tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78897689625956497782024-03-05T13:41:36.139-07:00The Road Goes Ever OnMy continuing journeys across the Colorado PlateauEric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.comBlogger116125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-1867079447672318682023-10-14T13:14:00.004-07:002023-10-16T17:26:29.341-07:00The Leaves Are Leaving!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XsbMqA4soB1NPs-Dy3bKoKLrxW8mxrZqprdsXrpkO7LL6heNuab_5NQacUNPDLl__rPuS7noEu2hBsq4SJdCoq-xm5_ty3KZTokSe3akb4zCAZayYJzPOP98M0l9M0vuA1D9D0sOWAbMPcfvzExUfOiQ5DbLv-TZ5xhbg37MIit5ySfj7C3TczvN-7g/s4624/PXL_20231013_192836288.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XsbMqA4soB1NPs-Dy3bKoKLrxW8mxrZqprdsXrpkO7LL6heNuab_5NQacUNPDLl__rPuS7noEu2hBsq4SJdCoq-xm5_ty3KZTokSe3akb4zCAZayYJzPOP98M0l9M0vuA1D9D0sOWAbMPcfvzExUfOiQ5DbLv-TZ5xhbg37MIit5ySfj7C3TczvN-7g/w150-h200/PXL_20231013_192836288.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>I was raised in the desert Southwest, a place characterized by plants adapted to hot, dry conditions. This manifests itself with shrubs, trees, and cacti that show very little change with the seasons, except for a brief "green-up" after a wet winter. Once summer settles in the landscape reverts to the dominant color palette, that of various drab shades of brown and beige dotted with clumps of pale green.<br /><p></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmX3w-akmwY1TXWKTL8sSrbExLX39-C65LXP6ared0umHqMGzMf1xHacsUHW1fxlNnVDl_LZccqHoxgeCPDi1BxJyfwbqafwCNewVF0UeZ_L8KlVd-9dwlLeW7A3uFBymdpt2LtOWSClLvYPW9arwxrlhMWXAlsXbhn7URNejIu2Em2MxOpMjSjgPYsA/s2500/PV.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1667" data-original-width="2500" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmX3w-akmwY1TXWKTL8sSrbExLX39-C65LXP6ared0umHqMGzMf1xHacsUHW1fxlNnVDl_LZccqHoxgeCPDi1BxJyfwbqafwCNewVF0UeZ_L8KlVd-9dwlLeW7A3uFBymdpt2LtOWSClLvYPW9arwxrlhMWXAlsXbhn7URNejIu2Em2MxOpMjSjgPYsA/w200-h133/PV.jpg" title="Palo Verde tree" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palo Verde tree<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Desert plants evolved to retain moisture, finding novel ways to avoid losing precious water from evaporation. One of the more common strategies involves having very small leaves, or in some cases no leaves at all. <br /><p></p><p>Cactus are one example, having all the necessary photo-synthesizing chemicals within the waxy flesh of the plant. Native trees follow suit; the <b>Palo Verde</b> (spanish for "green stick") has no leaves, with the bark and stems incorporating chlorophyll to absorb the sun's energy.<br /></p><p></p><p>Thus the arrival of "fall" to the desert meant little to me as a kid, as the only apparent change was the remission of scorching heat, shorter days, and a lower sun in the sky. I saw pictures of what autumn looks like in other parts of the world, and I could only imagine standing in a sun dappled grove of hardwood trees with blazing red, orange and yellow leaves falling gently around me.</p><p>When I got older and relocated away from the desert I finally got my wish (sort of). I've never lived in the northeast or mid-Atlantic region, nor have I had the privilege of visiting these areas during the fall, so my childhood dream remains unfulfilled, but the experience of watching leaves change in the intermountain West has been everything I could have hoped for.</p><p>I won't attempt to convince anyone that fall in these parts rivals the abundant color found in the Eastern US, but I will extol the virtues of our unique experience. What the west lacks in variety, we make up for in other ways. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBt4336mxY3UezGx4alQbypmb42jOvh-jD0ZGvsMk7-CFTZL4HT47b2IvMLbOLcHaF-rmmlPesTs4nHSWy0VyEbPHqZxtqcSnGQhkeuU9IJAAbiGDVFRUVId5r6JkZ09f9qIX1p9stCu_sAnbFdYjEavAdzUzKT_FPQ812XlYhEEnMRfACMTvtOKnTY0/s4624/PXL_20231007_155142199.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3472" data-original-width="4624" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBt4336mxY3UezGx4alQbypmb42jOvh-jD0ZGvsMk7-CFTZL4HT47b2IvMLbOLcHaF-rmmlPesTs4nHSWy0VyEbPHqZxtqcSnGQhkeuU9IJAAbiGDVFRUVId5r6JkZ09f9qIX1p9stCu_sAnbFdYjEavAdzUzKT_FPQ812XlYhEEnMRfACMTvtOKnTY0/w200-h150/PXL_20231007_155142199.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>For instance, a blazing yellow stand of Aspens set amongst dark green conifers has a very pleasing aesthetic. <p></p><p></p><p></p><p>And if you know where to look, you can find pockets of color that resemble (to a degree) landscapes of the East, with Gamble Oak and Sugar Maple displaying hues of red and orange.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCpJ_y9lvZTBpHYe654HRc_qXAZm5EnQbD9qrE7UmQfI5Y3dXW6TQZrBpxKWCZYrg0QsF0wKsIAnJY7nT5UaG18GBL6_-YxcO7wfYOZ9opPYSM-nBFJF__es1NmfuEPFGaRiVzbf4sunB4sHdGfFwFm5Z8mAIzrqG1IB7_YSQOnPDmaBMdeWbGZ7dxP8/s4080/PXL_20221031_171938218.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCpJ_y9lvZTBpHYe654HRc_qXAZm5EnQbD9qrE7UmQfI5Y3dXW6TQZrBpxKWCZYrg0QsF0wKsIAnJY7nT5UaG18GBL6_-YxcO7wfYOZ9opPYSM-nBFJF__es1NmfuEPFGaRiVzbf4sunB4sHdGfFwFm5Z8mAIzrqG1IB7_YSQOnPDmaBMdeWbGZ7dxP8/w400-h302/PXL_20221031_171938218.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A stand of Sugar Maple<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p></p><p>One intangible I feel keenly is the <i>sensation</i> of fall - the natural ebb and flow of one season into another. When late September arrives, the sun's long slow decline to the south is already well underway, with each day growing shorter by several minutes. </p><p>Flowers and grasses have gone to seed, and begin to fade from vibrant green to pale yellow and brown. The sky turns a deep cerulean blue, providing the perfect backdrop for nearly incandescent yellow leaves.</p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhbuPJtCOJ-9CAz3fGOVBzWskQeIdVzirT7LUVbV3w1-i6Axcy4a94afdcqm_zsntKIct5p8Q8kSvVCjXn-LptM-VvJfxPgPOK7ZmcBHmGJhR542KZH3aFd4Mqh9xbOFqBDtHfMoI1Qf56xMHkO4xxpnu-AVpGEBTxebUZ5YZ0z5Oi7Mf_xFNdpFpNpM/s3787/PXL_20231016_190549622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3286" data-original-width="3787" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhbuPJtCOJ-9CAz3fGOVBzWskQeIdVzirT7LUVbV3w1-i6Axcy4a94afdcqm_zsntKIct5p8Q8kSvVCjXn-LptM-VvJfxPgPOK7ZmcBHmGJhR542KZH3aFd4Mqh9xbOFqBDtHfMoI1Qf56xMHkO4xxpnu-AVpGEBTxebUZ5YZ0z5Oi7Mf_xFNdpFpNpM/w400-h348/PXL_20231016_190549622.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green turns to yellow as grasses cure<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBekfJzAx16x50d1U4R-9vO5zQYKeY4pK1H9LoK1uc39OYJXwCCxcLHyiErgC9KceMUwMAaOVWmz2OxuX3JU4KH2pEDc8qII9JV7_8-eIjhz-Y8rQNge2riQk9m1bFg7Non9SMuqB2ZLyW1YJABi9qvPnbsqTum5R04_JHEXVHBq1fDhRkFtG2OshPqY/s4056/PXL_20231016_193144658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3094" data-original-width="4056" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBekfJzAx16x50d1U4R-9vO5zQYKeY4pK1H9LoK1uc39OYJXwCCxcLHyiErgC9KceMUwMAaOVWmz2OxuX3JU4KH2pEDc8qII9JV7_8-eIjhz-Y8rQNge2riQk9m1bFg7Non9SMuqB2ZLyW1YJABi9qvPnbsqTum5R04_JHEXVHBq1fDhRkFtG2OshPqY/w400-h305/PXL_20231016_193144658.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arizona Rose<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6Kz4_4ZigyaXrcoakrKWcBx8iUjeyR4nVsNigkTLG7OocFUH_BrYfNJnNcGhpRauFEXBgi4Nure2g2DYemmyyZn5Mr3OesSiTExGZlXojVVyCihwiotxNfgu5j4oL06bnmiXh_HQnpnxGLuic3zve_knvmVc-WBrnnuuyRtmlCMRSyP2nxYbP2wvA3s/s4624/PXL_20231013_192655296.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6Kz4_4ZigyaXrcoakrKWcBx8iUjeyR4nVsNigkTLG7OocFUH_BrYfNJnNcGhpRauFEXBgi4Nure2g2DYemmyyZn5Mr3OesSiTExGZlXojVVyCihwiotxNfgu5j4oL06bnmiXh_HQnpnxGLuic3zve_knvmVc-WBrnnuuyRtmlCMRSyP2nxYbP2wvA3s/w240-h320/PXL_20231013_192655296.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bracken fern fades to silvery brown<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRWs62KsmOi5wxKaMjJ-MbvhVpB4fJ2FB6pfzs2k0O-WNHzPJ7yp7PYt-yp_cg-v-pcBVBwK9jo_b0qmcU57DNrUifUsWZrg_UV83TMc9jmGjEH7P_S4UXb39xv_R051UjVEYA5_uhkkfwXOz0QcFZ7qjnQfVgqCy7Alj2Ou9e3M1GQFqLddSuktb_Ojg/s4624/PXL_20231013_165258879.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRWs62KsmOi5wxKaMjJ-MbvhVpB4fJ2FB6pfzs2k0O-WNHzPJ7yp7PYt-yp_cg-v-pcBVBwK9jo_b0qmcU57DNrUifUsWZrg_UV83TMc9jmGjEH7P_S4UXb39xv_R051UjVEYA5_uhkkfwXOz0QcFZ7qjnQfVgqCy7Alj2Ou9e3M1GQFqLddSuktb_Ojg/w300-h400/PXL_20231013_165258879.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFQwZ3kVR9UwZ3LCcw1_Vu-HpgzkU5Z2N9H3vOsd_15a-3tCQGmwAyTvnfhI4DJ6MxU5Dc3K6mIB7rVsb5IJ2Rx8oqz7nIveqnPVdhn9GMUraMeqDPIxdU9i0L1vEq3VL6fg67XqOPwE-715P0UBRiQ2bXh5L-3ola5HzsaR9fjvytPifLYn_psanBVw/s4624/PXL_20231013_164802171.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3472" data-original-width="4624" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFQwZ3kVR9UwZ3LCcw1_Vu-HpgzkU5Z2N9H3vOsd_15a-3tCQGmwAyTvnfhI4DJ6MxU5Dc3K6mIB7rVsb5IJ2Rx8oqz7nIveqnPVdhn9GMUraMeqDPIxdU9i0L1vEq3VL6fg67XqOPwE-715P0UBRiQ2bXh5L-3ola5HzsaR9fjvytPifLYn_psanBVw/w400-h300/PXL_20231013_164802171.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Because each grove of Aspen grows from a singular root structure, the organism can live for thousands of years as long as environmental conditions allow. This also means trees of the same clone will change color at the same time, with neighboring Aspens growing from a different root complex turning earlier or later.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_PysoOX5HjqtmZ2d-G87hyphenhyphen3Mmqyavn9e3N9nOIzS3AmwFuLfHkxgie__MqJEW3oU_0Vo-BpGjPfMe51Jempezbk8CR8633E66hEjQydf08n1aIy93ET2vv43Kfis5j0VK01AcDqe4btzm1fTWYjy2IsPApjnvJ4h1KUlewA2_wgl2_xvBuhLiUa6cTHk/s4624/PXL_20231007_180122964.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3472" data-original-width="4624" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_PysoOX5HjqtmZ2d-G87hyphenhyphen3Mmqyavn9e3N9nOIzS3AmwFuLfHkxgie__MqJEW3oU_0Vo-BpGjPfMe51Jempezbk8CR8633E66hEjQydf08n1aIy93ET2vv43Kfis5j0VK01AcDqe4btzm1fTWYjy2IsPApjnvJ4h1KUlewA2_wgl2_xvBuhLiUa6cTHk/w400-h300/PXL_20231007_180122964.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aspens regenerate first on burned slopes</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg618eiQKOc3eWGJg2dw5TuI_ydH9LD6LvOV1RqCnljs0Wn53ghMzyCNiReC9rxXpDoygr3P4DzjLY99hQOeKi1DfZaD7D3l46jsXoVH1SD7lVdX8NvxZEEYoHATpHZ-fniWRpd22nDkiFfzPFHNjJg4X2uPHi7VQaQgTJOkEOt554UG-QT0GTekTaj2nU/s4624/PXL_20231016_202054409.MP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg618eiQKOc3eWGJg2dw5TuI_ydH9LD6LvOV1RqCnljs0Wn53ghMzyCNiReC9rxXpDoygr3P4DzjLY99hQOeKi1DfZaD7D3l46jsXoVH1SD7lVdX8NvxZEEYoHATpHZ-fniWRpd22nDkiFfzPFHNjJg4X2uPHi7VQaQgTJOkEOt554UG-QT0GTekTaj2nU/w300-h400/PXL_20231016_202054409.MP.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gambel Oak leaves are last to go<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQlDDmXJgMEEHlXcD0KsN3CQ1W4FqzjQdku43AOQlfF5GWHltsoVC4cetbnb2Ei36fWtV5wNb_Am4Bb4_S-RJjdjvWRr-HyyMEx75O7C433eT_UHE85culz4zjXkLSxrTLOS9M-rgT29i_MerDW6R58tVOn_VY3GovkgsMi1TwY-iIBZTO4o8MJLiAZr8/s3928/PXL_20231016_203639724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3928" data-original-width="2772" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQlDDmXJgMEEHlXcD0KsN3CQ1W4FqzjQdku43AOQlfF5GWHltsoVC4cetbnb2Ei36fWtV5wNb_Am4Bb4_S-RJjdjvWRr-HyyMEx75O7C433eT_UHE85culz4zjXkLSxrTLOS9M-rgT29i_MerDW6R58tVOn_VY3GovkgsMi1TwY-iIBZTO4o8MJLiAZr8/w283-h400/PXL_20231016_203639724.jpg" width="283" /></a></div><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAU57ltvwAJfoIQnlepclf0PS0gOfFZvQOuisNG0uPSJ86sUE55tz4ObQlkaBzXVD0mx99G2EPMfFKoaoWrKGcyY8HV-ENxD_EdIXPMeApzpj79q-YhZCIlF2qaRsiSb37bhMCs2-Gxp0LBmbGnq5mURI5CCl9OvyqmSLO0fnR8mpRqfJg_oBxF_tbL_s/s4624/PXL_20231007_165252036.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAU57ltvwAJfoIQnlepclf0PS0gOfFZvQOuisNG0uPSJ86sUE55tz4ObQlkaBzXVD0mx99G2EPMfFKoaoWrKGcyY8HV-ENxD_EdIXPMeApzpj79q-YhZCIlF2qaRsiSb37bhMCs2-Gxp0LBmbGnq5mURI5CCl9OvyqmSLO0fnR8mpRqfJg_oBxF_tbL_s/w300-h400/PXL_20231007_165252036.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn sunshine filtered through Aspen leaves<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHbUZ0KHmOdj6WwLtH_gLTCWdYVbUrxFP5ffpE1bHI1hEimQ1Qzi5Jvr5TEjAFOXj0Xauslgc8n_hGbIUL6FokGNsMYWrHAvjH3tg_CwhUo9ofC2F9iudpW99ZAfJIrazwx-AFK7qgIXP3iYN6dYAl3PlU0UV3YLD8EpDQlKOWuqOGAFSsvJDyMgQnVC0/s4624/PXL_20231015_194154843.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHbUZ0KHmOdj6WwLtH_gLTCWdYVbUrxFP5ffpE1bHI1hEimQ1Qzi5Jvr5TEjAFOXj0Xauslgc8n_hGbIUL6FokGNsMYWrHAvjH3tg_CwhUo9ofC2F9iudpW99ZAfJIrazwx-AFK7qgIXP3iYN6dYAl3PlU0UV3YLD8EpDQlKOWuqOGAFSsvJDyMgQnVC0/w300-h400/PXL_20231015_194154843.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geranium leaves add color at the ground level<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhphhY_FZlL4obIjHurY7Vg6TpuXg1TGEDzi4PsIvr_FAMiGfFbQPqGbEq0KcnnbxnIasB4gO_-zlGPvxv0Z9-99DkvVY34xG4XyeLny8FJmGIJc9Rm0h6XWIZiUSRlwH647EXekcCA9lZ72KM5iaYXzOLMznsCeZ6HEq6Hs0zmvfGLRr8Id-Ec1armUCY/s4624/PXL_20231015_184358281.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhphhY_FZlL4obIjHurY7Vg6TpuXg1TGEDzi4PsIvr_FAMiGfFbQPqGbEq0KcnnbxnIasB4gO_-zlGPvxv0Z9-99DkvVY34xG4XyeLny8FJmGIJc9Rm0h6XWIZiUSRlwH647EXekcCA9lZ72KM5iaYXzOLMznsCeZ6HEq6Hs0zmvfGLRr8Id-Ec1armUCY/w300-h400/PXL_20231015_184358281.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slender white trunks reach for the vault of sky<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HMRkdIW9YxHGXf1MIlM2invYquSPa8Vmlb68GcR_4d4ClUEIkYdMd3YjOSfiJJjw8H4W59P3q3F2WUNAbWy1Y-oG4xr9JsW6iIwy6wkkFY6UFJixnBjmkI_iq_Ljd3IGV7CmsitepQSDLuRYNGecHqWfYXpHzuCCzA73SiqGeBEkD2DN2uUI49hYooY/s4624/PXL_20231015_185510756.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HMRkdIW9YxHGXf1MIlM2invYquSPa8Vmlb68GcR_4d4ClUEIkYdMd3YjOSfiJJjw8H4W59P3q3F2WUNAbWy1Y-oG4xr9JsW6iIwy6wkkFY6UFJixnBjmkI_iq_Ljd3IGV7CmsitepQSDLuRYNGecHqWfYXpHzuCCzA73SiqGeBEkD2DN2uUI49hYooY/w300-h400/PXL_20231015_185510756.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fallen leaves carpet the forest floor<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSytnPIRYVRqJmNqDLoR0MQVPWEJ0BVMPsSDf2kFkI0Bni_Xqe_207_wJjVWi_LDGGOEhs-nH5zToFksYOwj4x0KPjDZLouJuRYsatdViiAqa_4XbsrTurEY2LE6BJViiwxrD8ggLQBXXQSv1xVw9g1Sky8o8OimwvW_z6shwKBtiy0Tiga5EGgvWtAro/s4616/PXL_20231015_201042960.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2677" data-original-width="4616" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSytnPIRYVRqJmNqDLoR0MQVPWEJ0BVMPsSDf2kFkI0Bni_Xqe_207_wJjVWi_LDGGOEhs-nH5zToFksYOwj4x0KPjDZLouJuRYsatdViiAqa_4XbsrTurEY2LE6BJViiwxrD8ggLQBXXQSv1xVw9g1Sky8o8OimwvW_z6shwKBtiy0Tiga5EGgvWtAro/w400-h233/PXL_20231015_201042960.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entire slopes blaze with color<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Though I cherish the change of seasons the end of summer is bittersweet,
even a little melancholy. I know in my head it is just part of the
larger process, but my heart already misses the soft green rustle of
Aspen leaves on a warm breeze. But winter is coming; and all of Nature
knows it.</p><p>While the color of fall is ephemeral and fleeting, I revel in it every
moment that I can. Though this year's leaves are nearly gone, I know they'll
be back, and I look forward to next spring when the buds reappear, heralding the next generation of life. </p><br /><br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-60334823386346884792023-02-26T20:56:00.118-07:002023-03-03T20:29:33.412-07:00Walking (Snowshoeing) In A Winter Wonderland<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDAlLEhJlxefKtEgwT5fjDmHJzaRKnnBsG23qeiSaiWITMsAR6JYRb99kakFWETx85rfI7Ff95Ix4wFibTG50B626-1q0C9M-4Q_2hdUJsTp9FrwKyNx9wC07xZb4Grm0xG-fQ6CgnBDtaXqM_D9vzG-P9XYpnotetveWaJqrPwJQPAbv1IYpmKpr/s4080/PXL_20230121_143658542.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDAlLEhJlxefKtEgwT5fjDmHJzaRKnnBsG23qeiSaiWITMsAR6JYRb99kakFWETx85rfI7Ff95Ix4wFibTG50B626-1q0C9M-4Q_2hdUJsTp9FrwKyNx9wC07xZb4Grm0xG-fQ6CgnBDtaXqM_D9vzG-P9XYpnotetveWaJqrPwJQPAbv1IYpmKpr/w200-h151/PXL_20230121_143658542.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Peaks from inside<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>I am soooo neglectful of my blog these days - time has become a premium where I jealously hoard every spare minute, and I still don't seem to get everything done that I had planned. So it was a pleasant surprise to learn I did not have to work today due to another blast of winter weather. Bad roads and not many people venturing out I guess.<p></p><p>Anyway I immediately knew I wanted to get outside and revel in the vestiges of the latest storm. I've lived in Flagstaff more or less consistently since 1992, and I've witnessed a depressingly high number of exceptionally dry years, so having a season where the snow falls with regularity and abundance is a real blessing.</p><p>I enjoy snowshoeing when conditions allow, and this year I have had ample opportunity to get out into the backcountry and make some tracks. One area I especially enjoy is called the Dry Lake Hills, a collection of volcanic outliers of the San Francisco Peaks that lie just north of Flagstaff, a short drive from my home.</p><p></p><p>While I was adventuring, I realized it would be relatively easy to shoot some video with my phone and share some of the experience. Probably not Oscar worthy, but certainly not a candidate for the Razzies either, at least not in my humble opinion. Anyway watch if you like, or just enjoy some of the random pictures I took.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3JudrCaXhbo" width="320" youtube-src-id="3JudrCaXhbo"></iframe></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKF6JlSqmpAgkDbagQMr6Gjnwpp8faKyLFjsQKqmXFDKWl28NfeFFY_fbNITCkSkHafuZ6E1V0dLeN1oiJZSsY02yHuWra3iOl-6zfrhvhSOoIg6cLBCCa5BCMSigLGx1GHecq9_FViB0TAUHVH5LMW0_hAbRufabCIxRdgoCeykaKHWkAX2YoGx6K/s4080/PXL_20230226_185807767.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKF6JlSqmpAgkDbagQMr6Gjnwpp8faKyLFjsQKqmXFDKWl28NfeFFY_fbNITCkSkHafuZ6E1V0dLeN1oiJZSsY02yHuWra3iOl-6zfrhvhSOoIg6cLBCCa5BCMSigLGx1GHecq9_FViB0TAUHVH5LMW0_hAbRufabCIxRdgoCeykaKHWkAX2YoGx6K/w400-h301/PXL_20230226_185807767.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The large open area at the top where the "Dry Lake" is located<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirtB-8jtgRkX5kfJZvJlB3_bOWEu4kLULDCTFedLGavJFbDVKG0AFzEbnU7NjYbMXYS42LYvWNZTj6nRfp0t7nM3MVau9L7uNEPQqyQ8H-6m9KgN_1wIc8DhX8ZQiqm_QamU1b8LrH23rqstx3OD8CuJH_mQr4xX_x3aKIjZYdYNrQs4KzlMDYN03D/s4080/PXL_20230226_195622223.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirtB-8jtgRkX5kfJZvJlB3_bOWEu4kLULDCTFedLGavJFbDVKG0AFzEbnU7NjYbMXYS42LYvWNZTj6nRfp0t7nM3MVau9L7uNEPQqyQ8H-6m9KgN_1wIc8DhX8ZQiqm_QamU1b8LrH23rqstx3OD8CuJH_mQr4xX_x3aKIjZYdYNrQs4KzlMDYN03D/w400-h301/PXL_20230226_195622223.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My route started by climbing the hill on the left<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQ3bUOgBGGIvdj5ir6XNUfDHjsMZ0dvYBkKaY90kAS91bdlHoISSPwb02z-4joHmSk7NhJOj3rvbPSwJL34KjPEt640oLnc_xV6a3VYYToaU3y9g_UFp_15LdYtnAv1ajvkwMPiPjtg-wmrLpHOJHg-HI7l-wUXwsBPa9_-iBIaCxaJh5i-bFfQcc/s4080/PXL_20230226_181735962.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQ3bUOgBGGIvdj5ir6XNUfDHjsMZ0dvYBkKaY90kAS91bdlHoISSPwb02z-4joHmSk7NhJOj3rvbPSwJL34KjPEt640oLnc_xV6a3VYYToaU3y9g_UFp_15LdYtnAv1ajvkwMPiPjtg-wmrLpHOJHg-HI7l-wUXwsBPa9_-iBIaCxaJh5i-bFfQcc/w400-h301/PXL_20230226_181735962.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is there anybody out there? (Nope)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><b>But Wait... There's More!</b></p><p>Barely a week after I posted this, Flagstaff received yet another storm, this one dropping anywhere from 26 to 30" of<b> </b>new snow, bring the total (as of March 2nd) for the season to 142 inches - making the winter of 2022/23 the second snowiest since official record keeping began 101 years ago.</p><p>Of course I could not wait to get back outside and decided to document the adventure more completely. I actually tried to get out during the storm but strong wind and the threat of being crushed by falling fire-killed snags made me rethink the attempt, and when the storm began to clear the next day off I went. So here in six parts is my vlog of the outing - don't worry, this one features the actual environment instead of my handsome mug, so you might actually see something worthwhile.</p><p> </p><p><b>The Start Of A Beautiful Day</b> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/728klCXyoxM" width="320" youtube-src-id="728klCXyoxM"></iframe></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>The Easy Part Is Over</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6XKqjX4LGmI" width="320" youtube-src-id="6XKqjX4LGmI"></iframe></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>The Ravine</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qQzk7vRXOBc" width="320" youtube-src-id="qQzk7vRXOBc"></iframe></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Just Over Halfway</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wDARbl6qdNY" width="320" youtube-src-id="wDARbl6qdNY"></iframe></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Getting Close Now</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3Q0V7XaXzaQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="3Q0V7XaXzaQ"></iframe></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>The Top!</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/47fzlRi97fc" width="320" youtube-src-id="47fzlRi97fc"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p></p><br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-41437055763891095522022-11-13T13:55:00.160-07:002022-11-30T10:31:00.553-07:00If You Could Die From A Broken Heart.....<p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-K_UUi032OS6D5KiuYtyxviTtermCOwpVPAhWIKiksGYFgJRiDSUAjd8DFYAFJ3nkXRErOAmzDqATyMYwatQ6F7imSvKLydoIzDA8IJ8IXv9xuFTegCqtI9Rop8izZLzNFIyKd9ErIWQklPRUHombGML7ESD3Ev2XL-HrE5-A1dMdWAXv3Beo9Rvn/s899/IMG_0257%20(3).JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="814" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-K_UUi032OS6D5KiuYtyxviTtermCOwpVPAhWIKiksGYFgJRiDSUAjd8DFYAFJ3nkXRErOAmzDqATyMYwatQ6F7imSvKLydoIzDA8IJ8IXv9xuFTegCqtI9Rop8izZLzNFIyKd9ErIWQklPRUHombGML7ESD3Ev2XL-HrE5-A1dMdWAXv3Beo9Rvn/w181-h200/IMG_0257%20(3).JPG" width="181" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wyatt 2011 - 2022<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: small;">I've used this blog <a href="https://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/03/grief-is-not-bottomless-well.html" target="_blank">once before</a> to note an event of great personal sadness, when I lost my two husky/malamute companions in 2011. Although not specifically related to the travels I've documented here they were there for many of the adventures, and their absence made remembering these trips a bittersweet memory.</span><p><span style="font-size: small;">So here I am, 11 years later once again processing profound grief due to having to say goodbye to the best dog I've ever known. It's an unfortunate truth that the choice to share your life with a canine companion means that you will inevitably have to watch them die, but the time we are given is such an amazing gift it is almost worth the price.<b><span> </span></b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Wyatt</span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>After the death of the "girls" (what I used to call them) in the spring of 2011, I vowed I was done with having a dog, mostly because of the anguish their passing left on my heart. I've had dogs in my life almost continuously since I was a child, and the cycle of raising, loving, and eventually losing a beloved friend had become more than I could bear.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>I was true to my word, at least for a while. For only the second time time in my life I had no dog, and in many ways the freedom was liberating. If you have owned a dog, you might know that many places are not "dog friendly" due to regulation or environmental challenges, and in the months that followed I took advantage of the fact that I had no such encumbrance to worry about. There were of course moments along the way where I missed the companionship a dog can give, but I did not dwell on the absence.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>When fall arrived and my travels came to an end, a little voice in my head suggested that maybe I should consider another dog. At first I was able to dismiss the idea - although the grief of the girls deaths had subsided, I still remembered all too well the horrible choice I had faced not once but twice when the time came to end the suffering of my friends.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>But the voice kept chiseling away at my resolve, and by January of 2012 I had decided to sign up with a Malamute rescue group. I was in no hurry to adopt a new dog, but I rationalized that if one became available in the future I at least would have the option. I imagined it would take a while, since the adoption coordinator initially told me there were no dogs available to adopt at the time, and I was just fine with that.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span></span></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoorICv-vtK-qRjL93Y0Tpn_2WRETsKyZ-p6rSpk0gatIWa08o0CkcK5aos8hKxm0vP_YrdkmnkS0YRVqUbUcXg5y3RhZfx8max2epCUtSe0W5DGtDNqR4wYVafXWwpMO9m_1G1WYaUea-oE-d7qeLzk1495YH0mUM5x6hpZojZjqFM6JS3ppBDIi/s420/Wyatt%252520001.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="411" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoorICv-vtK-qRjL93Y0Tpn_2WRETsKyZ-p6rSpk0gatIWa08o0CkcK5aos8hKxm0vP_YrdkmnkS0YRVqUbUcXg5y3RhZfx8max2epCUtSe0W5DGtDNqR4wYVafXWwpMO9m_1G1WYaUea-oE-d7qeLzk1495YH0mUM5x6hpZojZjqFM6JS3ppBDIi/w196-h200/Wyatt%252520001.jpg" width="196" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">First look: Wyatt at 2 months<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: small;"><span>Barely a week had passed since my application when I received an email from the coordinator. She told me that although no Malamutes were yet available, they had something else. The picture says it all.</span></span><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>The email also contained information about his origins. The story is </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">he was turned over to the Arizona Humane Society. The person surrendering him found him as a stray, and had him for ten days before deciding not to keep him.