked on creatures, prosthetics, and makeup for television productions.

In 1993 Peter had approached Richard about producing effects for his films Heavenly Creatures and The Frighteners.  This led to Peter joining the company which was renamed Wētā Workshop, along with the creation of a CGI effects department called Wētā Digital (Wētā is a Maori word describing a group of large arthropod insect species native to New Zealand).  These modest entities would form the homegrown backbone of one of the most ambitious film projects in history.

With a relatively limited budget, the producers of the Lord of the Rings (LOTR) movies were faced with the daunting task to design and manufacture every prop, costume (including weapons and armor), and structure for the sweeping tapestry created by author J.R.R. Tolkien.  This included all CGI special effects and miniatures to augment physical sets and landscapes.  

In a somewhat unorthodox but brilliant decision, principal filming of all three movies was completed simultaneously over the course of a year.  Every shot was made on location in New Zealand, which given the geographic diversity of the country is understandable.  Post-production would take another several years, with emphasis on large scale special effects, many of which Wētā Digital invented for the films.

Artwork commemorating Wētā in Wellington

In spite of the challenges this superlatively creative group managed something like a miracle, and the trilogy went on to become a tremendous critical and financial success. Their triumph established the divisions of Wētā as heavy hitters in the film industry.  

In the years since the release of the LOTR films, Wētā has become one of the most prominent production companies in the world.  With many Academy Awards and other cinematic prizes attesting to the quality of the work, Wētā has become a significant contributor to the Wellington economic picture.

At present most of what Wētā does takes place in far flung locations across New Zealand and other countries.  Accordingly the Workshop is a showcase, a snapshot in time displaying props, miniatures, and costumes from previous productions.  There is also an in-house armory for the production of weapons ranging from medieval to alien death rays.

The tour takes place over a few hours, with a guide sharing all kinds of insider knowledge including how certain effects are achieved, and anecdotes about behind the scenes incidents.  Overall it was interesting and certainly worthwhile.  Incidentally, the price of the tour included pickup and dropoff from the city center - this was a plus as the shuttle driver for my group was quite entertaining, providing lots of supplemental information about the city enroute to the Workshop.

I won't spoil the experience by divulging too much - I'll just share pictures of what I was allowed to photograph (unfortunately most stuff is off limits due to licensing agreements).

A Troll from The Hobbit

"I'm going to squash you into jelly..."

Turned to stone by the rising sun

One of many miniatures

A prosthetic mask of some really ugly dude

"My precioussssssss....."

Te Papa

Te Papa

When used in the context of the National Museum, the Maori words Te Papa translate to "the Treasure Box" or "Container of Treasures".  It's a very apt description of one of the most comprehensive collections of art, artifacts, specimens, and exhibits regarding Aotearoa (New Zealand).

With an emphasis on biculturalism, the Museum aims to provide a space to tell the story of Maori and European settlers whose shared home includes immense geographical and biological diversity.

Housed in a modern multistory structure in central Wellington, Te Papa is the crown jewel of New Zealand's artistic, cultural, and natural history.  With over 2 million objects in the collection, there is something for everyone here.  Free for New Zealand residents, international visitors pay a modest 35.00 (NZD) for a full day pass.

Gallipolli Exhibit

I only had part of the day to visit, and I am truly sorry I did not get to see more of what is available, but I have to admit I gave most of my attention to a truly jaw-dropping exhibit focused on New Zealand's role in the invasion of Gallipolli.  

Covering the disastrous early World War I campaign, there is substantial space devoted to the experience of Australian and New Zealand soldiers who participated in the long, grueling, and ultimately unsuccessful attempt to open another front in the war.

Part of what makes visiting an institution like Te Papa worthwhile is that something new can be presented in a way that makes you want to learn more, and that is exactly what happened to me.  The exhibit is designed to be immersive, and I found myself seeking to explore the details of what happened and why.  When I returned home I spent time on a deeper dive into the history of the invasion, and I discovered things that were previously unknown to me.

For me the most impressive part of the presentation is the inclusion of 8 large figures sculpted at 2.4 times their original size.  These portray the stories of New Zealanders and their personal experience during the brutal months long conflict.  Coincidentally, these enormous depictions were created by Wētā, taking over 24,000 hours to produce.  I attempted to capture some of the amazing detail with these photos, but like many things they are poor representations of the actual objects.

What we call PTSD was referred to then as "shell shock"

Rations were less than appetizing

On the left - see the tiny human?

The doctor's face says it all

The rage of battle

 

Meticulous detail, down to the fly

Sad news for loved ones from the front

 

The realism that Wētā achieved is astonishing, including details as fine as individual hairs on a soldiers hand.  The facial expressions alone made me believe that the figures would suddenly turn and speak.

One of the important ideas conveyed by the exhibit is the coalescing of a national identity for New Zealanders.  Although they became involved in World War I as a result of their association with the UK Commonwealth, afterwards they began to see themselves a separate and unique people.  And the casualties were not limited to descendants of settlers; Maori people fought and died alongside their countrymen.

When I finally managed to pull myself away from the Gallipolli exhibit I spent my remaining time with the natural history and environmental presentations, but honestly I could go back for at least another day to give the rest of the Museum its full due.  Next time, I promise.

After spending two unanticipated but thoroughly enjoyable days in New Zealand's capital city, the weather cleared as hoped for and I boarded a flight to Queenstown on South Island for my next destination - The Gillespie Track in Mt. Aspiring National Park.