Mt. Aspiring National Park: Gillespie Pass Circuit - Part Two

This way to Lake Crucible

My first night at Siberia Hut was enjoyable as I met other travelers who were working their way around the Gillespie Pass Circuit.  I mentioned in the first post that the majority of people do this hike in a counter clockwise fashion, mostly due to personal preferences and travel logistics.

It seems many people choose to approach the pass from Young Hut as it allows the steepest section of the hike to be completed in an uphill direction.  And to some degree the logistics of the jetboat company plays a part with more departure options available from that side.

Whichever direction is chosen many people include extra time in Siberia Valley for the attempt at day hiking to Crucible Lake, booking 2 nights at Siberia Hut for that purpose.

On the Way 

On my arrival the day before the hut warden had warned of a chance of rain, possibly making the trip dangerous if not impossible due to flash flooding on the unbridged river crossings.  Fortunately the early morning weather update forecasted only slight chances of rain, mainly later in the day.

Siberia Valley is a sea of grass, with the trail running roughly parallel to the river.  The prominence of relatively young mountains on either side is impressive, as time and erosion have yet to significantly soften the jagged peaks and ridges.

The hike to Crucible from the hut is about 9 miles round-trip, with the first couple of miles through expansive meadows.  Although little elevation is gained, walking requires attention as the ground is uneven, with sudden depressions often obscured by vegetation.

Shortly before crossing the river for the first time the trail splits, with one branch headed for the lake and the other continuing on to Gillespie Pass.  The lake trail then approaches Gillespie Stream, flowing down from the heights I will scale the following day.  After rock hopping across the water, the trail continues northwesterly to the next crossing, this time of Siberia Stream.  The channel here is wider, and there's no way to get over without either changing into water shoes or having wet feet.

I use my camp sandals to negotiate the frigid water, and continue on once I change back to my hiking shoes.  Now the trail follows Crucible Stream as it approaches the steep beech covered slope immediately to the west.

Crucible Stream

This is my second outdoor adventure in New Zealand, with the first being my attempt at Round The Mountain track on North Island. What I learned after that first hike is there is a difference between hiking I have done in other places and hiking here: Switchbacks are optional.

In thinking about it I can see why past trips have elevated my expectations.  In most previous instances creating a less severe grade via switchbacks was the sensible approach.  But in New Zealand there is definitely a "no nonsense" attitude about trails: you want to go uphill, then go uphill.  End of story.

The way to Crucible is a great example.  The stream descending from the alpine lake above tumbles down the slope through a narrow, heavily wooded gorge.  The energy and effort required to build the kind of trail I am looking for is simply not feasible.  Instead the route basically attacks the hill in a full frontal assault, no excuses.

The bush here is dense, and rather than clearing trees and shrubs for a path the trail makes use of what there is: roots.  Before the Gillespie Pass Circuit is over I will become intimate with roots, more so than I would desire.  More on that later.  For now it's using tangled anchors of beech to haul myself upwards.

I literally scramble using hands and feet through this natural jungle gym, thinking of how much fun it will be to come back this way.  The one real positive is that I'm so focused on what to grab next and which foot to wedge in what crevice that time goes by quickly, and eventually I reach an area where the terrain becomes slightly less challenging.

I should mention that the hike to Crucible gains around 3200 feet in elevation, with no small part of that coming from the all fours root route.  Once past that section there is still some climbing to do, but at least now there is something that looks like a trail.

An actual trail

This section is somewhat less arduous, but the bush is still thick with lots of smaller ups and downs as well as clambering over and through extensive root growth.  It makes for slower progress but every now and again you get a glimpse of where the trail is taking you.

Making progress

There's one final water crossing on the way up before the trail leaves the bush, and it's a little tricky because of large and slippery moss covered boulders.   I change my shoes again and slip into cold, knee deep glacial meltwater.

Once past the icy torrent of Crucible Stream, the path continues through the bush a bit longer before emerging into the basin beneath open but partly cloudy skies.

Crucible Lake is at the head of the valley

Feeling slightly less claustrophobic, I take time to observe some of the flora in the alpine meadow.  I don't recognize any of the species, but I'm not from these parts so I simply take pleasure in their beauty.

I can see the terminal moraine ahead of me at the head of the basin, and realize I'm getting close to the lake.

Almost there

The last bit is a few hundred yards of picking through a large jumble of rocks to reach the rim of the lake basin.  Once at the top you are greeted with a unique and worthwhile sight - small glacial icebergs floating in placid blue waters.

This was a first for me.  I've seen plenty of alpine lakes, and visited a few summer icefields in the lower 48.  But icebergs are certainly new to my experience.  I was inspired to fill my water bottle from the lake, and I'm pretty sure it was the cleanest water I drank on this trip.

After taking a break while admiring the vista, I decided it was time to head out as clouds were gathering on the peaks above.  As I began the trek back I couldn't help but admire the view down towards the valley I had just traveled.

The way back

The return journey was uneventful.  Having been through it I knew what to expect, and even the long traverse through the beech roots went much easier than anticipated.  Soon I was back to the floor of Siberia Valley and on my way to the cozy comforts of Siberia Hut.

I consider this hike to be fairly strenuous even as a day outing, but I can honestly say that if you pass this way you'll be sorry if you don't take advantage of the opportunity to see this unique gem.  I'm very glad I did.

Next:  Gillespie Pass and Young Hut (and more roots!)