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">The Humane Society identified him as a Wolf/Hybrid mix, and because of liability involved with this breed could not offer him to the general population for adoption. They reached out to wolf dog rescue groups to see if they could place him. They set a deadline of Friday to find an organization to take him - if no suitable taker could be found, he was to be euthanized.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">I don't necessarily believe in fate or destiny, but I do know that in some way the stars aligned in this case. A big-hearted wolf dog rescue operator stepped forward to save this unbelievably adorable little guy from an undeserved end. Although he was already at capacity, he found room in his home to take Wyatt. He wanted to keep him, but he already had too many commitments to make it practical. Using his network of connections he put the word out that Wyatt was available for adoption, and that's where I came in.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">I might have hesitated for a second or two when I saw the picture. Not because I did not want him, but because I knew immediately that making the decision would start the clock on this ultimate conclusion: the grief of once again losing something you gave your heart to in the fullest. Despite that momentary misgiving, I told the coordinator I was interested</span>.</p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The BEST dog in the world</span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>The beginning of our relationship was odd. I had to go to Phoenix (where he was found) to pick him up. He had been transferred to another wolf dog rescue center because of space limitations with his original rescuer, and when I arrived I found Wyatt in a pen playing with a group of much smaller puppies. As he had been passed around a few times before he met me I'm not sure he appreciated who I was or what was happening, but I loaded him up in a crate and put him in the car. I was told by the operator of the rescue organization that she had noticed Wyatt was uncomfortable traveling in a vehicle, which manifested itself by uncontrolled drooling. She was right.</span></span></p><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MF99jZCkU1SYFt1iePouCgbz_DeU8V0MGrTzRwv9dc1LL56Osc8gmyhP-R0gOlzpwcCZmQBNyLXHWf5xDOJezW9ESHv8C_juj1QjtqVj0CL6_mNMcSunBPPtIeTJymruhc2Hehxm7_-P2TEbAHKw1kWyzPfmEmsh8HkvxKFRZfG-iRVxg7zqBV8g/s2592/IMG_0007.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MF99jZCkU1SYFt1iePouCgbz_DeU8V0MGrTzRwv9dc1LL56Osc8gmyhP-R0gOlzpwcCZmQBNyLXHWf5xDOJezW9ESHv8C_juj1QjtqVj0CL6_mNMcSunBPPtIeTJymruhc2Hehxm7_-P2TEbAHKw1kWyzPfmEmsh8HkvxKFRZfG-iRVxg7zqBV8g/w200-h150/IMG_0007.JPG" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pandora and Wyatt<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: small;"><span><span><span>When I returned home to Flagstaff, Wyatt was greeted by my roommate's relatively new dogs - Pandora and Roadie. They were also rescues and were still young. Because Roadie had a few personality issues as well as congenital vision problems, it was Pandora who immediately took to Wyatt in his new home.</span></span><br /></span></span><p><span style="font-size: small;">For the first few months I was somewhat apprehensive about what I had gotten myself into. I had done extensive reading about wolf dogs, and knew that if the percentage of wolf vs. dog was high enough, I could be in for some significant behavioral challenges. As time went on however it became apparent that my fears were unjustified, although he did exhibit some odd characteristics I did not initially understand.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">I spend a a lot of time outdoors, being enamored of hiking and recreational travel. I wanted a dog precisely for that reason, and Wyatt evolved into what I can only describe as the most well mannered and best behaved dog I have ever seen. For starters, his housebreaking was practically non-existent. He was crate trained, and he never protested going into his "den" when prompted. He did not cry at night like some puppies. He was very reserved towards me at first, as though he were waiting to see if this was actually going to be his forever home.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">Initially I started walking him in the woods near the house, at first on leash because I did want him chasing any wildlife we might encounter. Within an astonishingly short time I was able to turn him loose, something that was always a challenge with his predecessors. He had almost no interest in taking off when the random deer or elk crossed our path, although he tried (unsuccessfully) to catch a few squirrels.<br /></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmFFLKo0jbcjXGD3vuZj4RHIXCXceurDmOJrtDOP_ElovnJzxW9WrdYN7peVWr4bt4K1Ir7hZMcKMaxqXLke6gEgUCk22vswbppTIpcSV3K0uOl5_2a4PYcjbwZXoQgPAJ4MLAIzSLYXJKxyqg1yhxQ-bXMgE4O6Y2X8131gJ9q0XMeC62-ZMr0Dss/s3648/IMG_747.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="3648" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmFFLKo0jbcjXGD3vuZj4RHIXCXceurDmOJrtDOP_ElovnJzxW9WrdYN7peVWr4bt4K1Ir7hZMcKMaxqXLke6gEgUCk22vswbppTIpcSV3K0uOl5_2a4PYcjbwZXoQgPAJ4MLAIzSLYXJKxyqg1yhxQ-bXMgE4O6Y2X8131gJ9q0XMeC62-ZMr0Dss/w200-h150/IMG_747.JPG" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Wyatt at 4 months<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><p></p><p>During that first winter, his coat was short but dense, and the resemblance to a wolf is undeniable. But as he grew something very odd happened - he became a woolly mammoth. For the rest of his life, his fur was unbelievably dense, as though he lived north of the Arctic Circle. Like most dogs of a northern origin (huskies and malamutes) he had a thick undercoat, which is supposed to disappear when summer arrives. Although he did shed the undercoat, it seemed like it was always later than it should have been, leading him to pant consistently through the warmer months .</p><p>His discomfort with traveling in cars persisted well into his first year. It was always wise to have a thick towel at hand to soak up the massive amounts of drool. Fortunately as time went on it slowly became less of an issue, eventually disappearing altogether. This was fortunate, as we were to travel throughout the western U.S. over the next 6 years.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3jBrdw68-ruqDfqG0f2Cj6EfWyXyKehsQzNjExmNk7E3fS8zrGMdwC76l0b8DIYTCjz3ZhSyGB8GGRYTvB6N6wy_Ri6DeaQfTw67RJWbQ9TXj_RzLQv8ZB4acwQ1bszTGfxFcySidkR8u4FlYA_6CXJekXaKN7bQAsE96U_eCtYeELV7oPjGWvlh/s4000/IMG_0257%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3jBrdw68-ruqDfqG0f2Cj6EfWyXyKehsQzNjExmNk7E3fS8zrGMdwC76l0b8DIYTCjz3ZhSyGB8GGRYTvB6N6wy_Ri6DeaQfTw67RJWbQ9TXj_RzLQv8ZB4acwQ1bszTGfxFcySidkR8u4FlYA_6CXJekXaKN7bQAsE96U_eCtYeELV7oPjGWvlh/s320/IMG_0257%20(2).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wyatt in his winter glory<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">We took many trips until 2017, and would have probably taken more had I not suffered the loss of my truck and camper when we were run off the road by someone passing illegally. Ironically we were on our way home from Colorado where we had just spent 10 days exploring the mountains.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">The vehicle I ultimately purchased to replace my full size truck was somewhat cramped for Wyatt, and this dampened his enthusiasm for long distance travel. Even so we still managed to hike extensively in the local area, but the crash effectively marked the end of any extended adventures.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">Despite his size (well over 125 lbs.) Wyatt was the gentlest and least aggressive dog I have ever known. This was fortunate because he was so big, and had he been even enthusiastically affectionate he could have been a menace. On the contrary he was always very wary of people, going out of his way to avoid strangers. This may have been due to whatever he experienced before he was rescued, or it may have been just a quirk of his personality.</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2ijn0Vv6tAnyzGk7QDCoXvOKEG6I1j_LUejKjprE3XbLW8lues6gWVkU2bh6qN5PpfQzimv56wME8e9WDN--3ALwe4P0ZjMjBmUpBIjKdLbJvHVrDLjCXbTMyB7lKoymEeJ8N4ny_taYuSnyI4TOQc5GC1jA7TixE7g5VIRiA2UOBy_UQgFm-3tv/s2319/IMG_2228.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1572" data-original-width="2319" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2ijn0Vv6tAnyzGk7QDCoXvOKEG6I1j_LUejKjprE3XbLW8lues6gWVkU2bh6qN5PpfQzimv56wME8e9WDN--3ALwe4P0ZjMjBmUpBIjKdLbJvHVrDLjCXbTMyB7lKoymEeJ8N4ny_taYuSnyI4TOQc5GC1jA7TixE7g5VIRiA2UOBy_UQgFm-3tv/s320/IMG_2228.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 130 lb. baby<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: small;">Another unusual trait was his penchant for playing with rocks. Yes, I said rocks. I once knew a guy who had a dog who liked to chew rocks, with the unfortunate end result of prematurely wearing down his teeth. Thankfully Wyatt's fascination with rocks was limited to rolling them down the hill and chasing them. Watch the following video for a demonstration:</span> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7Cdbayw5nmU" width="320" youtube-src-id="7Cdbayw5nmU"></iframe></div> <p></p><p>I worked in the winter sports business for many years, and on occasion we would go to the ski slopes in the evening to hike. He had a strong aversion to anyone on skis, frequently running great distances to avoid them. This was particularly obvious the year I moved to New Mexico to work at a resort there. The home we lived in had a view of the slopes, and anytime he was outside in the yard it was obvious that the people on skis and snowboards made him nervous, even though they were some distance away.</p><p></p><p>Another odd tendency he would display occurred when we would visit the Dog Park. Whenever a strange man (usually with a hat) would approach, Wyatt would bark at him incessantly as though he had some reason to dislike men in hats. Again, possibly a result of earlier experiences. Otherwise Wyatt liked the other dogs and was never aggressive, but was especially fond of female huskies. It's funny that although he was neutered he always tried to hump any willing participant.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUN0om102_bbVQkIZLCJlIiXQyouABpA5plVgfmdYqU62td4w19jsd8oezXQJaMGboNo1Ci5QGzFD8IRtW5reeZ7EcXjav18I9F6wJFw-Oty0ZLXAHLSHts0JOaK8q96SFuelvZ9VGXpgA24VcZdS4Rx2fuF0_acSm2TOPlc74XYHDmXvEZbb8QOm3/s4160/KIMG0029.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="2340" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUN0om102_bbVQkIZLCJlIiXQyouABpA5plVgfmdYqU62td4w19jsd8oezXQJaMGboNo1Ci5QGzFD8IRtW5reeZ7EcXjav18I9F6wJFw-Oty0ZLXAHLSHts0JOaK8q96SFuelvZ9VGXpgA24VcZdS4Rx2fuF0_acSm2TOPlc74XYHDmXvEZbb8QOm3/w113-h200/KIMG0029.JPG" width="113" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wyatt on Mt. Elden 2019<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Time passes all too quickly. We all experience the sensation of wondering how so many years could have gone by without our realizing it, and with dogs their limited lifespan makes the interval seem even shorter. By 2019 going for long and difficult hikes became mostly a thing of the past, as the physical effort became more apparent on Wyatt's aging body. I reluctantly stopped asking him to accompany me, opting instead for shorter and easier walks in the forest around the house. <p></p><p>This pattern would continue pretty much uninterrupted right up until the end. In my heart I knew the day would come when even the easy walks would stop, and then I imagined it would just be a matter of time before he was gone. I tried to be honest with myself in facing the inevitable, and I even imagined what it it would be like when I no longer had him in my life. The truth is that nothing can really prepare you for the sense of loss, absence, and loneliness that follows.</p><p>Last year Wyatt had a small mass on his back that I suspected was a lipoma, a fatty tumor that frequently occurs in dogs as they age. We took him to the vet to have it excised, and during the examination the doctor also discovered a much more serious growth on his tongue, a dreaded hemangiosarcoma. After removal the vet cautioned us that although she thought she had gotten it all Wyatt could still develop other tumors, as this aggressive form of cancer often targets internal organs.</p><p>With cautious optimism we returned to the established routine, and up until very recently all seemed reasonably normal. But in the last few months both my roommate and I had started seeing things with Wyatt's overall presentation that while not overtly alarming presaged the possibility that something was maybe not quite right. </p><p>While some may wonder if I should have taken him to the vet for some kind of intervention, the outcome would have likely been surgery which may or may not have prolonged his life. In a dog of his size and age the most likely scenario is a few extra months with the additional consideration of pain and prolonged recovery from any procedure. With that in mind I chose to let nature take its course.<br /></p><p>Because of the hemangiosarcoma discovery, during this last year I suspected that one morning I would find Wyatt's lifeless body on the deck, having passed away in his sleep. I should have known better, as no dog I have ever owned has had the decency to spare me the decision of whether to end their life. </p><p>When the end came it was sudden and abrupt. I had gone to Phoenix to help my mother for a couple of days. Just before I left Wyatt had begun limping, slightly at first then much more pronounced. My roommate who has always looked after Wyatt when I have been absent for one reason or another agreed to keep an eye on him and let me know if things got worse. As it happened his mobility rapidly deteriorated further, and before I could return home he had lost all ability to stand.</p><p>I came home as quickly as I could to find him sprawled awkwardly on the floor, whimpering in pain. I had asked my roommate to administer oral pain medication while I was gone, but whatever was causing his suffering was obviously more profound than what the drug could control. At first I just sat with him, telling him how sorry I was he was in pain, and that I loved him.</p><p>We could not move him, as he would not stand, and every effort only resulted in causing him more pain. We had already made an appointment with the vet for that afternoon, but realized there was no way to get him there. My roommate tried to find any local veterinarian who would come to the house, but no one was willing. We were desperate when finally someone suggested a doctor who was relatively new to the area. After leaving a message on his voicemail, we waited for an answer.</p><p>After what seemed like an eternity the doctor called and somewhat reluctantly agreed to come to the house that afternoon. While it was not the best possible outcome it was the only way forward, and I stayed with Wyatt for the next 3 hours, doing whatever I could to comfort him. It was obvious he was in terrible discomfort, and it was heart wrenching to see him suffering. I promised him that his pain would not last much longer, knowing full well what that probably meant.</p><p>When the doctor arrived, he took a few minutes to assess the situation. I knew what he would say, and the rest happened with the unstoppable force of a speeding locomotive. Within 30 minutes Wyatt was gone.</p><p>The last couple of days have been unbelievably surreal. My head knows that my beloved dog is gone because I buried his body in the backyard that very afternoon. But as is the case with an environment that is rich in memory and experience, I look around fully expecting to see him on the couch, or on the deck, or in the kitchen at dinnertime. The daily walks in the woods will never happen again, and I can't express how sad that makes me. This house is too quiet.<br /></p><p>Wyatt was a gentle soul who I loved with all of my being. Words alone cannot convey what he meant to me, and the love, affection, and devotion he gave were beyond my ability to describe. The time I was given is a gift beyond compare, one that I know I'll never have again. Eventually the hurt will fade, but right now I am raw with emotion, and righteously angry that I live in a world where I am required to end the life of the most amazing companion anyone could ever ask for.</p><p>I've told myself once again that I will never make this choice for another dog. I also know that this is just the way it is - when we agree to open our hearts to a dog we are living on borrowed time. </p><p><b>Goodbye my furry friend</b>. <b>Thank you for trusting in me. You were such a good boy, and I will always love you.</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtyu1BYLIuycZkG9ecTnVyrwzH5jBO3gaWtOqLJDHcAj0FWRfL3Y91_UycE2nydUq4Wuk8A8prJljZdmAm_OtRo0REgK6fvoSE-qeR0TUBZ0URstDcfjIrarshOnEfRB0T-DMGfVTExtbR7qeBvYHvVSyWjeNsuHbo_K-e-5y32AHW0O7TaMNGqxpY/s2046/IMG_2210-COLLAGE.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2046" data-original-width="2046" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtyu1BYLIuycZkG9ecTnVyrwzH5jBO3gaWtOqLJDHcAj0FWRfL3Y91_UycE2nydUq4Wuk8A8prJljZdmAm_OtRo0REgK6fvoSE-qeR0TUBZ0URstDcfjIrarshOnEfRB0T-DMGfVTExtbR7qeBvYHvVSyWjeNsuHbo_K-e-5y32AHW0O7TaMNGqxpY/w640-h640/IMG_2210-COLLAGE.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></p><br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-68692403255054922312017-04-28T19:11:00.000-07:002017-04-30T14:46:49.205-07:00The BIG (Mostly) Yellow Rock<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W-g-Dvwj1iA/WQLHmE_M7PI/AAAAAAAAWL8/s2p7Hu4RsUwKexGkYTd60xh-EFN3pLXewCPcB/s1600/IMG_3833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W-g-Dvwj1iA/WQLHmE_M7PI/AAAAAAAAWL8/s2p7Hu4RsUwKexGkYTd60xh-EFN3pLXewCPcB/s320/IMG_3833.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
When I first heard of the place called <b>Yellow Rock</b>, I was not expecting to find a massive sandstone monolith rising from an already spectacular formation known as the <b>Cockscomb</b> (which in geologically correct terms is called the <a href="http://archive.li.suu.edu/docs/ms130/AR/tindall1.pdf" target="_blank"><b>East Kaibab Monocline</b></a>).<br />
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Located in what is arguably one of the most diverse and scenic landscapes on the <b>Colorado Plateau</b>, the Cockscomb is a textbook illustration of various faults, folds, and uplifts that interrupt the normally "tranquil" sequence of sedimentary layers found throughout the region.<br />
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Yellow Rock is a singular manifestation of Navajo sandstone, nearly 1/2 miles across and several hundred feet in elevation. While mostly yellowish in hue, the stone is striped and swirled with multiple shades of red, purple, orange, and white. The "staining" of the rock by chemicals such as iron and manganese does not always follow the bedding plane of the rock, resulting in wonderfully abstract patterns.<br />
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While not as popular (yet) as other nearby places such as <b>White Pocket</b> or the <a href="https://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2015/03/the-wave-rave.html" target="_blank"><b>Wave</b></a>, more photographers and slickrock enthusiasts are making their way to this relatively remote landmark for pictures and exploration. In my humble opinion, there is more to see in this one area than either of the aforementioned locations, and there are certainly less hassles (no permits or difficult drives through deep sand) to get here. Having said that, there is some effort involved.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v04ro4NIuFA/WQPgor7gwhI/AAAAAAAAWNc/21iFXNTd7OoNWzR7y_N0UHThpn4WRitMwCPcB/s1600/IMG_3711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v04ro4NIuFA/WQPgor7gwhI/AAAAAAAAWNc/21iFXNTd7OoNWzR7y_N0UHThpn4WRitMwCPcB/s320/IMG_3711.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cottonwood Canyon and the Cockscomb</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I won't give specific driving instructions here, since there are guidebooks and online resources that provide detailed information. I will say that making the trip involves traveling the fairly well known <a href="https://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2009/07/cottonwood-canyon-heart-of-gsenm.html" target="_blank"><b>Cottonwood Canyon Road</b></a>, one of only three routes bisecting the <b>Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument.</b><br />
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This 46 mile dirt road is usually maintained, although conditions can vary greatly from season to season, and I'll repeat my frequent refrain about NEVER using a Utah backroad when rain or snow is in the forecast. Check current conditions with one of several <a href="https://www.blm.gov/nlcs_web/sites/ut/st/en/prog/nlcs_new/GSENM_NM/grand_staircase-escalante1.html" target="_blank"><b>BLM</b></a> field offices located around the Monument before heading out.<br />
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Anyone visiting the area needs to be aware of environmental hazards, specifically weather. Summer
temperatures regularly approach and sometimes exceed 100 degrees, and water is
scarce. Thunderstorms are common from July to September, and lightning
can be a significant threat along the higher terrain.<br />
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Flash floods can happen without warning, and rock near the edge is
frequently fragile and unstable. Cell phones almost never work out here
- this is truly wilderness, and help can be hours away if something
happens. Be prepared for the unexpected, and use appropriate caution.<br />
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Once you are on the road, park your vehicle at the <b>Brigham Plains</b> road junction. If you are planning on spending the night there are a few excellent camping spots just up the road to the east, around 1/4 mile or so.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qmNQx0eqenM/WQLHp1ie5HI/AAAAAAAAWL8/jNCEdviPboop8VKwcfNoIVucJy1cQ3-FgCPcB/s1600/IMG_3843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qmNQx0eqenM/WQLHp1ie5HI/AAAAAAAAWL8/jNCEdviPboop8VKwcfNoIVucJy1cQ3-FgCPcB/s320/IMG_3843.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brigham Plains road marker</td></tr>
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When you're ready, walk directly across the road to the west to find a faint trail heading for <b>Cottonwood Wash</b>. There are several different paths as people pick their own way through the brush, but basically head for the wash and find a place to cross the very shallow stream.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ykohJhkBR6g/WQLFTj4RikI/AAAAAAAAWL8/s16tiDlz-sMOrvQBAcfBlDD9tF5sUuoDwCPcB/s1600/IMG_3716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ykohJhkBR6g/WQLFTj4RikI/AAAAAAAAWL8/s16tiDlz-sMOrvQBAcfBlDD9tF5sUuoDwCPcB/s320/IMG_3716.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west towards the Cockscomb from the road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OhEDwZuvIpc/WQLFWyJVumI/AAAAAAAAWL8/WI-y0yrIFk8WCZ62c6FwRYNoUqmB5J8BQCPcB/s1600/IMG_3717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OhEDwZuvIpc/WQLFWyJVumI/AAAAAAAAWL8/WI-y0yrIFk8WCZ62c6FwRYNoUqmB5J8BQCPcB/s320/IMG_3717.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cottonwood Wash</td></tr>
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Once across the wash, look for a shallow canyon in the Cockscomb - it's the first one due south of the <b>Lower Hackberry Canyon</b> opening. By now a more defined trail appears heading into the canyon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BA1LIVn6Mts/WQLFZnHlQLI/AAAAAAAAWL8/DHUaoAd4rQUYAqEc7Jt-hwfih5jJivF4wCPcB/s1600/IMG_3718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BA1LIVn6Mts/WQLFZnHlQLI/AAAAAAAAWL8/DHUaoAd4rQUYAqEc7Jt-hwfih5jJivF4wCPcB/s320/IMG_3718.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning of Yellow Rock trail</td></tr>
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The path quickly begins a steep ascent of the slope to the right (north). Wasting no time and not bothering with such refined constructions techniques like switchbacks, the trail climbs quickly to a narrow ridge connecting the outer canyon wall to the rim.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3e31xEtBJ5c/WQLFcV-ZVDI/AAAAAAAAWL8/8OkdqG9l82obQmkVaY3srg9EnekPNMHaQCPcB/s1600/IMG_3719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3e31xEtBJ5c/WQLFcV-ZVDI/AAAAAAAAWL8/8OkdqG9l82obQmkVaY3srg9EnekPNMHaQCPcB/s320/IMG_3719.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up and more up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9eJHe03QKzA/WQLFhw8WkbI/AAAAAAAAWL8/zq_sWPPHLAw41z5T6drJsi9MTwJ22-KFwCPcB/s1600/IMG_3722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9eJHe03QKzA/WQLFhw8WkbI/AAAAAAAAWL8/zq_sWPPHLAw41z5T6drJsi9MTwJ22-KFwCPcB/s320/IMG_3722.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The good news is that the views more than compensate for the strenuous effort required to reach this point. Take a few minutes to look across the valley, and soak in the panorama stretching to the north and south.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lH_6H1nIlMc/WQLFkOY4s4I/AAAAAAAAWL8/F-lTnwctVh0K3K4mGZzCWBxUDEgCJIZ3gCPcB/s1600/IMG_3723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lH_6H1nIlMc/WQLFkOY4s4I/AAAAAAAAWL8/F-lTnwctVh0K3K4mGZzCWBxUDEgCJIZ3gCPcB/s320/IMG_3723.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brigham Plains road climbs steeply up the east rim </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VhJn7o2CObc/WQLFmv0hQ4I/AAAAAAAAWL8/dw2TvijlPSsvr-6pFaUm0XygqIKdMD08wCPcB/s1600/IMG_3724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VhJn7o2CObc/WQLFmv0hQ4I/AAAAAAAAWL8/dw2TvijlPSsvr-6pFaUm0XygqIKdMD08wCPcB/s320/IMG_3724.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking north</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IiyRyAbasr4/WQLFpGU5AgI/AAAAAAAAWL8/AP0fP6dBLfwvjDuhMMtMG14ltnp_e3TJQCPcB/s1600/IMG_3725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IiyRyAbasr4/WQLFpGU5AgI/AAAAAAAAWL8/AP0fP6dBLfwvjDuhMMtMG14ltnp_e3TJQCPcB/s320/IMG_3725.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and to the south</td></tr>
