Shhhhh.... It's Edmaier's Secret

Paria River Valley

When I started this blog many years ago, my intention was to document all of the wonderful places I visited within the Colorado Plateau region.  While I was reasonably faithful at first about creating posts, it soon became apparent that producing the kind of in-depth content I prefer takes time; and as any older person can tell you time is a commodity that has a vanishingly short shelf life.

As much as I would like to just ignore everything else and sit down for a spell to catch up, I am resigned to finding a few moments here and there to hammer out a post.  So here in my latest installment I'll cover another slice of a most amazing place.

Edmaier's Secret 

I've spent a fair amount of time along the Arizona-Utah border working as a guide in the area of the Grand Staircase - Escalante and Vermilion Cliffs National Monuments.  This region was for many years unknown to the majority of visitors, most of whom are focused on the large National Parks surrounding the area - Bryce, Zion, and the North Rim of Grand Canyon.

The pandemic changed all of that, as people who had been told to stay indoors and away from crowded places discovered that being outside was an effective antidote to quarantine and isolation.  Even so the area is vast and for the most part roadless, and except for more well known features such as the Wave and White Pocket there is lots to discover without having to negotiate crowds.

One such place is Edmaier's Secret, which despite the name is really not unknown.  This large area of fins and sandstone formations is named for German photographer Bernhard Edmaier, who supposedly identified them from a small plane.  Located just outside the permit area of North Coyote Buttes (home to the Wave), reaching the area requires a relatively easy hike, although once you arrive you'll want to do some exploring which necessitates a fair bit of scrambling.

Buckskin Gulch

Also in the immediate area is Buckskin Gulch, one of the narrowest and deepest slot canyons in the southwest.  I won't cover the Gulch here as it is one of those places where you'll have lots of company, being very well known and somewhat easy to reach.  I mention it specifically because getting to Edmaier's Secret requires starting at the upper (northern) trailhead for Buckskin Gulch, located on House Rock Valley Road.  The route follows the same trail for about 2 miles before diverging from the wash that leads to the Gulch. 

From the trailhead the path drops into a shallow canyon, meandering from side to side trying to stay out of the sandy washbottom.  In spite of the overall lack of anything resembling grass, this is cattle grazing country, and browsing cows have created their own network of trails.  Not to worry though; as long as you follow the canyon bottom getting lost is unlikely.

Visually the first couple of miles is not particularly interesting, although wandering in the confines of a canyon anywhere is a fine way to spend the day.  Vegetation is typical of a high desert environment, with juniper, pinyon pine, rabbitbrush, sagebrush, and prickly pear cactus being most obvious.

You'll know you are getting close when the trail begins to parallel a barbed-wire fence, as shown in the picture above.  Shortly after this point the trail will return to the wash bottom, and a tributary drainage will appear on the left.  Follow this drainage as it approaches the sandstone ridge that rises above and to the east.  Once the wash reaches the base of the formation there is no path other than the one you choose.

Crossbedded fins

The most common feature of the Navajo Sandstone landscape is something called a "fin", which is an exposed remnant of lithified sand, representing a period of time in what used to be an Eolian sand dune desert from around 190 million years ago.  

Eolian (also spelled Aeolian) refers to the process by which wind erodes and transports material, specifically in this case grains of sand.  

Over hundreds of thousands of years wind shaped the sand into massive dunes, with silicates compacted and cemented together in discrete layers.  At the end of this geologic era the dunes were buried by thousands of feet of overlying sediment from nearby mountain ranges worn down by relentless wind, water, and time.  During this period the transformation of the sand into sandstone was completed through the process known as diagenesis.

Millions more years passed during which erosion stripped away deposited sediment, revealing the now fossilized dunes.  Once exposed the same forces began to work on the sandstone, carving and shaping the rock.  The fins exist because select layers are more resistant due to higher rates of compaction and a greater concentration of minerals bonding the grains together.  

Despite this enhanced cohesion the vestigial layers are exceptionally fragile, and great care should be exercised when walking among them.

