Tongariro National Park - Round The Mountain Track

Tongariro National Park

Mt. Ruapehu

 

Before I left home, I spent a fair amount of time researching the kinds of trails and terrain I would be interested in hiking.  What I discovered is that there is really only a singular "mountainous" region on North Island, which unsurprisingly is volcanic in nature. Because my preference for backpacking favors higher altitudes, it made sense for me to focus my energy on trails in this area.  Of course those looking for hikes in a different environment have many choices, especially along coastal areas of the island.

There are multiple options for hiking in Tongariro National Park, but the most popular by far is an extended day hike known as the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.  Requiring a shuttle to complete, this strenuous track takes the hiker up and over the heart of the volcanic/alpine environment.  Another popular option is the Tongariro Northern Circuit, a multi-day trip covering even more of the area.  My choice was to do the Round The Mountain Track, which is just what it sounds like.

Because I really had no idea what to expect other than what I had read online, I envisioned this hike to be more or less a leisurely circuit of the volcanically active Mt. Ruapehu, traversing the slopes well below the summit but at a relatively high elevation.  Of course the experience turned out to be quite different, but more on that later.

Covering approximately 41 miles, the loop can be walked in either direction, but the DOC recommends studying weather forecasts carefully because a couple of unbridged river crossings occur at either the start or end of the loop, and rising water from heavy rain can render them impassable.  I chose a clockwise direction, meaning I would face the rivers at the conclusion of the hike, as there is the option of bailout routes available should conditions deteriorate.

I gave myself 4 days/3 nights to complete the route, which seemed reasonable given that would mean an average of 10 miles a day.  Unfortunately the track does not offer what is called "freedom camping", also known as camping at large, and hikers must stay at one of the designated huts along the way.  I chose to stay at Waihohonu, Mangaehuehu, and Whakapapaiti huts.  Of the 3, Waihohonu is part of the Tongariro Northern Circuit track, and it regularly fills up during peak season, so reservations in advance are essential.

A Cautionary Note: 

One other item I'd like to offer - even though all the hikes I chose for my backpacking trips have huts for accommodation, it is strongly advised by DOC to have emergency shelters (i.e., a tent) and extra food with you in the event the weather or some other unforeseen occurrence prevents you from reaching a hut - because weather here is so variable and so many of the rivers do not offer the luxury of a bridge, it is possible you may have to wait for a river to recede before being able to safely cross it.  And if you are injured to the point of being unable to self evacuate, you'd better have some way to protect yourself from the elements.

In a nutshell I carried a full pack like I would anywhere else, with extra food, shelter, and clothing for such contingencies.  As always my pack weighs a considerable amount, especially at the start of the trip.  Huts are great, but make no mistake - they only offer refuge if you can get to them. (Just a personal observation - I saw plenty of people who chose not to carry extra gear for emergencies, but I'm not that guy and I never will be).

Day One - Whakapapa to Waihohonu Hut

Maori Totem

 

I had traveled the day before from Auckland to the community of National Park, where I spent the night.  The next morning I engaged a company that provides a shuttle service to people hiking the Alpine Crossing to reach the Whakapapa Visitor Center, where the track begins.

 From the beginning the trail was exceptionally well developed, and began in what I soon learned was called the "bush", which is the Kiwi expression for a heavily wooded/vegetated environment.  I would encounter the bush on just about every hike I took, and though the trees were unfamiliar (Mountain Beech) it is essentially a temperate rain forest.

The first part of the trail led to a place called Taranaki Falls, which apparently is a fairly popular day hike as it is only a couple of miles one way, and those who want more of an outing can continue a few more miles to a place called Tama Lakes.

Bridges and well built paths

The Bush

Taranaki Falls

Once you leave Taranaki Falls the path climbs up to an open tableland with tussocks and wide open vistas of the mountain.

Yup, that looks like a volcano

I was surprised at how well developed the track was, with thousands and thousands of linear feet of wooden planking covering areas that may have been somewhat boggy or marshy - it was hard to really tell what the purpose was.  Whatever the reason I marveled at the amount of effort required to make such a sustainable path.

Along the way I passed a couple of generous streams which clearly originated on the flanks of Mt. Ruapehu.  I should mention at this point that Tongariro has the distinction of being New Zealand's first National Park, with the land being given to the Crown by the Maori people for future protection, with the understanding that all visitors must respect the sacred nature of the landscape.  This is why camping at large is not permitted, and hikers are asked to refrain from swimming in lakes and streams.