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The trail heads west, and the bulk of Yellow Rock soon appears over the horizon. Cairns mark the path over slickrock sections, while the way is obvious through sand and soil areas.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OMxWEZ-HVaI/WQLFsp-hOGI/AAAAAAAAWL8/aMZr32uWR_UXhqw5n3sN5MHpQt8fvrFLACPcB/s1600/IMG_3729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OMxWEZ-HVaI/WQLFsp-hOGI/AAAAAAAAWL8/aMZr32uWR_UXhqw5n3sN5MHpQt8fvrFLACPcB/s320/IMG_3729.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail to Yellow Rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pSj7N0fno34/WQLFvJASOfI/AAAAAAAAWL8/3ghojub7eewXF5NtOx9hkXKCWMgY0xRcQCPcB/s1600/IMG_3730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pSj7N0fno34/WQLFvJASOfI/AAAAAAAAWL8/3ghojub7eewXF5NtOx9hkXKCWMgY0xRcQCPcB/s320/IMG_3730.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow Rock is not the only interesting formation</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coWAU6nfRsc/WQLFq0ZcwPI/AAAAAAAAWL8/0MyHQeGhk4YYvBrNAOTmEMXL-9dWZmJ4QCPcB/s1600/IMG_3728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coWAU6nfRsc/WQLFq0ZcwPI/AAAAAAAAWL8/0MyHQeGhk4YYvBrNAOTmEMXL-9dWZmJ4QCPcB/s320/IMG_3728.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cliffrose perfumes the air with heavenly scents</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Altogether the hike out to Yellow Rock is about a mile, with the most challenging section being the swift climb at the beginning. Once you reach the base, there is no trail, just unlimited slickrock scrambling.<br />
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Yellow Rock is larger than it first appears, and of course is fairly high as well. Pick a line that allows you to explore the different features while climbing to the summit. You'll probably want at least an hour or two to check out the various aspects and angles found all over the rock. Here are some pictures of my visit:<br />
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The views from the top of Yellow Rock are pretty amazing as well. One well known feature on the northern horizon is <b>Castle Rock</b>, a pinnacled dome of white Navajo sandstone. Just on the northern edge of Yellow Rock you'll spot Lower Hackberry Canyon, where a nearly 20 mile long crevasse cuts into the Cockscomb.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AxYozuHMAoU/WQLGH1vl9ZI/AAAAAAAAWL8/emh0Cc7RpC8Iw9OCP8exd74FjHLqI36owCPcB/s1600/IMG_3748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AxYozuHMAoU/WQLGH1vl9ZI/AAAAAAAAWL8/emh0Cc7RpC8Iw9OCP8exd74FjHLqI36owCPcB/s320/IMG_3748.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle Rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The southern end of Hackberry Canyon</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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To the south another canyon leads to the <b>Paria Box</b>, where the muddy and sluggish <b>Paria River</b> cuts through the Cockscomb.<br />
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After discovering the wonders of Yellow Rock proper, take some extra time and detour south towards the canyon there. With some scrambling and off trail route finding there is much more to see. Some examples:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turtle Rock?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Artist used the full palette here</td></tr>
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While Yellow Rock may be the main attraction, in half a day of wandering I found more unusual and striking rock formations in a relatively small area than just about anywhere else I've seen. And I have so much more I want to see on subsequent visits that I may have to live another 50 years to make it happen. I'm working on it.Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-63180512018205886342017-04-16T12:46:00.000-07:002017-04-16T12:54:16.054-07:00The Sand Hills - Not Just Another Pretty Place<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Although there is growing recognition of the features contained within and around the <b>Vermilion Cliffs National Monument</b>, most people simply overlook the area as a whole because it is large, remote, and can be difficult to access.<br />
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Additionally, the few relatively well known places (<b>The Wave and South Coyote Buttes</b>) receive the majority of the attention but are subject to strict limitations on the number of daily visitors.<br />
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But what most people miss is literally the big picture. <b>The Paria Plateau (aka the Sand Hills)</b> is big, and has a variety of beautiful and seldom seen sandstone formations scattered throughout the area. The challenge of course is having a suitable vehicle to reach more isolated sections, and then having the time, ability, and desire to explore large ridges and bluffs on foot to discover these hidden gems.<br />
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The pictures here are from a day trip to an area known as <b>Kid Pen Valley</b>, named in reference to the early pioneer days when Mormon ranchers brought goats to the Plateau to graze on the semi-arid desert shrubs and grasses. I spent several hours walking around a single outcropping of <b>Navajo sandstone</b>, and barely saw the half of it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock pillars exist in abundance</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toadstools resulting from preferential erosion</td></tr>
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Cross bedded sandstone twisted by soft sediment deformation and striking forms created by preferential erosion dominate the landscape. Vibrant reddish orange colors resulting from iron and manganese saturated water percolating down through the sediments provide contrast and color, adding another dimension to the scene.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross bedded sandstone captures ancient dunes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mineral rich waters seeped into sand layers from prehistoric seas</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moki marbles and iron rich concretions surround hardy plant life</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miniature arch</td></tr>
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Getting permits to visit the Wave and South Coyote Buttes is difficult at best, but there are countless other alternatives available with comparable scenery. Of course driving in the Sand Hills requires an appropriate vehicle and a willingness to explore off the beaten path. For me that in and of itself is really what it's all about anyway.Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-60683853513473131882016-11-16T21:13:00.000-07:002016-11-16T22:20:41.685-07:00Havasupai - Paradise Lost?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Land of Blue Green Waters</b><br />
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Ask people for a "bucket list" of things they want to see and it's likely a fair number of them will mention the turquoise blue waters of <b>Havasupai Falls.</b><br />
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Because of countless pictures of this idyllic paradise found in travel magazines and the internet, the waterfalls found in this tributary of Grand Canyon have become one of the most recognized scenic wonders in the western U.S.<br />
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Accordingly this well deserved reputation as a must see destination has led to a dramatic increase in visitation in recent years. Like many popular attractions, demand has exceeded the carrying capacity of what is essentially a finite space.<br />
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This post will offer a look at not only the iconic landscape but a few of the challenges that surround getting to see it. <br />
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<b>The Havasupai ("Havasu 'Baaja") People</b><br />
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For nearly 800 years the Havasupai people have called the <b>Cataract Canyon</b> region of the Grand Canyon their home. As hunters, foragers, and farmers the people lived on the rim and in the canyons as seasons changed, ranging over a wide area.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By James, George Wharton</td></tr>
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Like most native tribes, the arrival of white settlers in the 19th century meant being displaced from their territory. In the 1880's all but 518 acres of land was usurped by Federal decree, leaving the small band of natives with only a limited area along Havasu Creek. Through hard fought litigation from mid-century into 1975 the tribe gradually regained control of 185,000 acres of land in and around the west rim of Grand Canyon.<br />
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Today nearly 650 people live and work in and around Havasu Canyon, with an emphasis on tourism surrounding the scenic environment.<br />
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<b>Havasu (Cataract) Canyon</b><br />
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Havasu (also sometimes called Cataract) Creek is a tributary of the Colorado River and begins as a trickle on the south side of Grand Canyon. It flows for nearly 50 miles to the north before entering Havasu Canyon where it is supplemented by <b>Havasu Springs</b>, which flows year-round.<br />
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Because of dissolved calcium carbonate minerals, the water appears bluish or turquoise colored in the canyon bottom. The calcium laden water also forms deposits known as travertine, leading to terraces and pools associated with major waterfalls along the creek.<br />
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The Cataract Creek drainage is the second largest tributary system on the south side of Grand Canyon, with a network of many smaller canyons that collect rainwater and snowmelt from a large area. Consequently Havasu Canyon and the creek are subjected to large and relatively frequent floods during the summer thunderstorm season.<br />
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<b>Getting There</b><br />
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All visits to Havasu Canyon begin at<b> <a href="https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/supai_map.pdf" target="_blank">Hualapai Hilltop</a> </b>- a remote location that offers no services other than a starting point for the journey. The village of <b>Supai</b> (tribal headquarters) is located in Havasu Canyon, 8 miles in and 2000 feet below the rim.<br />
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To get there you can do as the vast majority do and make the trek on foot. Alternatively you can try securing a seat on a helicopter flying from the Hilltop, or hiring a horse to take you and your belongings into the canyon. <br />
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<b>Permits</b> <br />
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All visitors must secure a permit from the tribe before visiting, a process that has become <a href="http://www.azcentral.com/story/news/local/arizona-best-reads/2016/05/22/nearly-impossible-get-permit-havasupai-falls-heres-why/84462922/?from=global&sessionKey=&autologin=" target="_blank">so difficult</a> for the average person that it is the subject of media articles and internet discussions. As pictures of the incredible scenery have circulated widely on the web, the popularity of the falls has increased exponentially.<br />
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As a result when reservation phone lines (no web bookings) are opened up in February for the coming year, those seeking permits can expect constant busy signals and disappointment as permits for peak seasons (March - October) go quickly.<br />
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If you are successful in securing a permit, expect to pay $40.00 as the entry fee, with a charge of $17.00 per person per night for camping. As most people spend 3 days to make the trip on foot, that means a visit will cost around $74.00 per person.<br />
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<b>The Hike</b><br />
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To see the waterfalls and pools of blue green water, be prepared as a hiker to make a challenging journey. From Hualapai Hilltop to the campground it is 10 miles and 2200 feet of vertical descent in what is primarily a hot, dry desert environment.<br />
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Once you reach the creek at 6 miles you'll have water and shade, but prior to that you'll be hiking in a canyon with limited cover and summer temperatures that linger at or above 100 degrees.<br />
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If you can make arrangements to do the trip in spring or fall that will help, but colder weather can mean limitations on desires and abilities to play in the water.<br />
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If your trip occurs during the warmer months, you can mitigate some of the unpleasantness by not hiking during the hottest part of the day, i.e. starting before sunrise. Temperatures usually peak around noon to 4 p.m., and begin to decline as the sun disappears behind canyon walls.<br />
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Another key to a successful hike is to stay hydrated and eat plenty of snacks to maintain electrolyte balance. It may also be desirable for some to hire a horse to pack in camping gear, thus lightening the load on the hike.<br />
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All visitors should be aware that summer is also the season for flooding. Thunderstorms occurring generally from July to September can produce significant rain upstream - it is possible to experience floods even if skies above the main canyon are clear. As mentioned earlier the Havasu Canyon watershed is very large, and storms anywhere in the drainage are reason enough to be on alert.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning of the trail</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hualapai Canyon</td></tr>
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The hike begins with a moderate descent of the canyon rim, dropping 1000 feet into Hualapai Canyon in just about a mile.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switchbacks into Hualapai Canyon</td></tr>
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On this section in particular hikers will want to be watching for pack animals used by the tribe to transport gear and supplies into the canyon.<br />
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Unlike Grand Canyon trail mules used in the National Park, these animals are usually not tethered together and they travel at a faster clip. They also sometimes have very large, bulky coolers or packs which take up a great deal of width, and inattentive hikers could be pushed off the trail or injured in a collision.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Untethered pack animals</td></tr>
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Once the trail reaches the canyon bottom, the next few miles feature a relatively uninteresting walk in a broad sandy wash. Little to no shade will be found along the way, and it won't be uncommon to share the trail with other hikers and pack animals.<br />
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The further downstream one goes, the more scenic the surroundings become. At first modest walls of sandstone begin to climb above the dry streambed, eventually reaching several hundred feet high.<br />
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Additionally the wash bottom becomes narrower - this is definitely where you want to be sure of a good weather forecast.<br />
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At around the 6 mile mark, large cottonwood trees and other riparian vegetation mark the junction of Hualapai Canyon with Havasu Canyon. Here is where the warm (usually around 72 degrees), bluish waters of Havasu Creek flow year round, providing people and animals with a necessary resource.<br />
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Soon afterwards, the nearly level trail reaches the village of Supai, home of the tribe and seat of Havasupai government. It is here that visitors must register with the Tourist Office.<br />
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Anyone who comes here should recognize that all outsiders are guests of the Havasupai, and should behave accordingly. The tribe has its' own government and rules, and operates as a sovereign entity. Please respect the privacy of tribe members, and remember that people who live here tolerate the hundreds of thousands of tourists in order to generate vital revenue for the tribe.<br />
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There is a lodge in the village that offers accomodations if camping is not your thing. Supai also has a variety of other services including a small market and emergency clinic. To reach the campground you must follow the trail another 2 miles into the canyon.<br />
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Along the way you'll come to the first waterfall at about 1.25 miles - <b>Upper</b> <b>and Lower Navajo Falls. </b>Prior to 2008, there was only one set of falls at this location, but flash flooding rerouted the creek and created 2 sets of cascades. The main falls here are roughly 50 feet high.<br />
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At 1.5 miles the trail passes by the third set of falls - <b>Havasu Falls. </b>Consisting of a single plume falling 100 feet into a travertine pool, Havasu Falls is one of the easiest accessed and more scenic attractions in the canyon.<br />
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The campground is 1/2 mile beyond Havasu Falls. Sites are primitive, with a few outhouses and spring fed sources of potable water. Continue hiking through the campground for an additional .25 of a mile and you will arrive at <b>Mooney Falls</b>, named for a white miner who plunged to his death in 1882.<br />
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Although easy to view from above, the approach to the base of the 200 foot falls is challenging, especially for anyone with a fear of heights. Climbing down a steep and rugged cliff is required, and the rock face is often slippery from mist coming off the falls. Although chains, ladders and handholds exist it's a precarious slope, with the added challenge of traffic moving in both directions.<br />
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The pool at the base of Mooney Falls is the largest of the three upper features, so getting to the base is definitely worthwhile.<b></b><br />
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It's possible to continue downstream all the way to the Colorado River by hiking an additional 8 miles. The trail is often faint and rugged and requires multiple crossings of the creek. About 4 miles downstream of Mooney Falls you will reach the last of the 5 falls in the canyon - <b>Beaver Falls</b>.<br />
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Most visitors only get to the 4 uppermost falls, and few ever make the complete round trip to the Colorado River and back due to the distance and difficulty involved. Still ambitious hikers with multiple days can make the journey and visit more remote parts of Havasu Canyon.<br />
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My most recent visit was in June of 2016, and my overall impression was less than favorable. Despite the beautiful natural setting I experienced crowding and congestion at both Mooney and Havasu Falls, and finding solitude and quiet was nearly impossible in the upper canyon.<br />
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There was significant amounts of litter along the trail, from both visitors and tribal members. And given the cost of fees for entry and the size of the campground, it's hard to believe the tribe is not generating enough money to make much needed improvements to water, sanitation, and other campground infrastructure.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting sun rays above canyon walls</td></tr>
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It is too bad that such spectacular natural features become victims of their own inherent beauty, and that providing access to such grandeur for the masses means diluting or in some cases eliminating much of what makes a place worthwhile. While it's true that nothing diminishes the natural character of the waterfalls, it is sad to witness the commercialization of the canyon. <br />
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Of course what often makes a place special is the challenge of reaching it, and the unique character of the environment. Havasu Creek and the now famous waterfalls certainly fit that criteria - Just don't expect to have it all to yourself. Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-3720267913580598142016-05-29T14:05:00.001-07:002016-11-16T21:39:18.534-07:00Get to the Point!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powell Point - 10,188 feet</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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If the Colorado Plateau has a heart, it's probably located near one of the most recognizable landmarks in the region - <b>Powell Point. </b>As the prominent and highly visible face of the highest step in the <b>Grand Staircase</b>, the feature referred to by locals as "<b>Pink Point</b>" towers over the surrounding landscape.<br />
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Powell Point is part of the <b>Aquarius Plateau</b>, the highest such landform in North America, where the uppermost elevations exceed 11,000 feet above sea level. At the southernmost extension where the Point is found the heights are slightly more modest at just over 10,000 feet.<br />
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Before continuing, I would like to mention that you can visit the Point itself and experience truly incredible views of a vast area extending west, south, and east. In fact during summer months it is possible to drive (with an appropriate vehicle) on unimproved roads to within 3/4 of a mile of the Point, then hike on a moderate trail to the edge of the plateau.<br />
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The rest of the year depending on snowfall it may even be possible to hike a strenuous 2 mile trail to the top of the plateau and then ski or snowshoe another 2.75 miles out to the Point, but that story is for another time. This post focuses on another equally delightful aspect of the Point - just being in proximity to it.<br />
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<b>Stump Springs Trailhead (aka The Under the Point Trail)</b><br />
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Most of the region around and atop the plateau is located in the <a href="http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/dixie/recreation/camping-cabins/recarea/?recid=24976&actid=29" target="_blank">Escalante Ranger District of the Dixie National Forest</a>.<b> </b>A great place to begin a visit to this beautiful region is at the <a href="http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/grand_staircase-escalante/Recreation/visitor_centers/Escalante_Interagency_Visitor_Center.html" target="_blank">Interagency Visitor Center</a> on Highway 12 just outside <b>Escalante, Utah</b>.<br />
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This cooperative enterprise among multiple federal offices has a great deal of information about the many things to do on public lands all throughout the area, and can provide maps, trail guides, and current road condition updates (very important on Utah backroads!).<br />
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During many trips to the area over the years, I had driven by the Forest Service sign pointing out the<b> Stump Springs</b> trailhead - mostly because the name itself did nothing to inspire me to check it out, and there were many other places to see that clamored for my attention.<br />
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On a recent visit I found myself seeking to expand my horizons and dropped by the Escalante Visitor Center for additional ideas. There I was given a map of the district showing several possibilities for hiking. This led to my discovering a very cool and appealing trail known as <b>Under the Point</b> (previously disguised by the somewhat obscure name of Stump Springs).<br />
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Using a series of well maintained Forest Service roads getting there is straightforward. At the end I found a large parking area with some information kiosks, and no one else around.<br />
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The trail departs the parking area heading directly for the Point with outstanding panoramas of the towering cliffs right out of the box.<br />
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The elevation here is relatively high, and the vegetation is a mix of <b>ponderosa pine</b>, <b>subalpine fir</b> and <b>spruce</b>, and low growing clumps of <b>manzanita</b>. The best time of year to hike would be the warmer summer months, and milder spring and fall seasons. During my visit in late May I actually experienced brief snow showers, but by and large it was extremely pleasant.<br />
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The Under the Point trail can be hiked as a simple "in and out" excursion, or for those with more time be done in conjunction with a series of trails to make a long loop hike. To basically go as far the junction with the <b>Henderson Canyon Trail</b> is 4 miles each way, and this would likely be sufficient for most people.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Map of trails in the area</td></tr>