As mentioned earlier, there is no path or specific destination.  The entire western exposure has many areas of fins, as well as other visually appealing formations.  The following images provide a sampling of what you can see if you are willing to explore.

Looking south towards North Coyote Buttes

Looking north towards Buckskin Mountain

Caprocks of slightly harder material form toadstools

Fossilized footprint of an eroded sand dune

The more time you have the more you'll discover.  While covering a fairly large area, the majority of interesting formations can be seen in about 6-8 hours.  I recommend contouring to the south, climbing higher and essentially criss-crossing the slope if you see something that piques your curiosity.  If you have the time stay until the sun starts to descend into the west - the shadows and fading light make for better pictures.

Anyway you do it you'll have uncovered another "secret" gem in a land of immense riches.

Summer "Rains" Supreme

Lazy Days

Summer meadow wildflowers

I find every season has something to cherish; Winter brings cold crisp blankets of enveloping white, with (sometimes) deep snow to smooth an otherwise challenging landscape.  Spring offers the promise of longer, warmer days with a transformation from monochromatic views to a greening world.  Fall signals the close of another year with vibrant, blazing color, intensely blue skies, and cooler temperatures.

Even though I enjoy being outdoors all year long, Summer has to be my favorite because days are longer, and spending time simply inhabiting the woods in a leisurely fashion is a gift beyond compare.

That's not to say summer does not have challenges, particularly in a warming world.  Even though I live at relatively high elevation, we are not immune from the impacts of climate change.  Anyone who has been here for many years as I have can testify that weather patterns are changing, with longer stretches of above normal temperatures and shifts in seasonal rain patterns.

Fortunately the environment is so far proving remarkably resilient, and now that summer rains have arrived so have the flowers, along with the hope we will escape a devastating wildfire season.  So aside from editorializing on what we humans are doing to our only planet, I'll move on to a more pleasant topic and showcase some of the visual pleasures I am privileged to see on my ramblings.

Author's Note: The flowers and plants shown here are found in the area north of Flagstaff called Dry Lake Hills, a range of volcanic mountains associated with the San Francisco Peaks.  These rocky, forested prominences rise to a height of 9300 feet above sea level, with average elevations between 8000 and 9000 feet.  Like most of Northern Arizona surface water is almost non-existent, with precipitation arriving principally as winter snow and daily summer thunderstorms.

Scotch Thistle

I need to be honest - it's hard to find anything positive to say about thistles.  Growing abundantly in fire scars and areas where the soil has been disturbed, the leaves and stalks sport wicked barbs that outdoor enthusiasts need to be mindful of.  Even so, the flowering plant has a few attractive looks during the blooming stage.

Mountain Agoseris

If it weren't for the distinctive color and differing leaf structure, Agoseris could easily be mistaken for a very common plant, the humble Dandelion.  This species is easy to miss as it is not widespread.

Western Evening Primrose

Starting summer hikes before sunrise allows me to witness hillsides covered in white and yellow Primrose, which blooms overnight. Later on the flowers will fold in like crumpled tissue, hiding from the heat of the day.

Lupine

Among the most common species of plant/flower in the forest, Lupine is readily identifiable by the pinnate leaves and purple blossoms arrayed on a central stalk.

Purple Locoweed

Another ubiquitous and prolific forest resident is a member of the Vetch family known as Purple Locoweed.  Reviled by ranchers, Locoweed can be toxic to grazing animals.

Rocky Mountain Iris

The Iris is also fairly common in the area.  This flower has an intricate and appealing shape but the appearance of the bloom is swift and short-lived.  By mid-summer all that's left is a slender stalk bearing the seed pod for the next generation.

Yellow Salsify

 

Salsify seed head - approx. 2.5" diameter

Salsify is not native to the Americas but was introduced from Europe or Africa.  The plant has been historically cultivated for its appearance and the edible root, and the seed head resembles that of the Dandelion family, albeit many times larger.

Indian Paintbrush

Similar to Lupine and Locoweed, Paintbrush is abundant throughout the region.  There are many different varieties; without examining the plant for specific identifying characteristics it is not known which type this is.

