The Other Side of the World - New Zealand

 

Auckland

A Different Perspective

I have lived a fortunate life in many ways - I have access to one of the most beautiful regions on the planet, and for many years explored extensively into remote and breathtaking places that enriched my soul and inspired my mind.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I haven't seen every place on the Colorado Plateau that is worthy of visiting, but life has a way of redirecting purpose and plan.  In my case that redirection included a realization that time is slipping away, and any ideas I had about seeing other incredible places would need to become a priority.

On my list of things to do:  Visit one of the most diverse and scenic countries found anywhere - New Zealand.  I thought at one point I would like to hike Te Araroa, the 1900 mile Kiwi* version of a National Scenic trail.  This serious physical undertaking would require around 4 months of living out of my backpack, something I've done before but never in a foreign land.  After reading quite a lot about the conditions I would likely face, I decided I wasn't ready for that kind of commitment.

*New Zealanders are commonly referrred to as "Kiwis", a reference to the small flightless bird that has become a national symbol

Instead I chose a much more modest goal - spending a month in pursuit of a variety of backpacking trips, a sampler of sorts.  Now a month may sound like a good amount of time, but I have learned that it really only allowed me to get a glimpse of the possibilities.  Over the course of the next several posts I will present the hikes I did manage, and hopefully inspire others to make the journey to this truly magical place.

Getting There

The most amazing thing to me about traveling from America to New Zealand is the idea that you can board a plane in Phoenix and 14 hours later you are on the opposite side of the world.  I went in February, technically winter here in the U.S. but summer "down under".  To be fair, we didn't have much of winter in Flagstaff, and perversely the weather in Aotearoa (the Maori word for New Zealand) was distinctly un-summer like for at least part of my visit.  As a seasoned outdoor enthusiast I was prepared for whatever Nature chose to offer, but everywhere I went people talked about how unseasonably cool and rainy the season had been.

The major international airport is in Auckland, on North Island.  The country has a distinct environmental personality based on the 2 major islands that make up the landscape, and I spent time on both to try and get a sense of the geography.  More on the differences in subsequent posts.

Thoughts and Observations On Arrival

Downtown and the Sky Tower

My first impression of course was the city of Auckland itself.  With a population of nearly 2 million (close to 35% of the country's total), the city is an interesting mix of old and new.  The downtown business district has the requisite number of sleek modern skyscrapers, and surrounding areas reflect a variety of architectural styles dating back to the early to mid 1900's.  Because the country is relatively "young" by most standards, any sense of long term history truly belongs to the indigenous population, the Maori.

There is a very strong Maori influence in many aspects of New Zealand culture, quite the opposite of what we see here in the U.S.  All official aspects of Aotearoa life are presented in both English and Maori languages, and there is a greater awareness of Maori presence in everyday life.  Despite this I saw the majority of people sleeping rough (homeless) to be of Maori descent, a sign that modern life has left many of the native people behind.

A Cruise Ship at Queen's Wharf

There is also a pronounced Asian/Southeast Asian influence and presence in the city, not a surprise given the proximity to this part of the world.  It appears that not only is New Zealand a popular tourist destination, but many people from Asian countries come here to go to university and also to work.  I met many students and temporary workers who were here on various types of work visas, spending roughly 4 months doing mostly menial jobs in return for a month of leisure travel.

Prior to visiting, I had been reading as much as possible about the current state of affairs just so I would be a bit more familiar with my surroundings, and one of the most common themes is that the New Zealand economy was struggling quite a bit, especially in terms of wages and opportunities.  This has led to a significant exodus of Kiwis, mostly to Australia where jobs are more plentiful and pay is higher.  Like America, there appears to be no shortage of service related jobs, but wages in the sector are uniformly low, and most positions were held by international citizens here on work/holiday visas.

As to the landscape, there is lots of greenery in and around the city.  The major metropolitan area is situated amidst low hills and lots of open space.  Because it is a maritime climate plants and trees of many varieties (native and invasive) thrive, imparting a very pleasing aesthetic. 

Overlooking a settler cemetery in the city

Although I am not a city person, overall my impression was quite favorable.  Everyone was friendly, and I never felt unsafe walking the streets.  Getting around was easy, as the Auckland Transit system is comprehensive, affordable and timely.  And because at the time the exchange rate was currently well in favor of the dollar, most things were quite affordable.

Planning the Hikes 

New Zealand is a Pacific island nation located in proximity to the Ring Of Fire, the boundary line of tectonic plates where both seismic and volcanic events are relatively common geologic occurrences.  But as I stated earlier the two islands that comprise the country are different, particularly in one notable respect - North Island has an active volcanic region along with significant geothermal activity, which is absent on South Island.

Before I continue, I need to elaborate on a couple of things: First, although North Island doesn't have the same extremes of elevation found on South Island, by no means is the terrain gentle.  I traveled by coach through a great deal of the island and got to see firsthand lots of countryside, and and I was really impressed by the sheer hills and deep valleys found in the interior.  I understood why grazing livestock, especially sheep was a big part of the the New Zealand economy, as traditional farming looks to be nearly impossible on the steep slopes.

The second point I want to make is that New Zealanders have a well established "trekking" culture.  The country is incredibly rugged, and roads are somewhat limited, which is understandable given the inherent obstacles.  Both Maori peoples and early European settlers had to make many journeys on foot due to the unforgiving geography, and the resulting legacy is a network of paths and tracks that provide access to remote areas.  

In addition to established tracks, New Zealand offers something quite different from what I am used to: a sprawling network of huts that range from somewhat primitive to highly developed.  Another unique feature of the hiking ethos is a set of trekking routes designated as Great Walks, some of which are very popular and require long term advance booking (think Bright Angel campground or Phantom Ranch at the bottom of Grand Canyon).  I'll detail my one experience completing a Great Walk in a subsequent post.

The absolute best source for learning about these routes is the New Zealand Department of Conservation, which is roughly equivalent to the National Park Service in the U.S.  The website offers reams of helpful information about hiking in all parts of the country, including how to make bookings for the more popular hikes and huts.  There is also an incredibly helpful app for your phone or PC at Plan My Walk,  provided by the New Zealand Mountain Safety Council.  Together these two resources can provide all the necessary information for planning your adventure.

Of course, I didn't travel halfway around the world to see the city, so with all due haste I made my way to the interior of the country. Up Next: The First Backpack - Tongariro National Park