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If you want a simple explanation of what this trail is all about, the name says it all - the path basically contours beneath the sheer
walls of the plateau edge, traversing undulating terrain for several
miles in a general northwest/southeast direction.<br />
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But don't be fooled - even though the trail does not ascend the cliffs, there are some fairly significant ups and downs. This is of course only natural since the route stays near the base of the cliffs, negotiating broad alluvial fans of sedimentary debris that have accumulated over time.<br />
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The rock here is fairly young from a geologic perspective. Sixty million years ago a large inland lake accumulated deposits of limestone, shale, sandstone, and conglomerate. When the uplift of the region occurred these layers were elevated above the surrounding terrain, and a variety of forces have since been sculpting the formations.<br />
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As part of the uplift process, large vertical fractures appeared in the rock. These cracks allow water to penetrate, and through the action of dissolution (weak carbonic acids), freeze/thaw cycles, and preferential erosion the rock weathers into the spires and hoodoos for which the <b>Claron Formation</b> is famous.<br />
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The color of the rock layers is dependent primarily on iron and iron oxide content. The uppermost layers (the White element of the Claron) have little to no iron, while subsequent levels have greater degrees of, well, rust.<br />
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Regardless of the process, there is something really magical about pillars of stone shaped into many weirdly wonderful forms, and so richly colored in hues of white, pink, red, and orange.<br />
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Across to the west is the ultimate manifestation of this magnificent
erosion - <b>Bryce Canyon</b> carved into the eastern flanks of the
<b>Paunsagunt Plateau</b>.<br />
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Here are some great examples of conglomerate - a sedimentary rock that has many inclusions of rounded gravels. Note the layers of sandstone in conjunction with the conglomerate.<br />
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The trail itself is not difficult, with the exception of the aforementioned ups and downs. The path is easy to follow, and although there are some spots which present a challenge, overall the hiking is easy to moderate.<br />
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One spot that does merit mentioning occurs early on in the hike. As the trail winds around the cliffs, there are outcrops of different geological layers. Most are stable and easy to negotiate (although may be challenging when muddy) but one in particular is especially nasty when wet, and not that much fun when dry. Combine that with many small ravines which plunge off the steeper terrain above and you've got an obstacle.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Channel cutting across the trail into shale layer</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup of the shale and trail crossing</td></tr>
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This section has a deep channel cut through a shale layer, and the trail all but disappears as this easily eroded material washes away with each cycle of rain/snow. If dry, crossing requires some scrambling as the ravine has gotten fairly deep, and climbing the bank on the opposite side can be a challenge since the soil is very soft and loose. If wet, well good luck.<br />
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Once past that section the rest of the way is relatively easy.<br />
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The trail climbs gradually to a ridge, then descends into a valley on the other side. If you don't have a lot of time it's best to turn around at the top of the ridge. For a longer outing you can continue to the Henderson Canyon junction or go even farther if so desired. Once you reach the valley floor there are several large drainages to cross, some of which may have flowing water.<br />
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The views are somewhat less spectacular on the north side of the ridge, but as far as I'm concerned any day spent outdoors in the forest is a good day.<br />
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On this outing the turnaround point is the trail junction at 4 miles in. Going back includes a vigorous climb to the ridge, but the scenery is just as good going as it was coming. Here is a look from the ridge to the west and <b>Mt. Dutton</b>.<br />
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For me Powell Point is more than a landmark. From it's lofty perch it is visible over an amazingly large area, and I can be many miles away and still see it. It's a beacon of beauty, one that tells me I am right where I want to be - in the heart of all that I hold dear.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powell Point from Cottonwood Canyon Road</td></tr>
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<br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-54241952740738227902015-03-14T02:40:00.008-07:002021-10-19T11:37:34.870-07:00Lee's Ferry and the Spencer Trail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In the year 2015, the average American lives in a world of modern conveniences unimaginable to people of the late 1800's. For instance, take the automobile and all of the attendant infrastructure that is associated with it, particularly the highways and bridges spanning the vast western landscape.<br />
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In our climate controlled vehicles we speed through arid and broken terrain without giving much thought to what it was like to negotiate a dry wash, a muddy plain, or to cross a river with a wagon and team of horses. In the span of a few generations we have gone from giving heartfelt thanks for the ability to make 10 grueling miles a day to wondering why it takes so long to get anywhere, even at 70 miles per hour.<br />
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I often reflect on this and many of the other challenges faced by the unbelievably hardy folks who came to the region in the latter half of the 19th century. A good place to come face to face with their reality is at <a href="http://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/lees-ferry.htm" target="_blank">Lee's Ferry</a> along the banks of the <b>Colorado River</b>. This isolated but incredibly important geographic location played a major role in establishing towns and cities to the south and east, and today is still one of only two places to cross the River for nearly 300 miles.<br />
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<b>The Mormons</b><br />
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No single group of pioneers had more impact on the region than the members of the <b>Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (LDS)</b>. After fleeing west in great numbers to avoid religious persecution in 1846, the emigrants arrived in the area of the <b>Great Salt Lake</b> and began establishing a new society that quickly expanded to surrounding areas. Under the direction of church leadership groups of settlers were dispatched to all points of the compass to begin colonization of what was considered "unsettled" territory, although in most cases native peoples already inhabited much of the land.<br />
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Despite relatively harsh environmental conditions found in the southern region, LDS families faithfully heeded the call to wrest a living from the earth in whatever place a supply of water was available. Communities were founded along what is today the Arizona - Utah border, with plans to push into northeastern Arizona and the <b>Little Colorado River Valley</b>. One significant obstacle to this mission was the resistance of <b>Navajo</b> and <b>Ute</b> peoples who already called the region home.<br />
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Conflicts between Mormons and native peoples were fairly common in the early years, however leaders of the church were intent on continuing their expansion to the south and east. In 1864 noted Mormon pioneer and scout<b> Jacob Hamblin</b> led an expedition to northeastern Arizona in a heavy handed attempt to intimidate tribal leaders, hoping to prevent further raids and harassment of the newly arrived homesteaders. <br />
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Travel in the region in the latter half of the 1800's was challenging at best, especially given the extreme vertical topography that characterizes much of the country. A particularly vexing problem was finding a route where it's possible to reach the Colorado River from both sides. <br />
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Hamblin had found just such a place in 1858 where the the <b>Paria River</b> joins the Colorado. Only in this spot did canyon walls lower enough to make an approach, and Hamblin realized early on that an outpost and ferry here would permit access into the Arizona Territory. In 1864 he and the members of his delegation to the Navajos proved that point when they built a raft to transport themselves and their horses safely to the other side.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John D. Lee</td></tr>
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<b>John D. Lee</b><br />
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In 1870 Hamblin led another party into the region. This group included LDS President <b>Brigham Young</b>, <b>Major John Wesley Powell</b>, and excommunicated Mormon leader <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_D._Lee" target="_blank">John D. Lee</a>. The most significant outcome from this gathering was a decision by Young to establish a ferry at the river with the directive that Lee should be the one to make it happen.<br />
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At this point John Lee was a fugitive from federal authorities for his alleged involvement in the <a href="http://mountainmeadowsmassacre.com/" target="_blank">Mountain Meadows Massacre</a> in 1857, and he welcomed the opportunity as a way to stay out of sight.<br />
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John Lee's story is fascinating long before he arrives at the ferry that bears his name. An early member of the LDS church and friend to founder <b>Joseph Smith</b>, Lee was a prominent figure in the early history of the Mormon church. Although his role in establishing and operating the ferry on the Colorado River is a major milestone in opening up the territory, it is only one of many accomplishments in his lifetime.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lonely Dell Ranch today</td></tr>
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<b>Lonely Dell Ranch</b> <br />
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During an early visit to the area Jacob Hamblin had observed how fertile the land could be if properly watered. He laid out where he felt a farm should be built including digging the first irrigation ditch to deliver water.<br />
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Hamblin also realized how isolated the area was, and is credited with being the first to refer to the site as <b>Lonely Dell</b>.<br />
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In late 1871 Lee moved his family (including two of his nineteen wives)
to the mouth of the Paria and began the work assigned to him by Young. Upon arriving at the desolate spot Emma Lee is said to have exclaimed "oh, what a lonely dell", perhaps echoing what Jacob Hamblin had declared several years before. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paria River</td></tr>
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Building an earthen dam across the Paria, Lee planted crops as well as an orchard in order to feed his family. Unfortunately, the structures were inherently weak and repeatedly failed during floods, necessitating constant repair and rebuilding. Irrigation channels often choked with silty mud after high flows in the Paria, and mucking them out was a neverending task.<br />
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Conditions at Lonely Dell were harsh despite relatively easy access to water. At an elevation of 3200 feet, summer temperatures regularly exceed 100 degrees, and in winter can drop well below freezing. The climate is dry and dusty, with average rainfall of just over 6 inches, much of that often coming all at once in sudden thunderstorms.<br />
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High flows on the Colorado also presented a danger to the ferry, and vessels were frequently lost or damaged when spring snowmelt swelled the river to epic proportions. Flash floods also ravaged the landscape in summer, wreaking havoc on trails and carving deep muddy channels that were difficult to negotiate.<br />
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The nearest communities of any size were many days ride distant, and self sufficiency was the only reliable resource. Despite the adversity, the Lee family and others who followed managed to make a life for themselves while engaged in developing, maintaining, and operating the ferry for over 50 years.<br />
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<b>Lee's Ferry</b> <b>1873 - 1928</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical ferry crossing</td></tr>
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The first craft to transport passengers across the river was launched in 1873. Aptly named the <b>Colorado</b>, it had a short lifespan as floodwaters on the river washed it downstream later that year. A new barge was soon constructed and the crossing became a focal point for Mormon pioneers and other hopeful immigrants.<br />
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Over the next several years, settlers continued moving into new lands to the south, while couples heading in the opposite direction to seal their marriages in the Salt Lake temple made a difficult journey along the <b>Honeymoon Trail</b>.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-UroorFYiU/VQPaUhdxRYI/AAAAAAAAVCg/gEZYCk8j3KQ/s1600/WagonRoad_thumb.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="115" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-UroorFYiU/VQPaUhdxRYI/AAAAAAAAVCg/gEZYCk8j3KQ/s1600/WagonRoad_thumb.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Honeymoon Trail</td></tr>
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Tensions with native peoples nearby resulted in the construction of a fortified building called<b> Lee's Ferry Fort</b> in 1874<b>.</b> Although the relationship remained uneasy between the Mormons and their Navajo and Ute neighbors, no major conflicts occurred, and the fort eventually became a trading post.<br />
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John Lee remained a free man until 1874 when he was arrested and held on charges of murder stemming from the Mountain Meadows incident. His first trial ended with a deadlocked jury, in part because prosecutors attempted to implicate Brigham Young in the crime.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PPr50RC5_Cw/VQO_o-1C4XI/AAAAAAAAVCE/mbzb13gz9Tc/s1600/Lee_pre-execution_thumb.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="174" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PPr50RC5_Cw/VQO_o-1C4XI/AAAAAAAAVCE/mbzb13gz9Tc/s1600/Lee_pre-execution_thumb.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John Lee awaiting execution in 1877</td></tr>
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A second trial focused only on John Lee's part in the attack, and the jury convicted him of first degree murder. He was sentenced to die, and in March of 1877 he was taken back to Mountain Meadows where he was executed by firing squad. His last words can be found <a href="https://www.famous-trials.com/mountainmeadows/937-laststatement">here</a> - the sentiments of a man betrayed by those he held in great esteem.<br />
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Emma Lee continued to operate the ranch and ferry for several years after John's arrest and eventual death. The LDS church bought the rights to the ferry and surrounding lands in 1879, granting them to a succession of families who continued the operation.<br />
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This practice continued until 1928, when the existing ferry sank causing the death of three men. By this time, the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/glca/learn/historyculture/navajobridge.htm" target="_blank">Navajo Bridge</a> across <b>Marble Canyon</b> was nearing completion, and it was decided not to rebuild the ferry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkN8MPhmDhA/VQJ3HLVz2OI/AAAAAAAAVBY/W-K0YMFsQ4I/s1600/IMG_2596.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkN8MPhmDhA/VQJ3HLVz2OI/AAAAAAAAVBY/W-K0YMFsQ4I/s1600/IMG_2596.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Navajo Bridge</td></tr>
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For a period of six months there was no effective way to cross the river, forcing travelers to make an 800 mile detour to get around the canyon. This lengthy bypass illustrates how important the ferry was to anyone who needed to traverse the region, and highlights what a vital link the existing bridge is today.<br />
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<b> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lonely Dell Ranch</td></tr>
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<b><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ6LpCrf-GA/VQJ28i7bYTI/AAAAAAAAVAw/Gey0QiQkZNA/s1600/IMG_2583.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ6LpCrf-GA/VQJ28i7bYTI/AAAAAAAAVAw/Gey0QiQkZNA/s1600/IMG_2583.JPG" width="400" /></a></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-McHVAxszs1c/VQJ2nbrY0PI/AAAAAAAAU_g/wFvlXESDs04/s1600/IMG_2570.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-McHVAxszs1c/VQJ2nbrY0PI/AAAAAAAAU_g/wFvlXESDs04/s1600/IMG_2570.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dugout or root cellar at Lonely Dell Ranch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NTCXkvT5WYA/VQJ2ojnjmAI/AAAAAAAAU_o/iIJAyRAtvAA/s1600/IMG_2571.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NTCXkvT5WYA/VQJ2ojnjmAI/AAAAAAAAU_o/iIJAyRAtvAA/s1600/IMG_2571.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of dugout</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2NOr0N5UGkY/VQJ2lOtyf-I/AAAAAAAAU_Y/EHQKXYUz5y0/s1600/IMG_2565.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2NOr0N5UGkY/VQJ2lOtyf-I/AAAAAAAAU_Y/EHQKXYUz5y0/s1600/IMG_2565.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orchard planted in 1965 at Lonely Dell</td></tr>
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<b>Charles H. Spencer</b><br />
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The settlement of the western frontier was as much about exploitation of resources as it was making a life on the frontier. History is littered with examples of those who came to make their fortunes, or in some cases to take the fortunes of others while promising a hefty return on the investment.<br />
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One such individual was <b>Charles Spencer</b>, an entrepreneur and would be mining magnate who believed the shale formations around Lee's Ferry held vast amounts of recoverable gold. In 1910 Mr. Spencer formed the <b>American Placer Mining Company</b> with the intention of using hydraulic sluicing to strip away the soil. He employed his apparently considerable power of persuasion to raise a great deal of capital, and proceeded to purchase and assemble boilers, dredges, flumes and an amalgamator at the remote site.<br />
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One of the challenges was the need for coal to fire boilers, which generated steam to operate equipment. Unfortunately the nearest available supply was located 28 miles upstream at <b>Warm Creek</b>, a tributary of the Colorado. The early answer to this problem was construction of an overland trail to be traversed by mules or burros, but in reality the trail was simply too long and difficult to ever be practical (see <b>Spencer Trail</b> section below).<br />
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Since money was apparently no object (at least not where Charles Spencer was concerned - that's what investors were for) a better solution to the energy problem was to transport the coal via the river, hence the need for a steamship. Commissioned in 1912, the <b><i>Charles H. Spencer </i></b>was a 12' paddle wheel steamer with a 110 horsepower boiler. The ship was built in San Francisco, and shipped piecemeal to Utah where it was loaded onto wagons and transported to Warm Creek for assembly.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles H. Spencer</td></tr>
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This handsome vessel was the largest ever to ply the river north of the <b>Grand Canyon</b>, but it's career was remarkably short. Despite the ability to transport 5 - 6 tons of coal on each trip it consumed more than it delivered, making it very inefficient.<br />
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Additionally, the hoped for gold bonanza never materialized due to problems with the amalgamation process, and by late summer of 1912 the investors bankrolling the project had lost patience. They withdrew funding and the mining operation including the new paddlewheeler were abandoned. The ship was beached and eventually sank during a flood in 1921.<br />
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Today all that remains of the American Placer Mining Co. are the Spencer Trail and rusting hulks of boilers, along with the submerged hull of the <i>Spencer</i> near the north bank of the River.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Placer Mining boiler vessel</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hull and boiler of the <i>Charles H. Spencer</i></td></tr>
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<b>The Spencer Trail</b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft1Rw0eHr8U/VQJ1bmoxulI/AAAAAAAAU7o/-S1fezBuw0w/s1600/IMG_2510.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft1Rw0eHr8U/VQJ1bmoxulI/AAAAAAAAU7o/-S1fezBuw0w/s1600/IMG_2510.JPG" width="200" /></a>One enduring legacy of the attempt to extract riches from the earth at Lee's Ferry is the Spencer Trail, a steep, rocky 2 mile trail that climbs 1600' from the river's edge to the top of the nearby <b>Echo Cliffs. </b>Built by hand in 1911, the path was intended to be a route to coal deposits located to the north. But as a practical means of transporting fuel to the mine it was an utter failure, and was abandoned along with all other aspects of the operation in 1912.</div>
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Fortunately all was not forgotten, at least not completely. While existing as a rough and neglected suggestion for much of the last century, the trail received new life when it was rebuilt by conservation corps trail crews a few years back. Although still rocky and subject to slides, the trail is actually in pretty decent shape.</div>
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The beginning of the route is found to the east of the boat ramps and historic stone buildings, and is well signed. Consisting of a series of undulating switchbacks the trail climbs swiftly, and offers increasingly sweeping views of the area.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vermilion Cliffs reflected in the Colorado</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking east - southeast across the River</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steps on the Spencer Trail</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views across the beginning of Marble Canyon</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Paria River Valley below the Vermilion Cliffs</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing the top of the Echo Cliffs</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tilted sandstone formations at the top</td></tr>
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After many zig-zags and large steps, the path emerges onto the high ridge of the Echo Cliffs. Views from the top encompass <b>Navajo Mountain</b>, <b>Lake Powell</b>, the <b>Kaiparowits</b>, and much more. Wandering around to some of the higher vantage points on the ridge offers the best vistas.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Navajo Mountain rises in the distance</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last remnants of Glen Canyon</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheer canyon walls cleave the plateau</td></tr>
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Today Lee's Ferry is all but forgotten as a once strategic corridor into northern Arizona, and the role it played in frontier history is not a widely known story. Most of those who know of it are more likely to be familiar with the Ferry as either a starting point for Grand Canyon river trips or as a blue ribbon trout fishery.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The launch ramp is the start point for river trips into Grand Canyon</td></tr>
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I suggest the next time you're zipping across the seemingly empty landscape beneath the Vermilion Cliffs, you should consider taking a few hours to meet the ghosts of Lee's Ferry, the pioneers who blazed the way into the New West we live in today. As you walk the grounds and peer through windows of dirt floored cabins imagine yourself toiling in the fields under the mid-day sun, or watching muddy flood waters threaten your crops and livestock for the third time in a year.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sKlzgr8XTrw/VQJ2vAnpfFI/AAAAAAAAVAA/RSeR1KIO0Ok/s1600/IMG_2574.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sKlzgr8XTrw/VQJ2vAnpfFI/AAAAAAAAVAA/RSeR1KIO0Ok/s1600/IMG_2574.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cemetery at Lonely Dell</td></tr>