Sticky Geranium

Sticky Geraniums are widely distributed throughout this ecosystem.  The name "sticky" implies a theory that this species may be evolving carnivorous capabilities similar to other plants that attract and trap insects.  We'll have to check back in in a few thousand years to see if it happens.

Golden Columbine

Columbine has become more widely distributed in recent years.  Though not especially common this graceful mountain flower is easy to spot with its distinctive shape.

Blue Beardtongue

This beautiful member of the Penstemon family is fairly common in and around grassy meadows and open forest spaces.

Paper Bellflower

Another meadow loving species, Bellflower is found early to mid-summer growing amongst the grasses and forbs of open areas.

Scarlet Penstemon

Also known as Scarlet Beardtongue or Firecracker Penstemon, the vivid red color flags the visitor's attention from a distance.

Spreading Dogbane

Flowering shrubs are not abundant in the relatively arid Southwest.  Apache Plume, Cliffrose, Wild Arizona Rose, Common Raspberry, and Dogbane are among the few.

Fleabane

Sometimes also called Aspen Daisy, this delicate rayed flower is fond of sunny, open spaces.

Blue Flax

Nodding gracefully on long slender stalks, delicate Blue Flax is another meadow-loving species.

Many Flowered Stoneseed

This inconspicuous yellow flower grows well in exposed areas with rocky soil.  Growing relatively low to the ground with small blooms, it is easy to overlook.

Mountain Gentian

A relatively late bloomer, Gentian is found mostly in sun-drenched open spaces and meadows.

Santolina Villosa

This flower is quite uncommon, but I see it in a few random spots each year.  Although not showy or extravagant, it adds a nice touch of color to the surroundings.

False Springparsley

Also commonly called Mountain Parsley, this is the smallest and least showy flower in the forest.  This variety sometimes presents with an reddish-orange color.

Wild Arizona Rose

Unlike the heavily cultivated domestic Rose, the wild variety is small and not particularly impressive.  Even so, the delicate pink blossoms are unique among flowers growing in this landscape.

Dalmation Toadflax

An invasive species, Toadflax is sometimes referred to as "Eggs and Butter" given the distinct color variegation of the bloom.  This species is well established throughout the Intermountain West.

Yarrow

Found around the world, Yarrow is very adaptable and has many properties that lead to multiple uses in traditional herbal medicine.  From the Aster family, Yarrow is one of the last plants in bloom as summer wanes.

Cliffrose

As the name implies, the scent of the blossoms are highly reminiscent of Roses; I nearly always smell Cliffrose before I see it.  This woody shrub is an important plant for grazing animals that overwinter in the region, as it provides a source of food when grasses are no longer viable.

Mariposa

From the Lily family, Mariposa is an attractive white flower also referred to as Sego Lily.  Like many other plants, Mariposa has value for the edible parts of the plant and for uses in traditional herbal medicine.

Streamside Fleabane

Since surface water is so rare in Northern Arizona the name of this flower is hardly accurate.  But this small daisy-like flower grows abundantly in meadows where the last of the winter snowmelt forms shallow ponds, and the soil is slow to dry out after the surface water is gone.

Richardson's Geranium

Richardson's Geranium is not as widespread as the Sticky Geranium, and it has a slightly different presentation.  This flower is also referred to as Cranesbill and Cloudberry.

Bracken Fern

Though not a flower, no plant is more indicative of summer than Bracken Fern.  Once the snows have melted, spiral stalks begin to emerge from the brown, dessicated beds of last years growth.  Unfolding by degrees, by early summer these vivid green fronds will have reestablished lush colonies.

Vervain

Known as New Mexican Vervain or Spike Verbena, this is a fairly common flower in this environment.  The flowers are small but attractive, growing on the cone/stalk of the plant.

Graceful Cinquefoil

Many varieties of Cinquefoil can be found throughout the Mountain West.  The Graceful variety is common is grassy open spaces and meadows.