The distance to my first night's accommodation was not that far, something I would regret the next day.  Remember, I had planned the trip around averaging about 10 miles a day, and the mileage on that first day was only about 8.5 miles.  But, plans are always subject to real life, and in this case once I reached Waihohonu I could advance no further until the next morning.

Waihohonu Hut

The Waihohonu Hut is fairly new, having been constructed as a replacement for the old hut within the last few years.  As such it is large and airy, with ample space for a sizable group (28 bunks).  It has gas cooktops, tables, solar powered lights, non-flush toilets, and water.  The water comes from rain/snow falling on the metal roof which is collected in cisterns.  Supposedly it must be treated or boiled before culinary use but the hut warden told me she drank it everyday and had no issues - I guess it's up to the individual to decide what level of risk to take.

The hut warden was very welcoming and great to talk with.  She had lots of interesting things to say, and I found the experience to be the norm wherever I stayed in a hut that actually had a warden - not all of them do, mostly just the really busy ones.  So, after an enjoyable first day hiking in a foreign land I settled in for a good night's rest..... mostly.

Day Two - Waihohonu to Mangaehuehu Hut 

The next morning brought a couple of unwelcome developments.  First and foremost I woke late in the night with an unpleasant scratchiness in the back of my throat.  I have had enough experience with that particular sensation to know that it presaged a looming sinus infection, which I seem to get once or twice a year.  And not too surprising since two days before I had spent 12 hours stuck in a self contained metal tube with 300 other people breathing the driest air known to mankind.

The other shoe was that during the night a weather front had moved in, bringing a light, misting rain and grey skies, the perfect accompaniment to my now stuffy head.  But of course the show must go on, so I packed up my stuff and resumed the trek to the next destination.

Immediately after leaving Waihohonu, the character of the landscape changed dramatically, along with the nature of the the trail.  Now I was entering a stark, nearly barren volcanic desert, and what had been an exceedingly well maintained trail became a chaotic ramble through abundant stones ranging from pebbles to basketball sized rocks.

The route was now marked by a series of posts, with the top portion painted orange.  The posts were spaced in such a way that on a clear day they would be visible from the last marker you passed, but on a day when low clouds and banks of fog rolled through they would periodically vanish.  This necessitated making sure I maintained roughly the same heading, and in some cases scouting ahead to be sure I was still moving in the right direction, as no discernable trail appeared on the ground.

For a while the path stayed fairly level in terms of the terrain, but soon a series of gullies and ridges began to appear, most of which were literal scrambles up and down steep rocky slopes. I took very few pictures during the day, primarily because I was really focused on staying on trail and keeping my footing.  The image below is one of the few that illustrates the terrain I covered.  If you look closely you can see the posts marking the route - and the slope is not exaggerated in the picture.

If you like rocks, we got rocks.

I usually maintain some perspective when hiking in difficult environments, but I am not ashamed to admit there were times I really struggled.  My incipient head cold, the weather, and the fact that my forward progress was significantly diminished due to truly horrible trail conditions all combined to discourage me in a way that I generally don't experience.

By early afternoon I had covered more than half the distance, but when I reached the Rangipo Hut I was nearly ready to give up.  The terrain had proved far more difficult than I anticipated, and there were no indications it would improve ahead, especially when I saw the DOC sign indicating that it would take the average person 6 hours to travel the next 5.5 miles.

Not a helpful sign at Rangipo Hut

Fortunately the hut allowed me a place to stop for a much needed rest, and the chance to get food and water into my system.  After about 40 minutes I felt like I could make the rest of the distance, so I loaded up once more and headed out.

Down, over, and up - one of many

I'd like to say that I was rejuvenated and tackled the remaining miles with grit and determination, but in reality the remainder was just as hard if not harder, since I was already tired and the sign did not lie.  It took me just over 6 hours to struggle over the boulder and rock strewn landscape to Mangaehuehu.

There was one unusual part of the trip I had to document, when I came to a sign informing me that the next 1/2 mile was a very dangerous stretch, and that I should make all due haste to get through it as quickly as possible.