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Take a walk through the cemetery, where 25 graves that span nearly 60 years are located. Consider the large granite marker that memorializes the 4 Johnson children who died in 1891 during a span of 3 months.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3fTWFDH11Oo/VQJ20rCQG5I/AAAAAAAAVAQ/_o8i7u8vtHU/s1600/IMG_2577.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3fTWFDH11Oo/VQJ20rCQG5I/AAAAAAAAVAQ/_o8i7u8vtHU/s1600/IMG_2577.JPG" title="" width="200" /></a>They were unfortunate victims of a deadly diptheria outbreak that occurred when travelers arrived at the ferry with a sick child. The Johnsons did what was common at the time, and offered their home to the ailing family, only to pay the ultimate price because vaccinations had not yet been invented, and people had little understanding of contagious diseases.</div>
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Or hike the rugged and exposed Spencer Trail, imagining you're the wrangler with a 20 mule train heading for Warm Creek almost 30 miles away. There's no shade, little water, and it's a long and dusty trip in each direction. Your reward for a day's work in the saddle will be a bedroll on the hard ground and perhaps some beans and salt pork for supper. Your wages might equal a dollar a day, but it won't be hard to save money because there's no towns to spend it in.</div>
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Afterwords you'll be able to return to an air conditioned car that forms a protective cocoon around you when you've had enough. But if you're like me you might just appreciate it a bit more after experiencing the blazing sun, austere landscape, parched air, and lack of anything remotely modern. And you might not even mind that you're still at least an hour away from the next town - even at 70 miles per hour.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orchard blossom at Lonely Dell Ranch</td></tr>
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<br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-22809037168558026572015-03-02T13:48:00.001-07:002015-03-06T19:17:51.344-07:00The Wave Rave<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Remoteness is an attribute found in relative abundance across the Colorado Plateau, as geography, lack of roads, little water and a relatively harsh climate have combined to keep humans from populating the region in any significant way. That said it is becoming more of a challenge to find the solitude that used to be a hallmark of the area, as more and more people learn about fantastical geological landscapes found here.<br />
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<b>The Wave</b> is a perfect example of this encroachment. Located along the Arizona - Utah border in an area that is about as far from civilization as it's possible to be in the lower 48 states, the Wave has become a mecca much like <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2014/07/lower-antelope-canyon-modern-art-from.html" target="_blank">Antelope Canyon</a> for the photographer seeking to capture colorful and sinuous lines of cross bedded sandstone.<br />
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Inevitably stunning pictures of this beautiful rock formation quickly permeated the awareness of those who enjoy outdoor activities, leading to a hundred fold increase in the number of visitors over the last 10 years. As is the case with many spectacular but ultimately fragile locations, the government agency tasked with supervising the area was forced to take draconian measures limiting the number of people allowed to access the area each day.<br />
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In this post I'll explain the process would be visitors must attempt in order to obtain a permit, as well as illustrate the some of the incredible beauty found in this area.<br />
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<b>Vermilion Cliffs - Paria National Monument</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Vermilion Cliffs rise above the Colorado River </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Created in 2000 by Presidential proclamation, the <a href="http://www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/natmon/vermilion.html" target="_blank">Vermilion Cliffs - Paria Canyon National Monument</a> includes nearly 300,000 acres of rugged and isolated canyons, buttes, and cliffs in extreme northern Arizona and southern Utah. It is one of several such monuments in the region which also includes the <b>Grand Staircase - Escalante</b> and <b>Grand Canyon - Parashant National Monuments</b>, all administered by the <b>Bureau of Land Management (BLM)</b>.<br />
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In the Vermilion Cliffs Monument, there are several areas which have grown in popularity over recent years, including <b>Paria Canyon</b>, <b>Wire Pass</b> and <b>Buckskin Gulch</b>, and of course the Wave. The BLM has instituted a permit system for all of these areas, and it can be somewhat confusing for the uninitiated. <br />
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The area that encompasses the Wave is referred to as <b>Coyote Buttes North</b>, and permits for this area are the hardest to come by. According to a <a href="http://www.latimes.com/nation/nationnow/la-na-nn-wave-monument-claims-another-hiker-20130724-story.html" target="_blank">Los Angeles Times article,</a> 48,000 people applied in 2012 for 7800 available permits. Only 20 persons per day are allowed, and no overnight camping is permitted. 10 of the permits are allocated online up to 4 months in advance using a lottery system - use <a href="https://www.blm.gov/az/paria/index.cfm?usearea=CB" target="_blank">this link</a> to check availability and begin the process of applying.<br />
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If the dates of your visit are known this may be a good starting point for trying to get a permit. Unfortunately using this method you take your chances with the weather - if road conditions are hazardous or there is a possibility of flash flooding you may have to rethink your visit, and there are no rainchecks or refunds given for any reason..<br />
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If you are flexible with your travel plans and have an extra day to spend in the area there is an alternate way of possibly receiving a permit. This involves an in person visit to the <b>Kanab</b> BLM office the day prior to your intended hike. A lottery process begins each morning at 9:00 a.m. where the remaining 10 permits for the following day are issued. Be aware that the already slight chances of obtaining a permit decrease exponentially during the very popular spring and fall seasons.<br />
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As the BLM office is closed on weekends, permits for the following Saturday, Sunday, and Monday are issued in the Friday morning lottery. For those with really open travel itineraries this means you can enter the lottery for all three days in succession, modestly increasing the chance of being awarded a permit.<br />
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If you are fortunate enough to get a permit either online or in person, the rest is relatively easy.<br />
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<b>Getting There</b><br />
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Driving to the trailhead usually requires a high clearance vehicle, and at times all or four wheel drive. Like most of the primitive roads found in the region weather can significantly impact the condition of the route, and it may not be possible to get to the trailhead. If heavy rain or snow are in the forecast, the road will be impassable and it is wiser to cancel the trip. Check with one of the BLM Visitor Centers in the area for current road conditions before heading out.<br />
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<b>House Rock Valley Road</b><br />
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This scenic 29 mile unmaintained dirt road runs south and north along the base of <b>Buckskin Mountain</b> (the northern extension of the <b>Kaibab Plateau</b>). There is an entry point at either end, and which way you choose can be dependent on road conditions and weather. If coming from Kanab on the north end, travel 38 miles east on <b>U.S. Highway 89</b> to the junction with <b>BLM Road 1065</b>. Turning south the road reaches Wire Pass trailhead at about 8 miles in.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buckskin Mountain</td></tr>
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Along the way you'll encounter <b>Buckskin Wash</b>, a usually dry channel that bisects the road. If there has been recent heavy rain there is a strong possibility that the wash will flood. Attempting to cross under these conditions is extremely hazardous, and may even result in death. Even if the wash is not running full, it may be muddy enough to trap a vehicle. Use extreme caution when negotiating the wash if water is present.<br />
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Another issue to be aware of is that the 8 miles of road from U.S. 89 to Wire Pass runs through a series of hills composed of shales and clays, which quickly turn to goo when wet. Avoid this section if rain or snow are likely.<br />
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Another option which mitigates some of the possible road hazards is to take the southern approach from <b>U.S. Highway 89A</b>. The route is longer (21 miles to the trailhead) but the road surface is primarily gravel based and somewhat less prone to washouts and flooding.<br />
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<b>Wire Pass Trailhead</b><br />
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Once you've reached the starting point for the hike, finding the trail is fairly straightforward. Incidentally, all successful permit applicants are given a map with landmark pictures and a route description. This illustrated guide was prompted by multiple deaths in the summer of 2013, when hikers who became disoriented in the slickrock desert died from heat related illness.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BLM issued route description for the Wave</td></tr>
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Beginning across the road from the modest parking area with pit toilet amenities, Wire Pass trailhead is also the entry point for two other hikes - Buckskin Gulch and Paria Canyon. The distance from the parking area to the feature known as the Wave is just over 3 miles each way.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning of Wire Pass trail with flash flood warning sign</td></tr>
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Shortly after crossing House Rock Valley road the trail drops into a dry streambed named <b>Coyote Wash</b> and heads left (north) with easy walking surrounded by an attractive landscape.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coyote Wash</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coyote Wash</td></tr>
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Staying in the wash for about 1/2 mile brings the hiker to the next waypoint, where the trail climbs out of Coyote Wash and heads generally east across a sandy, shrubby flat. The junction is marked with a sign for Coyote Buttes North as seen below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coyote Buttes North trail sign</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandstone walls above Buckskin Gulch are a prominent landmark</td></tr>
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The trail meanders eastwards over a sandy bench providing the first good look at Coyote Buttes for which the area is named.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coyote Buttes</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The trail soon crosses a northern spur of the Buttes over a low saddle and then makes a turn to the south (right). Apparently this is an area that easily confuses some hikers on the return journey as the guide emphasizes becoming familiar with landmarks in the immediate area to help identify the way back.<br />
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Begin heading south, keeping the ridge to your right and staying more to the upper section of the slope. The terrain here is mostly slickrock and sand which descend to the east at a shallow angle into a jumble of small ravines and washes, and staying high offers the best vantage point to see the route ahead.<br />
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A bit further out on the southern horizon is a useful benchmark called the <b>Teepees</b>. These colorful and interesting sandstone pillars lie beyond the Wave, but a hiker with an intrepid spirit and a good sense of the land could easily make a cross-country pilgrimage to see them up close.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Teepees</td></tr>
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The guide issued by the BLM is a useful aid to anyone who has never been here, or maybe to those folks who have no sense of direction, but for the most part stay near the ridge and continue south until you get a glimpse of the white sandstone formation<b> </b>seen below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup of the formation above the Wave</td></tr>
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The area known as the Wave lies just below the northern face of this sandstone monument, and the large vertical crack or seam seen here is like a giant indicator pointing to the destination.<br />
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Before reaching the Wave, the trail crosses another large dry streambed called <b>Sand Cove Wash</b>, and then takes an upward slant on a moderately steep and sandy hill. At the top another short wash leads to the Wave itself.<br />
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<b>The Wave</b><br />
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A fairly interesting notion about the Wave is that most people have seen one or more iconic photographs, and in their imagination the feature probably seems like it would extend over a great area. Truth is, the Wave is actually very compact and easy to see all at once.<br />
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I've been fortunate to see it when no one else was around, and that privilege allowed me to experience the solitude and symmetry of one of natures great works for a brief time. But when the other 19 permit holders for the day show up, the illusion quickly vanishes as each person scrambles for the perfect image.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Wave</td></tr>
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As much as I enjoy the stunning visuals offered by the Wave, there is a lot more to see in Coyote Buttes North than this relatively tiny (but spectacular) setting. For instance, most people never look up and see the small arch that is perched on the rock formation above the Wave.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arch above the Wave</td></tr>
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When I was there recently, I spent more of my time scrambling around and on the sandstone monument above the Wave, which afforded me some wonderful pictures of the surrounding area.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking north</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Wave from above - see the people?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking through the arch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An alien head frozen in stone?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The area surrounding the Wave has many attractive features</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small arch</td></tr>
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From the highest point I could see across the Paria Plateau to the south, over Buckskin Gulch to the north, and even all the way into southern Utah where <b>Powell Point</b> looms over all.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powell Point in southern Utah - the highest step in the Grand Staircase</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Hiking to the Wave is easy, given you're in reasonably good shape and don't mind a simple cross country trek. The hard part is getting the required permit. Once you're there enjoy the phenomenon known as the Wave, particularly if you can arrive early or stay late and enjoy having it all to yourself.<br />
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But don't forget the rest of Coyote Buttes North. There is a lot of country out there, most of it as interesting as the Wave, and although there are no established trails that should not stop the well prepared traveler from exploring the nooks and crannies. I know I'll be trying my luck again in the future, trying to beat the odds and get that permit.<br />
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Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-1911782137270399892014-08-26T12:59:00.000-07:002015-03-03T21:02:03.011-07:00Grand Canyon - The Bright Angel Trail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Old Faithful</b>. <b>Half Dome</b>. <b>Angels Landing</b>. Most National Parks have an iconic feature with instant name recognition, and <b>Bright Angel</b> <b>Trail </b>at <b>Grand Canyon</b> certainly falls into this category.<b> </b>Nearly anyone who has ever ventured even a few steps into the abyss has likely walked this well used path which leads eventually to the bottom and the <b>Colorado River</b>.<br />
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Due to its location in the exceptionally busy<b> South Rim Village</b>, Bright Angel entices many casual visitors to take their first and possibly only journey below the rim. For those who dare to go all the way it is here that most hikers will discover if they have what it takes. And while there are no "easy" trails in and out of Grand Canyon, there are trails that are "easier" than others. For beginners Bright Angel makes a good first choice. <br />
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With ease of access,
seasonal water, high likelihood of human contact, and a wide, well
maintained trail tread, the Bright Angel is the logical route for
anyone who wants to experience what Canyon hiking is all about.<br />
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<b>Bright Angel Trail Origins</b><br />
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The Bright Angel trail owes its existence to a significant geological rift - the <b>Bright Angel Fault</b>. The presence of a generally east-west displacement here allows for one of the few natural trans-canyon routes. Wildlife first began using the contours of the fault to reach the bottom, and nearly 12,000 years ago early human inhabitants of the area followed their trails. More recently the <b>Havasupai</b> people utilized the path to reach crops along the perennial waters <b>of Garden Creek</b>, in a place known today as <b>Indian Garden</b>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ralph Cameron (courtesy photo)</td></tr>
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The arrival of settlers and prospectors in the area in the late 1800's heralded an era of trail construction. For the most part the path we use today was improved by <b>Pete Berry</b> and brothers <b>Ralph and Niles Cameron</b> to reach mining claims below the rim.<br />
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Of the three men Ralph was more entrepreneurial, and he was quick to recognize the potential in extracting money from early Canyon tourists. Ralph fortuitously became sole owner of Bright Angel trail when Pete Berry transferred title to him in exchange for rights to the <b>Grandview Toll Road</b>, another improved trail to the east that served other Canyon mining claims.<br />
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Christened as the <b>Bright Angel Toll Road</b>, the (somewhat) improved trail offered visitors a chance to go below the rim for the modest fee of $1.00 per person. In conjunction, Ralph also developed a hotel on the rim and camping facilities at Indian Gardens. As Ralph saw it, the Canyon itself was likely to be much more profitable than any minerals it might contain, and he took advantage of all opportunities that came his way. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bright Angel Toll Road Gate (courtesy photo)</td></tr>
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In the early days competition for tourism dollars was intense, and the resulting rivalry was bitter. The arrival of the <b>Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe </b>railroad (<b>ATSF</b>) at the South Rim in 1901 facilitated an easy and comfortable way for the average citizen to see this natural wonder, and the age of popular visitation had arrived.<br />
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Sadly for the railroad Ralph Cameron had gotten there first, and his exclusive control of the only viable trail into the Canyon and development of tourist camps on the rim and in the Canyon became the subject of constant litigation. Lawyers for the ATSF tried repeatedly without success to wrest control of the lucrative holdings away from Cameron, and their efforts only served to increase the animosity between the parties involved.<br />
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To circumvent the stranglehold of Cameron's empire, the railroad and their partner the <b>Fred Harvey Company</b> built the luxurious <b>El Tovar</b> <b>Hotel</b> in 1905 as alternative lodging for their guests. Additionally in 1910 they constructed the <b>Hermit Trail</b> with access to <b>Hermit Camp</b> below the rim to compete with amenities operated by Cameron at Indian Garden. The railroad and Fred Harvey Company spent enormous sums of money to make sure the guest experience was far superior, and passengers could walk or ride a mule on their trail at no charge.<br />
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The establishment of <b>Grand Canyon National Monument</b> in 1908 and the subsequent transformation to National Park status in 1919 led to federal efforts to decertify claims exerted by Cameron over the Bright Angel Toll Road and Indian Garden below the rim. Much to the regret of the Park Service, by this time Cameron had thoroughly insinuated himself into Arizona
politics, and as territorial legislator, County Supervisor, and eventually Senator he continued to exert a strong
influence over the fate of "his" trail for years to come.<br />
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Despite Cameron's interference, the <b>Mining Law of 1872</b> declares that claims must be constantly worked or "proved" in order to maintain legal ownership. Since Cameron was not doing any actual mining (except of the tourists), one by one his claims were revoked. After repeated appeals failed to reverse the outcome, Cameron lost direct control over the trail in 1913, and ownership subsequently reverted to <b>Coconino County</b>. Rather than accept defeat gracefully Ralph used his political clout and local anti-government sentiment to persuade the county to continue to operate Bright Angel as a toll road, keeping it out of the hands of the Park Service as long as possible.<br />
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For their part, the long struggle and subsequent failure of the Park Service to obtain title to Bright Angel resulted in a decision in 1923 to build the <b>South Kaibab Trail</b>, another amazing Canyon landmark. In retrospect the South Kaibab trail is probably the only real positive that resulted from the conflict, for without the decades long legal battle it would never have been considered, let alone constructed.<br />
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The contentious fight over who owned Bright Angel finally came to an end in 1928 when the Park Service was granted ownership of the trail by the county in exchange for a new road to the South Rim. The next two decades saw significant rebuilding and improving of the route by the Park Service and <b>Civilian Conservation Corps</b>, leaving us with the path used by hundreds of thousands each year.<br />
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The Bright Angel trail is considered a "corridor" route, meaning that it receives regular maintenance and is frequently patrolled by <b>NPS Backcountry Rangers</b>. It features seasonal water at various points, and is heavily used making encounters with other people very likely. It is one of only two trails (South Kaibab is the other) that offers a means to cross the Colorado River on a suspension bridge, and it has direct access to <b>Phantom Ranch</b>, the only established lodging facility at the bottom of the Canyon.<br />
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Even so it is still a challenging hike. It drops nearly 4400 feet from the rim to the river, and has an average grade of 10%. Temperatures at the bottom of the Canyon run generally 20 to 25 degrees warmer than at the top, and in summer the intense heat, lack of shade, and the demanding physical effort can lead to problems for unprepared hikers. Despite all that, the Bright Angel is one of the most popular and heavily traveled trails at Grand Canyon.<br />
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<b>The Trail</b><br />
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Beginning near the <b>Kolb Studio</b>, the trail begins a 9.5 mile trek to the Colorado River with a seemingly endless sucession of switchbacks that last nearly all the way to Indian Garden. In the first 4 miles the Bright Angel loses 3000 feet of elevation, almost 3/4 of the total drop. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wide, well maintained trail tread is a hallmark of the Bright Angel Trail</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The upper sections of the trail sees many casual hikers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down into the abyss</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switchbacks make the grade more manageable</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canyon walls rise quickly as the the trail makes steady downward progress</td></tr>