Raspberry

Ripening berries

Fire has recently impacted a significant part of the area, and one result has been the proliferation of Raspberry shrubs in burned areas.  Though many of the plants have yet to mature it seems likely there will be abundant berry crops in the coming years.

Coyote Mint

This slight purple flower is a member of the Mint family, with the characteristic aroma of the species.

Narrowleaf Four O'Clock

Another modest but attractive purple blossom is the Four O'Clock.  The name comes from the plant's practice of unfolding flowers later in the day.

Scarlet Gilia

Scarlet Gilia is comparable to Scarlet Penstemon, as both flowers exhibit the same bright red coloration which makes it easy to see.  This plant is also referred to as Skyrocket.

Manyflower Tobacco

The Latin name for this species is Nicotiana acuminata, hence the word Tobacco in the name.  This species is native to South America, but is now found in many locations.

Mullein

Mature Mullein stalk

Mullein is possibly the most successful invasive species in southwestern mountain environments.  One reason is the plant produces an overabundance of seeds, which can lay dormant for long periods awaiting the right conditions.  It thrives in disturbed soils such as burn scars and areas that have been mechanically logged.

Plains Coreopsis

This perennial yellow rayed flower is common across the globe, growing in many different environments.  The picture at the beginning of this post with the field of flowers is Coreopsis.

Carroway

I had a tough time identifying this plant, but based on a couple of different sources I'm pretty confident in labeling this one Carroway.  It grows on a long stalk which radiates into separate bracts.

Slender Mountain Sandwort

This is also an uncertain identification.  The flower is very diminutive, and similar images online don't inspire me with confidence.  Given that this is a species found at comparable altitudes and latitudes it is likely Sandwort, but I can't be 100% certain.

Bird's Foot Lotus

Another small inconspicuous flower that is difficult to photograph.  The small blooms are dispersed across the plant which generally grows close to the ground.

Peavine

Like the Bird's Foot Lotus, Peavine produces small indistinct flowers on a ground hugging plant, often amongst tall meadow grasses.  The flower has an irregular shape making it hard to photograph.

Pingue Rubberweed

I'm not sure I can say much about a plant/flower called Rubberweed.  Suffice to say it is yet another yellow rayed flower, one of many.

Tansy Aster

Another common rayed flower is the Tansy or Purple Aster.  Aster is a late bloomer, and will be more prevalent as summer comes to a close.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod is also a late summer species, and like Yarrow and Aster will be one of the last flowers "standing" as the season wanes.

The next three flowers were found on a north facing slope in an isolated area.  I had never seen them before and I did not recognize any of them.  Despite the localized presence, distribution was widespread so I'm reasonably sure they are native.

Birdbill Dayflower

Torrey's Craglily

Jack-o'-the-Rocks

ADYC

When it comes to yellow rayed flowers, even experts sometimes struggle to identify species, simply because there are so many of them.  Some are familiar like sunflowers, but in general the most common appearing type of flower in the world looks similar across species.  Hence the acronym "ADYC", which among botanists stands for "Another Damned Yellow Composite".

In attempting to provide accurate names and descriptions of some pictures here, I used a couple of different plant identification apps.  One is called Leaf Snap, and the other is Plant Net.  Leaf Snap is a commercial product, although it can be used free of charge if you don't mind watching ads each time you ask it to identify a species.  

Plant Net is a community sourced app with no ads or charges, but some species have not had many images provided by users so the database may not be as extensive.  I think they both do a reasonable job, but depending on the quality/quantity of the images provided for comparison it may be hard to be entirely certain.

Lupine and Paintbrush

While I've tried to present a reasonably thorough accounting of flowering plants and shrubs in this particular area, there will be omissions simply because not every plant grows where they can be easily seen, and not everything is in bloom simultaneously.

I am not attempting to create an exhaustive catalog - I'll leave that to PhDs and Graduate students writing the next field guide.  What I really want to share is just how appealing the forest is at this time of year.  

As I said at the outset every season has its merits, but Summer not only provides a colorful pageant of flowers, it also is gracious enough to offer the time (and usually) the weather to enjoy them.  As my Mom used to tell me when I was younger - Go outside!