The area in question is a yet another barren, rocky river valley, but here the unmistakable sulphur stench of volcanic fumes fill the air, and the water is a muddy brown slurry.  Since the river originates near the active vent of Mt. Ruapehu, in the past it has been the conduit for multiple lahars, a violent, fast-moving mudflow or debris flow composed of a slurry of water, pyroclastic material, and rocky debris.

The channel provides evidence of past lahars

One person at a time - even then it felt sketchy 

The smell alone was enough to prompt me to move along quickly, although climbing out of the valley on the opposite side was more of the same - slow and awkward on steep, rocky and somewhat unstable inclines.  It was a relief to leave it behind. 

Eventually after lots of stops and starts and more than a few bad words directed at my own foolishness for underestimating the track, I reached Mangaehuehu Hut.  There was no one there, and I literally collapsed on the bunk and could not move for at least 30 minutes.  Unfortunately that was a mistake, because when I attempted to stand every muscle in my legs were seized with massive cramps.

It took a goodly amount of time and stretching for the cramps to subside, but once they did I was able to start a fire in the woodstove (a great feature of many huts), and distribute my thoroughly wet clothes and gear on the also amazing ceiling mounted drying rack (which can be raised or lowered as needed).  And although I kept expecting someone else to show up, I had the hut to myself for the rest of the night.

Oh, and one other unfortunate event marred my otherwise "perfect" day - repeatedly scrambling up very steep and rocky slopes caused my rain pants to split right through the crotch, and after dinner I spent a while with needle and thread attempting to repair the damage by headlamp - I managed to pull the two halves together but ended up making them so tight they eventually split again later.

All in all it was one of the least favorite hiking days I've ever had, but the bottom line is I survived to tell the story.  And most fortunately it was the only truly awful day I experienced for the duration of the trip, although New Zealand still had a few things to teach me.  And as a reward of sorts for the difficulties I encountered, I got a great sunset.  So, not all bad.

My first New Zealand sunset

Day Three - Mangaehuehu to Whakapapaiti.... Almost

I forgot to mention that just before I reached Mangaehuehu the previous day, the landscape had changed again, this time back to bush.  It doesn't really get easier, just different as the folds and flanks of the mountain necessitate climbing into and out of numerous drainages cut into the slope.  But the rocks have all but disappeared, with the terrain becoming muddier and marshier.

As a result, long stretches of planking return as I continue my journey.  In many instances they are elevated above the ground, and in places many, many steps negotiate the multiple ups and downs of the landscape.

In places the wood has gaps

And of course there are cable bridges

Steps too

Considerable effort to construct

Because the skies remained rainy as the day progressed, views beyond the immediate surroundings were practically non-existent.  I finally began to get the sense that because I am on an island deep into the Southern Hemisphere, the weather is subject frequent changes and lots more rain than I am accustomed to. The moss and lichen covering nearly every tree is ample evidence - this ain't the Colorado Plateau.

While it had been raining fairly steadily through the morning, it began to increase in intensity that afternoon.  I began to contemplate the notion that I might not be able to cross the two unbridged rivers ahead.  As such I started thinking about the next bailout opportunity and modifying my plan.

Fortunately there's a paved road up ahead that visitors use to get up onto the mountain, and it is fairly heavily trafficked in the summer months.  I decide that if the rain is still coming down when I get there I will try to get a ride down to the nearest town - my head and ears are thoroughly congested and I'd like to try and find some over the counter medicine that will unclog me.

Before I reach the road, I come to one of the places that people visit using the road - Waitonga Falls.

Waitonga Falls 

I am sadly not that interested in the side hike to the falls, mostly because now I am soaked through again, and my head is pounding with a sinus headache.  I carry on through the bush heading doggedly for the exit.

As if the mountain is trying to warn me, as soon as I reach the road and parking area for Waitonga, the skies really open up and help me confirm my strong desire to retreat to civilization.  Fortunately I only have to wait about 15 minutes in the driving rain before a downhill traveling car takes pity on me and offers me a ride to town.

So now I'm in the town of Ohakune, an unforeseen destination with my plan for completing the Round The Mountain Track brought to a halt.  It's also where the storm I didn't see coming has something to say about my immediate future plans.  It is what it is.  But for now it's off to the market to find some much needed medicine.  Coming Up - Man Proposes, Nature Disposes.

Spiderwebs capture droplets of rain