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Anyone tackling the challenge of hiking Bright Angel will appreciate the placement of frequent excuses to stop and take a break, like <b>Mile and a Half Resthouse</b>, with shade, composting toilets, and potable water (seasonal). Another opportunity presents itself further along at <b>Three Mile Resthouse</b>, and again at Indian Garden.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mile and a Half Resthouse with seasonal water offers a chance to take a break</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember - what goes down must come up!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QtZBtIx328U/U8F3LyVJuaI/AAAAAAAAP5c/wgZ8b_aXg6E/s1600/IMG_1207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QtZBtIx328U/U8F3LyVJuaI/AAAAAAAAP5c/wgZ8b_aXg6E/s1600/IMG_1207.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indian Garden is nestled below the Redwall in a grove of cottonwood trees</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_dDto9PFjBA/U8F3Hd5dD4I/AAAAAAAAP5M/5Xk4hvb_g1c/s1600/IMG_1204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_dDto9PFjBA/U8F3Hd5dD4I/AAAAAAAAP5M/5Xk4hvb_g1c/s1600/IMG_1204.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The relatively flat bench of Bright Angel shale forms the Tonto Plateau</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZdEPsuOCSE/U8F3E3j3YlI/AAAAAAAAP5E/vp4ZIDiBJEU/s1600/IMG_1203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZdEPsuOCSE/U8F3E3j3YlI/AAAAAAAAP5E/vp4ZIDiBJEU/s1600/IMG_1203.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back reveals a significant loss of elevation</td></tr>
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After many zig-zags traversing sheer Canyon walls, the trail begins a shallower approach along a broad terrace of the Tonto Plateau as it heads for Indian Garden. This welcoming and shady oasis harbors a campground and Ranger Station, as well as trail options for trips down, out, east, or west.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8hJKuTyp1Ag/U_o2noi97nI/AAAAAAAAQFs/Zrt4e3EulAA/s1600/IMG_1096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8hJKuTyp1Ag/U_o2noi97nI/AAAAAAAAQFs/Zrt4e3EulAA/s1600/IMG_1096.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Indian Garden</td></tr>
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Indian Garden sits alongside <b>Garden Creek</b>, and is characterized by mature cottonwood trees planted by Ralph Cameron. Historically the waters of the creek were used by native peoples to grow crops, and later provided drinking water to early tourists.<br />
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The campground at Indian Garden is useful to overnight Canyon hikers in two ways. As a destination for those who want to spend the night below the rim without making a trip to the Colorado River, it may be a more reasonable goal for first time backpackers at 4.5 miles each way. It can also be utilized as part of a multi-day trip, either as an overnight break on the way in or the way out.<br />
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Ambitious hikers also pass through Indian Garden enroute to <b>Plateau Point</b>, a there-and-back trip to a viewpoint perched on the rim of the <b>Inner Gorge</b> 1200 feet above the Colorado River. The distance overall is 12 miles, with an elevation loss/gain of over 6000 feet. Although a fair number of people make the journey as a day hike, the trip is physically demanding and should never be attempted in the hotter summer months.<br />
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Indian Garden also sits at the nexus of the only established east-west Canyon route, the <b>Tonto</b> <b>Trail</b>. Here backpackers can turn east or west, heading deeper into less visited parts of the Canyon. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-rFu4fyvGw/U_o2q3bXMiI/AAAAAAAAQF0/nI1ti0dsTlY/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-rFu4fyvGw/U_o2q3bXMiI/AAAAAAAAQF0/nI1ti0dsTlY/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corrals and ramada at Indian Garden</td></tr>
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Another item of note is the pump house at Indian Garden. Most visitors to the Park don't realize that all drinking water at the North and South Rims comes from within the Canyon. This scarce and precious resource originates from Roaring Springs, located at the base of the Redwall on the north side of the River.<br />
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A 12 mile pipeline constructed in 1963 carries water that is pumped to storage tanks on the rim. In many locations the pipeline follows the same route as Bright Angel, allowing for seasonal water to be provided to thirsty hikers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-szp5LCWEHW0/U_o2tLbHYaI/AAAAAAAAQF8/fuiPUAgw5VQ/s1600/IMG_1099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-szp5LCWEHW0/U_o2tLbHYaI/AAAAAAAAQF8/fuiPUAgw5VQ/s1600/IMG_1099.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pumphouse at Indian Garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plateau Point and Tonto West trail junction at Indian Gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pwqp-NDXdTA/U8F1BWHCTlI/AAAAAAAAPy8/laBK3sVQGPo/s1600/IMG_1105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pwqp-NDXdTA/U8F1BWHCTlI/AAAAAAAAPy8/laBK3sVQGPo/s1600/IMG_1105.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tonto East trail junction at Indian Gardens</td></tr>
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After departing from Indian Garden, the trail continues a modest drop through the upper end of <b>Pipe Creek</b>. The horizontal ledges of <b>Tapeats</b> sandstone form an attractive corridor, and the presence of water allows for some greenery in an otherwise austere landscape.<br />
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Though there are many places along this section where it is possible to reach the creek, the water is not recommended for drinking without treatment or filtering. It is suitable to use creek water to wet shirts, hats, and other garments to keep cool on a hot day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hce00rJ3tFY/U8F1GkkmtHI/AAAAAAAAPzM/-XubRNg9-HQ/s1600/IMG_1109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hce00rJ3tFY/U8F1GkkmtHI/AAAAAAAAPzM/-XubRNg9-HQ/s1600/IMG_1109.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tapeats sandstone ledges give Canyon walls a "terraced" look</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pack mules carry supplies in and out of the Canyon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hLp8msEUnT8/U8F3CBK5dZI/AAAAAAAAP48/_3iSlu8kXFg/s1600/IMG_1197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hLp8msEUnT8/U8F3CBK5dZI/AAAAAAAAP48/_3iSlu8kXFg/s1600/IMG_1197.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">California King Snake, one of many reptiles in the Canyon</td></tr>
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The Bright Angel emerges from the narrows of Tapeats sandstone and begins the final approach to the rugged Inner Gorge. The last 1200 feet or so of elevation loss to the River cuts through a dense, tortured metamorphic rock known as the <b>Vishnu Schist</b>.<br />
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This erosion resistant material has been submerged beneath the earth where tremendous heat and pressure have recycled and remade what used to lie on the surface. At around 1.2 billion years old it represents the oldest layer found in the Canyon, and is quite different from the many types of sedimentary rock found above it.<br />
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As harsh environments go, the Inner Gorge is about as unwelcoming as it gets. The dense rock resists fragmentation, and little to no soil exists for plants to take root. Even if a seed were to find a toehold, lack of water and intense heat keeps all but the hardiest vegetation from making a go of it. Still, nature abhors a vacuum and there are a few specialized plants that manage to exist in spite of the limitations.<br />
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Constructing a useful trail in this part of the Canyon necessitated
liberal use of explosives to blast a channel in the rock. A section
with the colorfully descriptive name of the <b>Devil's Corkscrew</b> consists of many switchbacks carved into the schist which lead to the bed of Pipe Creek. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPsMCdp36cg/U8F1TcsVQsI/AAAAAAAAPz0/4urtkEScs88/s1600/IMG_1119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPsMCdp36cg/U8F1TcsVQsI/AAAAAAAAPz0/4urtkEScs88/s1600/IMG_1119.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First look at the section known as the Devil's Corkscrew</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y-vCS0RKEcM/U8F1V8GS-iI/AAAAAAAAPz8/WUxk4JR0t7g/s1600/IMG_1120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y-vCS0RKEcM/U8F1V8GS-iI/AAAAAAAAPz8/WUxk4JR0t7g/s1600/IMG_1120.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite the width there are still sections where empty space lies mere steps away</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last shade before dropping into the Inner Gorge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9tEyrNqCU8g/U8F1cCk95LI/AAAAAAAAP0M/uIjz5i-OoPI/s1600/IMG_1122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9tEyrNqCU8g/U8F1cCk95LI/AAAAAAAAP0M/uIjz5i-OoPI/s1600/IMG_1122.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail carved into Vishnu Schist, a dark metamorphic rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TYvfM64NCuw/U8F1iadhqeI/AAAAAAAAP0c/6tLeVoahJGE/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TYvfM64NCuw/U8F1iadhqeI/AAAAAAAAP0c/6tLeVoahJGE/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail was blasted into rugged walls of dense metamorphic rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SbrahWf-oJc/U8F1oCaQZhI/AAAAAAAAP0s/TDEtGBp5e4M/s1600/IMG_1129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SbrahWf-oJc/U8F1oCaQZhI/AAAAAAAAP0s/TDEtGBp5e4M/s1600/IMG_1129.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final descent to the creek bed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IXJVHpTFGjw/U8F1xks9GsI/AAAAAAAAP1E/-r0nIY0A17Y/s1600/IMG_1133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IXJVHpTFGjw/U8F1xks9GsI/AAAAAAAAP1E/-r0nIY0A17Y/s1600/IMG_1133.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Inner Gorge - a landscape of naked rock and low desert plants</td></tr>
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Once the trail reaches the stream, the grade becomes much less severe as it winds through the channel to the River. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RFnrJRuxUfU/U8F14a6e5yI/AAAAAAAAP1U/sDYEHVsdpfM/s1600/IMG_1140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RFnrJRuxUfU/U8F14a6e5yI/AAAAAAAAP1U/sDYEHVsdpfM/s1600/IMG_1140.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water flows in Pipe Creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3Zfnv8-StNI/U8F2_MHiYDI/AAAAAAAAP40/DZRdcvbp1qs/s1600/IMG_1195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3Zfnv8-StNI/U8F2_MHiYDI/AAAAAAAAP40/DZRdcvbp1qs/s1600/IMG_1195.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old mine adit (shaft) along the trail</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aHpb4uHcxE/U8F1-FHllHI/AAAAAAAAP1c/ZmZjKeWxW6g/s1600/IMG_1142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aHpb4uHcxE/U8F1-FHllHI/AAAAAAAAP1c/ZmZjKeWxW6g/s1600/IMG_1142.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A narrow passage offers welcome shade in the morning and late afternoon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CC7e5NrZI6s/U8F2BeuGNYI/AAAAAAAAP1k/oHZFKHy7698/s1600/IMG_1145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CC7e5NrZI6s/U8F2BeuGNYI/AAAAAAAAP1k/oHZFKHy7698/s1600/IMG_1145.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lower Pipe Creek</td></tr>
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Near the mouth of Pipe Creek the noise of the Colorado River is heard before the water comes into view. At this intersection we meet the <b>River Trail</b> for the final 1.5 miles to Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel campground. There is also a composting toilet here at <b>River Resthouse</b> (no water available) to accommodate those who have the urge, as well as an emergency phone to summon help if necessary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JieeHIbfdwo/U8F24G82ewI/AAAAAAAAP4c/oIb6kFU2_-I/s1600/IMG_1191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JieeHIbfdwo/U8F24G82ewI/AAAAAAAAP4c/oIb6kFU2_-I/s1600/IMG_1191.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River Resthouse</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uf13f9eUZ7I/U8F26DdPZHI/AAAAAAAAP4k/kUwV8E8K_00/s1600/IMG_1192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uf13f9eUZ7I/U8F26DdPZHI/AAAAAAAAP4k/kUwV8E8K_00/s1600/IMG_1192.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back - the rim of the Canyon</td></tr>
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The River trail is also blasted out of the gneiss (schist), and there is a modest gain in elevation as it climbs away from the Colorado. In summer this section of trail is best tackled in early morning or late afternoon, as it is exposed and brutally hot with nothing but heat reflecting rocks all around.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B-p2D-xvtU4/U8F2HfTAiHI/AAAAAAAAP10/ZXpKFlUrLCY/s1600/IMG_1148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B-p2D-xvtU4/U8F2HfTAiHI/AAAAAAAAP10/ZXpKFlUrLCY/s1600/IMG_1148.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The River Trail connects Bright Angel to the South and North Kaibab trails</td></tr>
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After about a mile of walking (sometimes in sand) the Silver Bridge crossing the River comes into view. The bridge was constructed in the 1960's and is a vital link in the earlier mentioned trans-Canyon water line from Roaring Springs. The pipeline carrying 500,000 gallons of water each day to the South Rim is suspended beneath the bridge structure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OgbU4EoY4Ic/U8F2J05TwlI/AAAAAAAAP18/KGsnVs2zLfg/s1600/IMG_1155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OgbU4EoY4Ic/U8F2J05TwlI/AAAAAAAAP18/KGsnVs2zLfg/s1600/IMG_1155.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Silver Bridge<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0duJ2UvMqbc/U8F2MKJzYEI/AAAAAAAAP2E/irpKh2T0BKM/s1600/IMG_1158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0duJ2UvMqbc/U8F2MKJzYEI/AAAAAAAAP2E/irpKh2T0BKM/s1600/IMG_1158.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trans-Canyon pipeline is suspended beneath the Silver Bridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AiKj_g9dszI/U8F2OUGeQ8I/AAAAAAAAP2M/JP0xxBNgssM/s1600/IMG_1159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AiKj_g9dszI/U8F2OUGeQ8I/AAAAAAAAP2M/JP0xxBNgssM/s1600/IMG_1159.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To Phantom Ranch, Bright Angel Campground, and the North Rim (via North Kaibab trail)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EaJnoDkawgI/U8F2Sp-yhCI/AAAAAAAAP2c/KPKnmjlPSco/s1600/IMG_1161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EaJnoDkawgI/U8F2Sp-yhCI/AAAAAAAAP2c/KPKnmjlPSco/s1600/IMG_1161.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking upstream on the Colorado River</td></tr>
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Once across the River, the path leads a short distance to <b>Bright Angel Creek</b> as it emerges from the north. Parallel trails on either side of the creek lead to <b>Bright Angel Campground</b> on the west bank, and Phantom Ranch on the east side.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dZdQNxOS8-s/U8F2xd9H_2I/AAAAAAAAP4E/9wdbSNUu6vY/s1600/IMG_1184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dZdQNxOS8-s/U8F2xd9H_2I/AAAAAAAAP4E/9wdbSNUu6vY/s1600/IMG_1184.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Downstream footbridge over Bright Angel Creek</td></tr>
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Bright Angel is the name bestowed on the creek by <b>Maj. John Wesley Powell</b> after his epic voyage of exploration along the Colorado in 1869. He initially referred to the clear water stream as <b>Silver Creek</b> upon the first encounter, but changed it to Bright Angel as counterpoint to the name <b>Dirty Devil</b>, which was a foul smelling and murky water course located upstream of the Grand Canyon. Since then many locations and features bear the name Bright Angel, much to the confusion of first time visitors.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UjRv9EzLPmU/U8F2u6d2SNI/AAAAAAAAP38/YZvmtok62nI/s1600/IMG_1182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UjRv9EzLPmU/U8F2u6d2SNI/AAAAAAAAP38/YZvmtok62nI/s1600/IMG_1182.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bright Angel Creek</td></tr>
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A developed campground exists here that is nearly always fully occupied, as it is the only facility where camping is allowed in this part of the Canyon. Accessed by the Bright Angel, South Kaibab and <b>North Kaibab</b> trails, Bright Angel campground is where 99% of first time backpackers will experience a night below the rim.<br />
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Incidentally, all overnight use of the Canyon (except for staying at Phantom Ranch) requires a permit from the <b>Backcountry Office</b>. Since the Park Service recommends first time hikers use corridor trails such as Bright Angel, getting a permit to spend the night at Indian Garden, Bright Angel, or <b>Cottonwood</b> campgrounds can be very difficult, especially in the spring, summer, and fall when Park visitation is at the peak.<br />
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There is a lot of information available from the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm" target="_blank">Grand Canyon National Park website</a>, including when and where to apply for permits, but be aware that demand greatly exceeds supply in high use areas like Bright Angel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZqWrMGiGqas/U8F2iwBb3zI/AAAAAAAAP3U/lnwOKsBkWKQ/s1600/IMG_1175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZqWrMGiGqas/U8F2iwBb3zI/AAAAAAAAP3U/lnwOKsBkWKQ/s1600/IMG_1175.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bright Angel Campground</td></tr>
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If you are fortunate enough to get a permit, the sites here are spacious, flat, and feature picnic tables. Unfortunately there is also a serious rodent problem, since decades of careless campers have spoiled rock squirrels, ring-tailed cats, mice, and ravens with the reward of food, whether intentional or not.<br />
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In years past, various means of depriving these critters of snacks have been tried with varying degrees of success, but the most recent iteration is the food storage locker. Of course to be effective ALL edible items have to be placed in the box - woe to the hiker who takes a midnight snack into the tent, only to discover that nylon walls are no barrier to hungry mice.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gngM0kKP7S8/U8F2ka8fgyI/AAAAAAAAP3c/clG2VhF2Hoc/s1600/IMG_1178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gngM0kKP7S8/U8F2ka8fgyI/AAAAAAAAP3c/clG2VhF2Hoc/s1600/IMG_1178.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the prowl</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ed0UcpWb2_M/U8F2mmRc2oI/AAAAAAAAP3k/Bw-x021YNbY/s1600/IMG_1180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ed0UcpWb2_M/U8F2mmRc2oI/AAAAAAAAP3k/Bw-x021YNbY/s1600/IMG_1180.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Food locker</td></tr>
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As utilities are available nearby, the facilities include restrooms with running water and lights. Although spending the night here is still "roughing it", it could be more challenging. Consider true backcountry camping, where water has to be located and then treated or filtered, tables consist of whatever flat rock you may find, and going to the bathroom requires techniques most folks are unfamiliar with.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UzBb06O6EUA/U8F2r-WSqRI/AAAAAAAAP30/78D5tRMeFYE/s1600/IMG_1181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UzBb06O6EUA/U8F2r-WSqRI/AAAAAAAAP30/78D5tRMeFYE/s1600/IMG_1181.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running water, flush toilets, and a roof - what luxury!</td></tr>
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For those who have no desire to carry a heavy pack or pitch a tent, there is another option - Phantom Ranch. Although the area had been used for millenia by native peoples as a place of habitation, the modern day version of this rustic yet comfortable facility has it origins in 1902. That year a man named <b>David Rust</b> began planting trees along the creek and constructing a tent camp in the hopes of attracting visitors from the North Rim.<br />
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The location gained some prominence in 1913 when <b>Teddy Roosevelt</b> stayed here as part of a hunting trip, and the name was briefly changed to "Roosevelt's Camp". In 1922 the Fred Harvey Company took control of the area and gave architect <b>Mary Jane Colter</b> the task of redesigning and constructing a more permanent lodging facility.<br />
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Using native stone and timber and a style known today as National Park Rustic, Ms. Colter created a setting where individual cabins surround a central dining hall. Colter also suggested the current name, borrowing the word Phantom from an upstream tributary of Bright Angel Creek. In the 1930s the Civilian Conservation Corps made many improvements to the area, including the construction of a swimming pool. Unfortunately for hot and weary hikers, the pool has since been filled in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua5upx3Mn2A/U8F2WrOOY1I/AAAAAAAAP2s/fUnzSsosRio/s1600/IMG_1164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua5upx3Mn2A/U8F2WrOOY1I/AAAAAAAAP2s/fUnzSsosRio/s1600/IMG_1164.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabin at Phantom Ranch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M49YSDme2-w/U8F2UDDieNI/AAAAAAAAP2k/XVFN-pTr4Xc/s1600/IMG_1163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M49YSDme2-w/U8F2UDDieNI/AAAAAAAAP2k/XVFN-pTr4Xc/s1600/IMG_1163.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabin interior - many have been converted to dormitories to accommodate more guests</td></tr>
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By and large Phantom Ranch exists much the same as it did when first built, although some changes have been made. This includes the installation of such creature comforts as evaporative coolers in the cabins and cantina, as well as electricity for lights and modern plumbing.<br />
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Food and lodging are available by reservation only, as all goods must be delivered in and out of the Ranch via pack mule and space is limited. Incidentals like snacks and beverages are sold to non-guests after the Dining Hall has served scheduled breakfasts or dinners, so hungry or thirsty backpackers are not left out entirely. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MDWYFBVEb9U/U8F2ZXvPkdI/AAAAAAAAP20/xDQ4c0Mo1yY/s1600/IMG_1165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MDWYFBVEb9U/U8F2ZXvPkdI/AAAAAAAAP20/xDQ4c0Mo1yY/s1600/IMG_1165.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cantina at Phantom Ranch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jz4xaqVH8DQ/U8F2b8m0EgI/AAAAAAAAP28/AQ7rBfQKZbE/s1600/IMG_1167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jz4xaqVH8DQ/U8F2b8m0EgI/AAAAAAAAP28/AQ7rBfQKZbE/s1600/IMG_1167.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabins and dormitories at Phantom Ranch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-spSGcxFmQ4M/U8F2gF39I6I/AAAAAAAAP3M/nHHLEAgRA3s/s1600/IMG_1172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-spSGcxFmQ4M/U8F2gF39I6I/AAAAAAAAP3M/nHHLEAgRA3s/s1600/IMG_1172.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up to the South Rim from Phantom Ranch</td></tr>
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Hikers also come into the area using the South Kaibab trail, the other "corridor" route that crosses the River to the east on the <b>Black Bridge</b>. Many visitors to the bottom use South Kaibab as the descent portion of the hike, as it is somewhat shorter at 7 miles (although steeper) from the rim, and hike out on the Bright Angel because of available water and potential for shade.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7EsyAf38a4Q/U8F2z2QAolI/AAAAAAAAP4M/gczEiTEfo9s/s1600/IMG_1185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7EsyAf38a4Q/U8F2z2QAolI/AAAAAAAAP4M/gczEiTEfo9s/s1600/IMG_1185.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking east towards the Black Bridge and South Kaibab trail</td></tr>
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Of course for some the visit here is not simply an "in and out" experience. The North Kaibab trail continues up Bright Angel Creek for 14 miles to the North Rim, and many backpackers use the campgrounds at Bright Angel and Cottonwood to complete a rim-to-rim hike. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OQUZflWDE2k/U8F21fCHiUI/AAAAAAAAP4U/F86CO3QG140/s1600/IMG_1190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OQUZflWDE2k/U8F21fCHiUI/AAAAAAAAP4U/F86CO3QG140/s1600/IMG_1190.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning light illuminates the Inner Gorge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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All in all the area around the Ranch is very scenic and comfortable, with stands of
mature cottonwood trees lining the banks of cool Bright Angel Creek.
With a developed campground or a place to stay featuring 4 walls, a
roof, and climate controlled comfort there is something for just about
anyone intrepid enough to make the hike to the bottom.<br />
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That said, with all the options to make the visit as pleasant
as possible, you still have to get here, and more importantly you have
to get out. As hard as it may be to make the long trek up and down the
Canyon walls, at least there is a wide, well used trail with some provision for water and shade. Go ahead - try it. You may surprise yourself.<br />
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<br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-1217559086441764362014-07-04T13:35:00.000-07:002014-07-04T22:43:48.344-07:00Lower Antelope Canyon - Ancient Deserts, Modern Art, Many PeopleSlot canyons are a but one manifestation of many different spectacular erosional features found throughout the Colorado Plateau, but they can be among the most magical of places. Here you'll find constricted channels where walls of polished rock form passages framing a narrow strip of sky, places where the sun is an infrequent visitor. The term "slot" refers to the vertical dimension of the canyon, defined as being significantly deeper than it is wide.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EJmDv_n24L0/U53qJLBMWZI/AAAAAAAAPw4/DWqXEloXSUI/s1600/IMG_1085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EJmDv_n24L0/U53qJLBMWZI/AAAAAAAAPw4/DWqXEloXSUI/s1600/IMG_1085.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lower Antelope Canyon from above</td></tr>
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There are plenty of canyons in the slickrock wilderness of the Four Corners region, but perhaps the best known are <b>Upper</b> and <b>Lower Antelope Canyon</b> on the <b>Navajo Reservation</b> near the city of <b>Page, Arizona</b>. Not much to look at at from above perhaps, but hidden in the depths are twisting and fluted corridors of hazy golden light that attract thousands of visitors every year.<br />
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I usually avoid places as well known as Antelope Canyon particularly due to their popularity, but they are an essential feature of the southwestern landscape and should be included in the extensive catalog of spectacular earthly art. Just be warned if you go - this experience will be shared with many others, and photographers will need to exercise great patience to capture shots without human intrusion.<br />
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<b>Lower Antelope Canyon</b><br />
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Page is a town created specifically by the <b>Bureau of Reclamation</b> during the construction of nearby <b>Glen Canyon Dam</b>. Today the city functions as a hub for recreation on <b>Lake Powell,</b> the reservoir associated with the dam on the <b>Colorado River</b>. Located just south of the Arizona - Utah border on the Navajo Nation, Page sits atop <b>Manson Mesa</b> in a high desert environment of sand and slickrock.<br />
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To reach Antelope Canyon visitors will travel east from Page about 2.5 miles on <b>U.S. Highway 98</b>. Both Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon are administered by <b>Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department</b>. All visitors must pay the required fees and be accompanied by guides, which are located on site. For information on cost, hours of operation, and permits for specialty photography (beyond casual picture taking) see the Parks website <a href="http://www.navajonationparks.org/htm/antelopecanyon2.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Also be aware that the Canyons may be closed at any time during the summer due to the threat of flash flooding. In 1997 eleven sightseers were swept away and killed when a thunderstorm dropped heavy rain upstream. To prevent similar tragedies tours are suspended whenever there is a likelihood of a storm in the area.<br />
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On arrival to the dirt parking area you'll see the large <b>Navajo Power Generating Station</b> looming over the landscape. Naive tourists who inquire as to its purpose are often told that the area is so dry that it is a "cloud factory". The joke is on us however, as the coal fired plant emits a haze which often obscures formerly crystal clear western skies.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-82BXD3kzObI/U53pEJxpR4I/AAAAAAAAPqI/y2MeBY3zVpw/s1600/IMG_0971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-82BXD3kzObI/U53pEJxpR4I/AAAAAAAAPqI/y2MeBY3zVpw/s1600/IMG_0971.JPG" height="261" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Navajo Generating Station</td></tr>
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There are two tour companies to choose from in the parking area. Apparently one of them is operating illegally, although if that is the case I'm not sure how they are able to do so. The company I went with (legally) is called <b>Ken's Lower Antelope Canyon Tours</b>. The structure shown in the photo below will soon be replaced by a newer and more permanent facility.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ken's Lower Antelope Canyon Tours (note new building in background)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Visitors are taken in groups of 20, with trips entering the canyon every few minutes. Before departing for the entrance, the guide runs through a quick list of prohibited activities. Once the introduction is complete the group heads across the sandy expanse of desert for the northern end of the slot.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rules</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading out</td></tr>
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Upon reaching the canyon, visitors plunge into the murky depths on a series of steep and sometimes slick (due to sand) staircases and ladders. Waiting your turn to descend you get the sense that a lot of people are moved through the canyon every day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xG7FtssSEFM/U53pL82h9GI/AAAAAAAAPqo/6iXFT2PsCzM/s1600/IMG_0975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xG7FtssSEFM/U53pL82h9GI/AAAAAAAAPqo/6iXFT2PsCzM/s1600/IMG_0975.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the entrance</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going down backwards is easier due to slick stair treads</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">People stack up on the way down</td></tr>
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Once at the bottom, eyes take a few moments to adjust to lower light levels. The canyon is so narrow that the sun almost never penetrates directly into the chasm, and what illumination exists is reflected off golden sandstone. It is this particular quality that provides a colorful and rich ambient texture to photos.<br />
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I am a casual photographer at best, but can certainly understand why a serious photophile would want to spend hours trying to capture the textures and light that every bend and twist in the canyon offers. Because of time constraints the tour group moves through fairly quickly, and the next group is not far behind. I found myself lagging as far back as I could to take pictures with no humans in the frame.<br />
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Of course there were others of a like mind who wanted to shoo everyone through so they could take the perfect image, and even a few small groups of what looked like professional photographers with a private guide giving tips and tricks for the best shot. Altogether there was not a hint of a wilderness experience to be found, but then again I knew that's not what Antelope Canyon is all about.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing back into the harsh light of day</td></tr>
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I guess I would have to say seeing Antelope Canyon was worthwhile, if only for the chance to take some great pictures. Unfortunately it is not a place to linger and contemplate the work of nature, although it is certainly worthy of such. It is a visual spectacle, and like some National Parks there is no choice but to share it with throngs of others who have also come to appreciate the view. <br />
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I went, I saw, I took pictures. One thing is certain - my next slot canyon experience will be a much more personal experience. And I might share it with you. Maybe. Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-19527038522732435762014-05-14T20:27:00.001-07:002019-03-30T21:47:31.604-07:00Grand Canyon - The Nankoweap Trail<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6y91to_M4E/U1yixAtNutI/AAAAAAAAPhE/peBDxBh0pos/s1600/IMG_0938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6y91to_M4E/U1yixAtNutI/AAAAAAAAPhE/peBDxBh0pos/s1600/IMG_0938.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorado River in Marble Canyon</td></tr>
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<i>"The most difficult named trail". "Not suitable for anyone with a fear of heights". "Lots of exposure". "Waterless". "Not recommended for solo hikers".</i><br />
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<b>Nankoweap Trail</b> has an impressive resume of dire warnings, and in general I advise first time visitors to consider them carefully. Even so, having hiked all the named trails and routes in Grand Canyon at one time or another, in my opinion Nankoweap is really no worse than most.<br />
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As I see it the biggest challenge is not that there is exposure, it's there's so much of it, occurring in both the long traverse of the <b>Supai</b> layer before <b>Tilted Mesa</b>, and again on the relatively short and steep descent from the mesa to the drop through the <b>Tapeats</b> formation. There's literally a five mile stretch where a slip and fall would likely result in serious bodily harm or death, and anyone who is obsessed with the probability will not have an enjoyable hike. Otherwise it's the Grand Canyon, where every outing into the backcountry is a calculated risk.<br />
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Like most trails in the Canyon, Nankoweap arose from a path used by natives to reach the River. The<b> Powell Expedition of 1882-1883</b> is credited with improving the route so that the team's geologist, a fellow named <b>Charles Doolittle Walcott </b>could bring instruments and horses into the area to study the rocks. His findings resulted in a series of well known scientific papers, and eventually Mr. Walcott went on to succeed <b>J.W. Powell</b> as head of the <b>U.S. Geological Survey</b>.<br />
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In later years the trail gained notoriety as part of the so called "<b>Horsethief Trail</b>" which was allegedly used by rustlers in Utah to drive stolen livestock across the Canyon into northern Arizona. Given the current state of the path it is hard to believe any animal would willingly make the trip, not to mention how riders on horseback would negotiate some sections, but things may well have been different in the last century.<br />
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The word Nankoweap has two different attributions. In one story John Wesley Powell is said to have used the Paiute word for "place that echoes" to name the canyon, while another has a similar sounding Indian word which means "people who were killed". In this version the word <b>Ninkuipi</b> was given to this place to honor Paiutes who died in an attack by raiding Apaches. Either way there is no mistaking the influence native people left on the area. More on that later.<br />
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<b>Getting There</b><br />
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There are two approaches to the Nankoweap trail. The most reliable year-round access is from <b>FR 8910</b> through <b>House Rock Valley</b>, which comes in at a lower elevation and usually has less snow in the winter. The other way in is from <b>FR 610</b> off the <b>North Kaibab</b> plateau. The road here is affected by the seasonal closure of <b>State Route 67</b> (usually mid-October through mid-May), as well as other factors such as fire and fallen trees. If using FR 610 be sure to get current information from the <b>North Kaibab Ranger District</b> as restrictions may be in place.<br />
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These two roads access either end of<b> Saddle Mountain Trail No. 57</b>, which links House Rock Valley and the North Kaibab. The junction with Nankoweap occurs at roughly the halfway point along the trail. Entering from FR 610, the Saddle Mountain trail begins high on the rim at 8800 feet, and drops over the course of 3 miles to the Nankoweap trailhead at 7640 feet. The positive here is that the beginning of the trip is all downhill, but hikers should consider that the extra 1200 feet will need to be tackled at the end.<br />
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Using the House Rock Valley access point, Trail 57 climbs 3.5 miles from 6800 feet to the beginning of Nankoweap, with an overall elevation gain of 1400 feet before reaching the rim of Grand Canyon. The initial uphill climb may be challenging to some as packs are heaviest at the start of a trip, but consider the benefit of knowing the last leg of the hike out will be somewhat easier. This post addresses a hike using the House Rock Valley entry and exit.<br />
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<b>Other Considerations</b><br />
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Whichever end of the Saddle Mountain trail you use to reach the Nankoweap, the overall distance to the <b>Colorado River</b> is 14 miles. There is no reliable source of water until Nankoweap Creek at around 12.5 miles. While it possible to hike the entire distance in a day, the journey will be much more enjoyable if you allow for 2 days in each direction. Since water is unavailable in the upper Canyon, plan to carry or cache sufficient supplies for dry camps coming and going. <b>Marion Point</b> and Tilted Mesa make good destinations for overnight camping, with more choices for camping available at Tilted Mesa.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helicopters fly a fixed route over Nankoweap during the day</td></tr>
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Another item worth mentioning is that the entire route lies directly in the path of the designated air tour corridor, and from sunrise to sunset the noise of fixed wing aircraft and helicopters will likely be present.<br />
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While certainly a distraction at times, the flights are far enough overhead (Federal law requires helicopters to stay 800 feet above the rim, while fixed wing planes must remain even higher at 1200 feet) to mostly be a minimal nuisance.<br />
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<b>House Rock Valley/Saddle Mountain Trail 57</b><br />
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From the parking area at the Saddle Mountain trailhead, the eponymous geographical feature rises above. Starting with a deceptively gentle grade in a pinyon-juniper woodland, the path climbs in a generally southern direction along an old road.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saddle Mountain Trail No. 57 from House Rock Valley</td></tr>
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This continues for nearly a mile before making a turn to the east, where the first views into the chasm of <b>Marble Canyon</b> appear below. Towering above the relatively flat House Rock Valley is the 1200 foot high escarpment of the <b>Vermilion Cliffs</b> to the north, and the smaller but no less dramatic <b>Echo Cliffs</b> on the northeast side. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vermilion Cliffs rise above House Rock Valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marble Canyon and Echo Cliffs</td></tr>
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After climbing around 350 feet or so the trail makes an abrupt decent into a ravine, losing all the elevation gained to this point before beginning to ascend once more.<br />
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The trail continues upward through a mostly ponderosa pine forest, at first with a gentler grade in the dry creekbed. There is still over 800 feet to climb though, and soon enough the path obliges with a sharper incline and few switchbacks.<br />
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Stopping frequently to rest and catch a breath in the shade of mature ponderosa trees, hikers may note evidence of the 1960 Saddle Mountain fire which burned around 8000 acres. The vegetation here has made some progress in returning with <b>Gambel Oak</b>, <b>manzanita</b>, and small jack pines filling in the understory of the forest.<br />
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Eventually the trail begins to level off as it approaches the rim. In a half mile or so you'll reach the intersection of Nankoweap with Trail 57 coming from the North Kaibab.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saddle Mountain Trail No. 57 Junction</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nankoweap Trailhead - Elevation 7640'</td></tr>
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After so much up, it's time to go down. The first descent is relatively short but steep, a passage through <b>Esplanade</b> sandstone which leads directly to a lengthy traverse of the <b>Supai</b> layer below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dropping in through the Esplanade sandstone</td></tr>
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Once you reach the Supai, the fun begins. This long (5 miles) and somewhat torturous section is where people experience the most anxiety, as a path that is often no wider than a footprint winds over and through red rocks on the edge of the canyon, with drop offs into empty space mere feet away.<br />
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I am an experienced Canyon hiker with many miles under my boots, and exposure in general does not bother me. There are always risks associated with hiking the wilderness of Grand Canyon, and falls from great heights are only one aspect. That said this trail is really not for the faint of heart, particularly if vertigo an issue.<br />
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The traverse features not only narrow trails on the edge of certain injury or death, but also a lot of up and down. Looking at a topographic map, the line representing the trail offers no clue as to the truly undulating nature of the Nankoweap, and it's for this reason among others that I recommend breaking up the trip into multiple days.<br />
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A welcome respite from the contour through the Supai comes at Marion Point, where a ridge extends into the Canyon and offers a small site for one or two tents. Here it is easy to get confused as well - the trail does not continue along the ridge; instead it turns back to the north and continues the traverse. Just past Marion Point at the head of a drainage is a small seasonal seep, which is only likely to have water after a very wet winter.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marion Point</td></tr>
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More exposure and more up and over continues until just before Tilted Mesa, where the trail finally makes a move towards the depths below. Tilted Mesa is another ridge extending out into the Canyon, with just enough of a slope to accommodate a trail through the always challenging <b>Redwall</b> formation. Here you'll find a few good camping spots along the ridge that make a suitable place to divide the trip.<br />
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The views from Tilted Mesa are pretty awesome as well, with the dry drainage of Little Nankoweap Creek to the east, and the upper watershed of Nankoweap to the southwest.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Nankoweap</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nankoweap Creek from Tilted Mesa</td></tr>
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From Tilted Mesa on the path finally begins to get serious about losing
elevation, beginning with a drop through the remainder of the Supai. A
couple of rock bands present a bit of a challenge, but old snags in
proximity to the descent are helpful in making the downclimb. Soon the
trail reaches the top of the Redwall, following the ridge a bit longer before heading down. The Redwall descent here is comparatively easy, especially relative to the sections immediately afterward.<br />
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There is a mercifully short but somewhat sketchy drop through a layer of yellow shale that has a very loose and steep surface, and hikers with heavy packs will be glad for a walking stick or trekking poles.<br />
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When that charming passage is finished, another delightful section begins where the path plunges steeply down a ridge of loose rock. There is not a switchback to be seen in this part of the trail, and great care is needed to avoid a slip.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, that's a trail</td></tr>
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After the abrupt drop the trail resumes a slightly more reasonable descent, although still with areas of concern where hikers should exercise caution. There is a 1/2 mile traverse of Bright Angel shale where the trail is narrow with significant exposure. In many respects this area offers more challenge than the Supai, mostly because of a downward grade and loose material.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail is barely visible high on the slopes of Bright Angel shale</td></tr>
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Once out of the Bright Angel, the Nankoweap begins a final descent through the <b>Tapeats</b> sandstone.<br />
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The hard part is finally over, as the trail winds down into a drainage. The exit onto a broad terrace of depositional material above Nankoweap Creek signals the final approach. Cottonwood trees in the streambed signal the presence of water and shade, and weary hikers can look forward to rest and relaxation in their midst.<br />
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Several good camping spots can be found on both sides of the trail confluence. Water flows year-round in Nankoweap Creek, with springs located above and below the junction.<br />
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Hikers may also elect to continue to the Colorado River to camp on a beach. Fair warning: those who do should know it is likely their spot will be overrun with river runners, since Nankoweap is very popular with river trips due to the granaries and large beach. I prefer camping along the creek where you can rest assured of peace and quiet, and reaching the River is easy enough with a short day hike.<br />
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Once you've settled in, it's time to hike downstream to visit the River and the famous granaries located in the Redwall above the Colorado. There is no established trail, but multiple paths meander in and out of the streambed, and crossing the creek occurs hundreds of time along the way.<br />
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There are small springs located at many places where water enters the creek out of fissures in the rock. These provide habitat for moisture loving plants that only exist with direct access to water - look 10 feet on either side of the creekbed and all vegetation is of the desert adapted variety.<br />
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After a pleasant walk of about a mile and a half along the creek, the mouth of Nankoweap widens and the towering walls of Marble Canyon are revealed ahead.</div>
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At the Colorado a network of river runner created trails leads to the beaches where many trips stop to visit the granaries or spend the night. Climbing up and out of the streambed to the south (right) will lead to the trail we're interested in - the one which ascends steeply to the sheer Redwall where ancestral puebloan granaries are found.<br />
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The granaries are easy to spot, and the trail which leads there is steep with big steps. As you approach, there is another granary set into an alcove which has no apparent access.<br />
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These fascinating structures date back to a time around 800 - 900 years ago, when native peoples were farming creek and river deltas and storing corn and other food staples away from rodents and pests. Given their age and popularity with river trips, the granaries are in remarkable condition.<br />
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Perched high on the slope above the River, the ancestral storage site offers a panoramic view downstream, with a great ledge to sit upon while reflecting on the people who built it.<br />
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The gorge here is narrow compared to the sections downstream, and the sheer walls of Marble Canyon rise over 3000 feet above the River. Unlike the Canyon downstream, the space here is confined with only shallow benches to break the vertical relief.<br />
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Once you've had sufficient time to absorb the sights and sounds of Marble Canyon, it's time to return once more to isolated yet beautiful Nankoweap Creek.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scorpionweed</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Globe Mallow</td></tr>
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After a restful day and a rewarding day hike to the River, it's great to simply sit in camp and allow the hours to slip away unnoticed while the sun continues it's arc overhead. In this way it's possible to become part of the landscape, an object that belongs here as much as the rocks and trees which surround you.<br />
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You might even get lucky as a pair of mule deer walk within feet of your camp, untroubled by your presence and purpose. That's a great way to spend the day.<br />
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Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-3631489516311878272014-04-29T14:12:00.002-07:002014-04-29T17:52:14.346-07:00Grand Canyon - The North Bass Trail<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sy4UsWH8ffc/UxdxzMO1P6I/AAAAAAAAPWQ/0I7uqct0MfE/s200/Bass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sy4UsWH8ffc/UxdxzMO1P6I/AAAAAAAAPWQ/0I7uqct0MfE/s400/Bass.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">William Wallace Bass - NAU Library Collection</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Few explorers and entrepreneurs had as much impact and influence on early Canyon visitors as <span style="color: red;"><b><a href="http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org/gcps/bass_bio.htm">William Wallace Bass</a></b></span>. His arrival at the rim in 1883 marked the beginning of a long and successful enterprise that included mining, farming, tourism, writing, trail and road building, and advocating for native inhabitants.<br />
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His years long association with the region resulted in many natural features being named for him, including the subject of this post, the <b>North Bass</b> trail.<br />
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The North Bass trail was constructed in the 1890s primarily to access various mining claims north of the river, but it was also used by Bass to conduct tours to <b>Point Sublime</b>. When it was completed, together with the <b>South Bass</b> trail it became part of the first developed rim to rim trail at Grand Canyon.<br />
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In the beginning a crude wooden ferry was used to cross the river, but eventually William Bass built a tramway to transport visitors. He also built a tent camp at <b>Shinumo Creek</b>, where he tended a garden and orchard to provide food for friends and family.<br />
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The completion of the railroad from <b>Williams</b> to the present day <b>South Rim Village</b> in 1901 and the subsequent construction of the <b>El Tovar </b>hotel in 1905 was the beginning of the end for the Bass empire. Ease of access by train and more modern lodging options diverted most tourists away from the rustic charms of Bass Camp, and after William retired from his business interests at the Canyon in 1923 the North Bass trail swiftly fell into disrepair.<br />
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Over the ensuing years the North Bass gained a reputation as one of the most challenging trails as rockfalls, erosion, and fire took their toll on the landscape. Fortunately in 2005 the National Park Service trail crews undertook the challenging task of reestablishing and repairing this historic route. Although still remote and relatively difficult, today the North Bass is a rewarding and scenic hike for experienced Canyon visitors.<br />
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</b> <b>Swamp Point</b><br />
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Just getting to the trail head provides challenges to those who wish to enjoy it. Like most North Rim trails, the North Bass is located far from developed areas of the National Park. The start and end on the <b>North Rim </b>of the <b>Kaibab Plateau</b> means it is likely to be snowbound much of the winter, as back roads are not plowed. Additionally access may not be available by vehicle until later in the spring as Forest Service and Park Service crews must clear any down trees before roads will open to public.<br />
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If that weren't enough, summer and fall bring the possibility of fire or early season snow, and those who have a trip planned are wise to check forecasts and closures just prior to departure.<br />
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I won't detail the directions to the trail here, as the Park Service includes fairly concise instructions with the issuance of a permit. I do strongly suggest a current map of the <b>North Kaibab Ranger District</b>, as much of the off highway travel occurs through the forest before reaching a gate at the National Park boundary. Also be aware that at large camping is possible anywhere on the National Forest, but once you pass the gate you may not stay the night on the rim (or in the Canyon) unless your permit specifically allows it.<br />
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Once in the Park the last 8 miles of the journey to the trail head are suitable for high clearance passenger cars, although the road is narrow in places. The southern terminus brings you to a location on the rim prosaically named <b>Swamp Point</b>. There is usually ample parking available adjacent to the trail head, although especially popular seasons may force you to leave the vehicle at one of the turnouts along the way.<br />
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</b> <b>The North Bass Trail</b><br />
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The trail into the Canyon and eventually the <b>Colorado River </b>is 14 miles one way, although anyone who only wishes to make the trip as far as the bed of Shinumo Creek can shave 2 miles off that total. It primarily follows the drainages of <b>White Creek</b> in the upper section and then Shinumo Creek nearly all the way to the river. As trails go it is not especially difficult, at least on the scale by which Canyon treks are measured. Sure, it goes way down and then climbs way up, and the path is often rocky and narrow with some exposure, but hey it's the CANYON.......<br />
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North Rim trails have two aspects to them that makes them different from South Rim routes. First, due to higher elevation and the process known as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headward_erosion" target="_blank">headward erosion</a> the trails are longer and farther away from the river. Second, because of a southern aspect they receive more sun and in some cases are more exposed. This makes them especially challenging as summer hiking destinations.<br />
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In the beginning the North Bass descends via switchbacks for a mile or so along a flank of <b>Muav Saddle</b>, which connects the sky island of <b>Powell Plateau</b> to the rim. Here the views extend mostly to the northwest and the prominence of <b>Steamboat Mountain</b> looming over the <b>Esplanade</b>. In this region the Canyon makes a wide turn to the north after a mostly east/west orientation, and the bulk of the Powell Plateau is the landform around which it curves.<br />
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At Muav Saddle a trail junction offers the hiker a couple of choices: Continue into the Canyon or climb up to Powell Plateau. A spur also branches off and leads a short distance to what is known as the <b>Teddy Roosevelt Cabin</b>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CA81yepDiig/UlOXe18MtNI/AAAAAAAAPH8/yiNtv2ftBdU/s800/IMG_0576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CA81yepDiig/UlOXe18MtNI/AAAAAAAAPH8/yiNtv2ftBdU/s800/IMG_0576.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The building was constructed in 1925 as a patrol cabin for the newly created Grand Canyon National Park. Although the 26th President of the U.S. never actually slept in it, it was built on the same spot where Roosevelt had camped in 1913 while hunting cougars in the area. <br />
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Somewhat ironically it was Teddy's love of bagging big game animals which ultimately led to his declaring much of the North Rim as the<b> Grand Canyon Game Reserve</b> in 1906, which was a precursor to what would eventually become a National Park in 1919.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Muav Saddle - Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Continuing the descent from the saddle, the trail drops quickly through the <b>Kaibab</b> and <b>Toroweap</b> formations before making a 1/4 mile traverse below the <b>Coconino</b> sandstone.<br />
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A fairly reliable spring or seep is found at the base of the Coconino, and at this point the trail begins a quick 1 mile descent to the bed of White Creek.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Bass trail descending into head of White's Creek</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>The trail stays in the bed of the creek for quite a while, with lots of vegetation and boulder hopping. Although not difficult, hikers will need to pay attention to the path as it winds in and out of the drainage and through the brush.<br />
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After a couple of miles, the trail climbs out of the creekbed and begins to contour along the <b>Supai</b> layer just above the <b>Redwall</b>, crossing a series of 4 drainages. Just beyond the last drainage the path begins the steep drop through the imposing limestone barrier.<br />
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At the base of the Redwall the path resumes in the bed of the creek. Although water is usually present in White Creek, it is intermittent with stream flows occasionally disappearing from the surface.<br />
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Once again the trail follows the creek, this time confined to a narrow channel surrounded by towering walls of Redwall limestone.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pJTCOgO02UM/UlOXyIDYrbI/AAAAAAAAPJM/C4wGe-ub0o8/s800/IMG_0611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pJTCOgO02UM/UlOXyIDYrbI/AAAAAAAAPJM/C4wGe-ub0o8/s800/IMG_0611.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AN45OUbhyMc/UxdrneQTtvI/AAAAAAAAPT0/EGmw1AOi59k/s800/P1010339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AN45OUbhyMc/UxdrneQTtvI/AAAAAAAAPT0/EGmw1AOi59k/s800/P1010339.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Creek below the Redwall - Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Downstream the canyon opens up again and the trail once more winds in and out of the creek bed, with lots of crossings and boulder hopping to keep hikers on their toes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7K0UfaSmlyo/UlOX1Q2u4RI/AAAAAAAAPJc/4zQLxCSoSLw/s800/IMG_0616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7K0UfaSmlyo/UlOX1Q2u4RI/AAAAAAAAPJc/4zQLxCSoSLw/s800/IMG_0616.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5PGpBATGYhI/UxdrrBsCOqI/AAAAAAAAPUE/aMh4SGixj94/s800/P1010345.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Creek below the Redwall- Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnHjH9oI-Otaj21mKAnoP_nmTGs-wFM1yIUkDSTC3y18ZLL6XWWxtZI_VqBz_i6Le1zC2hp85kBijCUEpuRi5JVvgyMWNbqU2FBZD2zX11-km9d83Aq6EGCV3rEDnZrPjVjcSWkks4cos/s800/IMG_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnHjH9oI-Otaj21mKAnoP_nmTGs-wFM1yIUkDSTC3y18ZLL6XWWxtZI_VqBz_i6Le1zC2hp85kBijCUEpuRi5JVvgyMWNbqU2FBZD2zX11-km9d83Aq6EGCV3rEDnZrPjVjcSWkks4cos/s800/IMG_0617.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><br />
There is a short bypass (1/2 mile) of a pouroff in the <b>Bright Angel</b> shale that briefly takes the trail out of the drainage and onto the <b>Tonto</b> before dropping back into the streambed. From here it continues a long and meandering negotiation of White Creek until finally climbing back out to the Tonto platform to the west.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-29inzArXtdY/UxdrvS0ZPvI/AAAAAAAAPUU/0ukwu0Hc3Gg/s800/P1010348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-29inzArXtdY/UxdrvS0ZPvI/AAAAAAAAPUU/0ukwu0Hc3Gg/s800/P1010348.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The North Bass climbs onto the Tonto Platform - Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TVWqnJGMXtc/UlOX8nABz0I/AAAAAAAAPJ8/3PRjk-S11EI/s800/IMG_0621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TVWqnJGMXtc/UlOX8nABz0I/AAAAAAAAPJ8/3PRjk-S11EI/s800/IMG_0621.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The Tonto is an extensive bench formation found throughout Grand Canyon composed of eroded Bright Angel shale which rests on the <b>Tapeats</b> sandstone layer below. The relatively level and broad nature of the Tonto makes for excellent (but waterless and shadeless) hiking, and much of the east/west travel that is possible in the Canyon occurs here. The North Bass also makes good use of the Tonto to bypass a pouroff in White Creek and deliver the hiker to the final descent into Shinumo Creek.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The North Bass drops into Shinumo Creek - Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N6akRurck90/UlOYCWB4_2I/AAAAAAAAPKU/6Hqfh_si5LQ/s800/IMG_0629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N6akRurck90/UlOYCWB4_2I/AAAAAAAAPKU/6Hqfh_si5LQ/s800/IMG_0629.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z2oiD0KfO1M/Uxdrx11znhI/AAAAAAAAPUo/_0hGKyPd2wk/s800/P1010355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z2oiD0KfO1M/Uxdrx11znhI/AAAAAAAAPUo/_0hGKyPd2wk/s800/P1010355.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rocky switchbacks leading to Shinumo Creek - Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A series of steep and loose switchbacks mark the last mile or so of trail into Shinumo Creek. The sight of verdant cottonwood trees and streamside vegetation is alluring, and hikers who plan to camp along the creek will be glad to see their destination after a long and tiring journey.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--WIvdZ4rW_M/UxdrzM-26FI/AAAAAAAAPUs/KlDUt67nCtQ/s800/P1010357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--WIvdZ4rW_M/UxdrzM-26FI/AAAAAAAAPUs/KlDUt67nCtQ/s800/P1010357.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shinumo Creek - Photo courtesy of Mike Wolf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>At the creek the year-round stream flows vigorously towards the Colorado River. Several campsites can be found near the trail junction with the creek bottom, but they offer little shade. Small parties can explore further downstream to find more attractive options.<br />
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Staying at the creek is just one option. Hikers can also continue 1.5 miles downstream to the Colorado, although it is likely you would end up sharing a beach with larger river parties. I recommend setting up camp at the creek and making a hike to the River, which not only assures more privacy but makes for a great layover day.<br />
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The setting at Shinumo Creek is also a worthwhile destination in and of itself, and just sitting back to absorb the grandeur would be a good choice for the visitor.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stone hoodoos - harder "cap" rocks protects the softer rock below</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>The trip to the River is desirable not only for the journey and the surrounding scenery, but along the way you'll see the historical remnants of William Bass's Shinumo Camp.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCMt4KwLMRg/UlOYNV-cvJI/AAAAAAAAPLE/qeIrGrXL58M/s800/IMG_0643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xCMt4KwLMRg/UlOYNV-cvJI/AAAAAAAAPLE/qeIrGrXL58M/s800/IMG_0643.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artifacts at Shinumo Camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>There is one detail worth mentioning if you choose to hike to the River. The lower end of Shinumo Creek has a large pouroff, and getting around it requires a detour which includes climbing a saddle some 700 feet in each direction. Of course if it were easy this wouldn't be the Grand Canyon.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kcjIUm_v-XU/UlOYQcdT42I/AAAAAAAAPLU/gMicBxlI8E4/s800/IMG_0654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kcjIUm_v-XU/UlOYQcdT42I/AAAAAAAAPLU/gMicBxlI8E4/s800/IMG_0654.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Even with the added effort, a hike along the creek to the River offers a chance to see beautiful scenes like this inviting plunge pool - a great place to cool off on a warm summer day.<br />
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Like many North Rim trails, you have to want to hike the North Bass. The best times for experiencing the North Bass are also the times when access may be impossible due to weather or road conditions. Also, because the window for the optimum hiking conditions are so narrow and the North Bass use area is one unit, you may have lots of competition for a backcountry permit. <br />
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But if chance is on your side and the weather holds, like some of the earliest visitors to the region you may be fortunate enough to experience one of the more remote and beautiful canyons found in the Park.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lMKbH4XlJKI/UlOY0a94KtI/AAAAAAAAPN0/CJFxOV-ze6M/s800/IMG_0725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="1.5" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lMKbH4XlJKI/UlOY0a94KtI/AAAAAAAAPN0/CJFxOV-ze6M/s800/IMG_0725.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-69304480842459607292013-07-03T15:04:00.000-07:002013-07-07T15:46:01.838-07:00A Range of Options - Exploring the Henry Mountains Part II<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivsKNdfpz2I/TlWSepGbmfI/AAAAAAAAKC4/Ca-KY2TftIQ/s800/IMG_3853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" magnifyby="" height="210" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivsKNdfpz2I/TlWSepGbmfI/AAAAAAAAKC4/Ca-KY2TftIQ/s800/IMG_3853.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bull Creek Pass - 10,500 feet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>My second favorite activity on public lands is cruising scenic dirt roads in remote locations, discovering new, unpopulated areas that warrant exploration. What's my favorite, you ask? Parking the truck and using my feet to wander some trail or path that takes me even further into places I've never been.<br />
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This post is about one such outing that took place on an excursion into the <b>Unknown Mountains</b>, aka the <b>Henrys</b>. Located in southeastern Utah, these rugged and rarely visited peaks provide respite from high temperatures when canyons and deserts are baking under the summer sun. To view the beginning of this journey, check out <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2013/06/a-range-of-options-exploring-henry.html" target="_blank">Part I</a>, which describes a drive to <b>Bull Creek Pass</b>.<br />
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The elevation at the pass is 10,500 feet above sea level, and is the starting point for a moderate hike to the summit of <b>Mt. Ellen</b>, the highest point in the Henrys at 11,522 feet. Although I can't seem to locate mileage for this particular hike, it can't be much more than 2 miles or so each way. Any real challenge to the trail has nothing to do with steepness, although those unused to high elevations will undoubtedly struggle a bit - but I'm getting ahead of myself.<br />
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A split rail fence at the pass marks an otherwise undistinguished trailhead. The way ahead is obvious for much of the trip. Following the ridgeline, the path begins with the destination in plain view. At this elevation the vegetation is sub-alpine, with small grasses and forbs being practically the only ground cover. There are some stunted, wind blasted trees tucked into hollows along the way, but for the most part the terrain is devoid of anything taller than a shrub.<br />
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Like many above treeline hikes, exposure is significant during thunderstorms. Through the months of July, August, and September anyone attempting to reach the summit should get an early start, and be well off the ridge before any electrical activity begins. Winds are also typically quite strong along the crests, making spring hikes more challenging from the standpoint of potential hypothermia. Although the risk of serious injury is relatively minor, the environment here does pose challenges for the unprepared, and the remoteness of the setting means help would take a lot longer to arrive.<br />
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As you can imagine, the lack of trees also affords excellent panoramas of everything on the horizon. The views are quite distracting, and more than once I found myself stumbling along as I tried to look around me instead of where I was supposed to be going.<br />
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Despite being mesmerized by scenery progress is quick as the grade is mellow and the trail easy to follow.<br />
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The only reason I'd rate this hike as challenging is because it traverses large and unavoidable fields of what I call "ankle-eating rocks". For the most part the stones are stable and at rest, but it is advisable to pick your way through these sections with care to avoid a sprain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ankle eating rocks</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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With a steady climb the path soon reaches the ridge, where it seems to vanish. Not to worry though - the way is straightforward.<br />
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There are actually three distinct high points along the crest. Looking ahead it appears as though the foremost peak is the target, but Mt Ellen proper lies beyond.<br />
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I had lost the trail upon reaching the spine, but elected to forge on anyway across uneven terrain. Nearing the first "false" summit the way is barricaded by a steep slope of dreaded ankle eating rocks. Making careful selection of foot placement, I scrambled upwards. As I went I noticed a curious phenomena - the stones had a ringing quality as they shifted and collided with my passage, and I wondered if they had a high metallic content.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2S0-HW_c52Q/TlWSsML4Z5I/AAAAAAAAKDU/lQt-VwG6HEU/s800/IMG_3873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2S0-HW_c52Q/TlWSsML4Z5I/AAAAAAAAKDU/lQt-VwG6HEU/s800/IMG_3873.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
At the apex of this first point is a very large cairn. I suppose it is natural to make use of the overly abundant materials at hand to mark the spot, but for what reason? I wonder if the folks who built it mistakenly believed they had reached Mt. Ellen, or maybe it was just for fun.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rW-EWEmJZI0/TlWStftaCcI/AAAAAAAAKDY/kCM4v22lcZ4/s800/IMG_3874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rW-EWEmJZI0/TlWStftaCcI/AAAAAAAAKDY/kCM4v22lcZ4/s800/IMG_3874.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Even though this is not the highest point, it still offers an unlimited survey of the entire horizon, and makes a good place to pause for reflection.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qC2AN1KFN5o/TlWSumRBUII/AAAAAAAAKDg/uWdUOXBe65g/s800/IMG_3875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qC2AN1KFN5o/TlWSumRBUII/AAAAAAAAKDg/uWdUOXBe65g/s800/IMG_3875.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view north to Bull Mountain</td></tr>
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Once again the trail is nowhere to seen, but the lack of a path is not a problem where this hike is concerned. Basically continue along the ridge, picking the easiest line through large sections of loose rock.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aNBKmKcWe30/TlWS0KqZJGI/AAAAAAAAKDs/w___DZSJG_k/s800/IMG_3895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aNBKmKcWe30/TlWS0KqZJGI/AAAAAAAAKDs/w___DZSJG_k/s800/IMG_3895.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GRe5xlruPjw/TlWSwaxYmwI/AAAAAAAAKDk/iUHyBv9COHY/s800/IMG_3892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GRe5xlruPjw/TlWSwaxYmwI/AAAAAAAAKDk/iUHyBv9COHY/s800/IMG_3892.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Looking below me I spot a multitude of game trails criss-crossing the slopes. Apparently the creatures who call this place home are no better at finding the way than I am.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HaD7XF_7_cU/TlWSyaj2vWI/AAAAAAAAKDo/P3r1CVtszUw/s800/IMG_3894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HaD7XF_7_cU/TlWSyaj2vWI/AAAAAAAAKDo/P3r1CVtszUw/s800/IMG_3894.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Persistent scrambling leads to the goal - the summit of Mt. Ellen. Here another rock pile awaits the few travelers who make the journey, although this one is much less ostentatious.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PlClygozguc/TlWS1s_PpgI/AAAAAAAAKDw/dnzBGI2Hrqw/s800/IMG_3897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PlClygozguc/TlWS1s_PpgI/AAAAAAAAKDw/dnzBGI2Hrqw/s800/IMG_3897.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The marker hides an unexpected human artifact at its base - a mailbox with an ABS register tube.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPqjwDmbmCM/TlWS3QU2MkI/AAAAAAAAKD0/SwQxPBDEKTw/s800/IMG_3899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPqjwDmbmCM/TlWS3QU2MkI/AAAAAAAAKD0/SwQxPBDEKTw/s800/IMG_3899.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I've hiked lots of places where a trail register exists to record completion of the journey, but rarely do these posterity archives have paper or usable pens. This was the case here as well, so I used a tiny margin on a previous entry to scribble my initials and date (I carry my own pen, thank you).<br />
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Of course noting my presence here is not the reason for the trip. I came mostly because I could, and knew if the weather was fair I would have unparalleled vistas of the landscape around me. On that point I was correct.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2LPQnBoRV8/TlWS4oyIZRI/AAAAAAAAKJE/LjW8Pe2QAFs/s800/IMG_3901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2LPQnBoRV8/TlWS4oyIZRI/AAAAAAAAKJE/LjW8Pe2QAFs/s800/IMG_3901.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUcyhS_vdtU/TlWS69HkdCI/AAAAAAAAKJM/vNoAjN-fQRo/s800/IMG_3913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUcyhS_vdtU/TlWS69HkdCI/AAAAAAAAKJM/vNoAjN-fQRo/s800/IMG_3913.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tilted formations in the Waterpocket Fold</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jr3GoZPZv2c/TlWS8BCOALI/AAAAAAAAKEE/11A-h6mORR8/s800/IMG_3918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jr3GoZPZv2c/TlWS8BCOALI/AAAAAAAAKEE/11A-h6mORR8/s800/IMG_3918.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WgqfUj8oIFk/TlWS-yk_OuI/AAAAAAAAKLI/RbuP9I0N8T8/s800/IMG_3934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WgqfUj8oIFk/TlWS-yk_OuI/AAAAAAAAKLI/RbuP9I0N8T8/s800/IMG_3934.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yngfCNTGmLI/Tlb1JyLSCYI/AAAAAAAAKKU/mYl_qPlcfw0/s800/IMG_3882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yngfCNTGmLI/Tlb1JyLSCYI/AAAAAAAAKKU/mYl_qPlcfw0/s800/IMG_3882.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tarantula Mesa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ow3n0l03k6M/Tlb1LmawFxI/AAAAAAAAKKY/k2P3_zyqmeQ/s800/IMG_3889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ow3n0l03k6M/Tlb1LmawFxI/AAAAAAAAKKY/k2P3_zyqmeQ/s800/IMG_3889.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powell Point, a readily identifiable landmark in the region</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hUqRXvHXzf0/Tlb_PlE4fNI/AAAAAAAAKK0/5yeiNl2rkEw/s800/IMG_3884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hUqRXvHXzf0/Tlb_PlE4fNI/AAAAAAAAKK0/5yeiNl2rkEw/s800/IMG_3884.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking south towards Mt. Pennellen</td></tr>
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Some enterprising soul constructed a makeshift seat using a large slab of rock. This impromptu throne served as an excellent vantage from which to take in the expanse of land and sky, and the occasional bird of prey soaring overhead.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--2tANoxGZc8/TlWS6EizUVI/AAAAAAAAKJI/3CyoJXJcApU/s800/IMG_3908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--2tANoxGZc8/TlWS6EizUVI/AAAAAAAAKJI/3CyoJXJcApU/s800/IMG_3908.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9LfPVrbQXis/Tlb1Nnxj7pI/AAAAAAAAKKs/_NBhsL-wBOc/s800/IMG_3916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9LfPVrbQXis/Tlb1Nnxj7pI/AAAAAAAAKKs/_NBhsL-wBOc/s800/IMG_3916.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
On this particular trip I was to see only 3 other people in the mountains, and none of them were hikers. This meant I had the highest point in southeastern Utah all to myself, and that was just fine. The vault of sky overhead and seemingly endless horizon provided all the distraction I needed. Thanks to an early start I was able to loiter in my seat of cool native stone for a good long while.<br />
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Unfortunately, the one factor that cut my visit short was the threat of possible thunderstorms later that day. Although towering cumulus clouds had yet to form, I knew it would be far safer to leave early than to overstay my welcome. Besides, I wanted to take my time on the way back down, and soak in more of the surroundings as I went.<br />
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The timing of the trip was in late summer, so most of the wildflowers had come and gone before my arrival. Even so, there were a few hardy and colorful exceptions to be found along the way.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atrkhMMRs_4/TlWS9e3eqcI/AAAAAAAAKJA/1Q5mFNTMILk/s800/IMG_3928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atrkhMMRs_4/TlWS9e3eqcI/AAAAAAAAKJA/1Q5mFNTMILk/s800/IMG_3928.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cuhj9MZB7JE/TlWS_-UtEmI/AAAAAAAAKEQ/zLTFj-mIxzo/s800/IMG_3940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cuhj9MZB7JE/TlWS_-UtEmI/AAAAAAAAKEQ/zLTFj-mIxzo/s800/IMG_3940.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-obWwBb8lSTY/TlWTH7I30JI/AAAAAAAAKEk/h7jpNDE8sR8/s800/IMG_3958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-obWwBb8lSTY/TlWTH7I30JI/AAAAAAAAKEk/h7jpNDE8sR8/s800/IMG_3958.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TgabBUJGMkw/TlWTDjPyQuI/AAAAAAAAKEY/yqCY3V_AUbg/s800/IMG_3943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TgabBUJGMkw/TlWTDjPyQuI/AAAAAAAAKEY/yqCY3V_AUbg/s800/IMG_3943.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KKVS2EMTT5w/TlWTJRoVslI/AAAAAAAAKEo/IMb-cvpKstk/s800/IMG_3960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KKVS2EMTT5w/TlWTJRoVslI/AAAAAAAAKEo/IMb-cvpKstk/s800/IMG_3960.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NCY278vjO6M/TlWTKbYfVyI/AAAAAAAAKEs/myuKN1G06f0/s800/IMG_3968.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NCY278vjO6M/TlWTKbYfVyI/AAAAAAAAKEs/myuKN1G06f0/s800/IMG_3968.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Oo0W9YIiiNQ/TlWI7iftaoI/AAAAAAAAKIQ/w4CJoVO5HEM/s800/IMG_3972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Oo0W9YIiiNQ/TlWI7iftaoI/AAAAAAAAKIQ/w4CJoVO5HEM/s800/IMG_3972.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
As I made my way down, I was finally able to discern the trail I had lost earlier located on the west flank of the peak. There were still a multitude of ankle eating rocks to contend with, but at least I did not have to wend my way through, around, and over random piles of stone as I had on the way up.<br />
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I made it back to the truck well before the promised rains arrived, and used the extra time to scout out another place to boondock for the night. Although I had accomplished a primary goal of the trip in hiking to the high point of the range, there was still a good deal left to explore the following day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WsF3ILnVYhU/TlWTMsIaBfI/AAAAAAAAKE0/J6GY59kqyrk/s800/IMG_3999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WsF3ILnVYhU/TlWTMsIaBfI/AAAAAAAAKE0/J6GY59kqyrk/s800/IMG_3999.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rainbow arcs over the mountains after an afternoon storm</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
In the next and final chapter I'll complete my near circumnavigation of the Unknown Mountains. Based on what I've discovered so far, I'll be making many trips back here to become even more familiar with <i>Mons Montis Incognita</i>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bTEhL4m21Jw/TlWTNcmNcEI/AAAAAAAAKE4/UDum5ArOz1o/s800/IMG_4002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bTEhL4m21Jw/TlWTNcmNcEI/AAAAAAAAKE4/UDum5ArOz1o/s800/IMG_4002.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-10699371482401753182013-06-17T14:14:00.000-07:002013-07-07T15:55:16.650-07:00A Range of Options - Exploring the Henry Mountains Part I<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pJuEZ1aZEK4/TlWUR_ZIAOI/AAAAAAAAKH4/gFM6NDuiDKM/s800/IMG_4129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" height="210" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pJuEZ1aZEK4/TlWUR_ZIAOI/AAAAAAAAKH4/gFM6NDuiDKM/s800/IMG_4129.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Henry Mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I've made the statement on multiple occasions of just how varied the topography is on the Colorado Plateau. This is particularly true of the southeastern part of Utah, where lofty mountains loom over deeply chiseled canyons. Both the <b>Abajo (Blue)</b> and <b>Henry Mountains</b> are leading examples in this category, and no matter the weather or season both ranges offer many different options for exploration. In this post I'll begin with some of the terrain encompassed in the wild and rugged Henrys.<br />
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<b>The Unknown Mountains</b><br />
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The open spaces of the American West exerted a mighty pull on emigrants seeking a fresh start, but by and large would-be settlers avoided the Henry Mountains and surrounding area due to the difficult nature of the terrain. Although it is certain Native peoples knew of the range, early explorers made no attempt to penetrate too deeply into the region. For whatever reason no one bothered to give these prominent features a lasting name, at least not one recorded by history. <br />
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When <b>John Wesley Powell</b> passed through the region in 1869 on his journey along the Colorado River, he christened them the "<b>Unknown Mountains</b>", since they appeared on no map of the time. It was not until his return in 1871 that he gave them the current appellation in honor of <b>Joseph Henry</b>, who was then director of the <b>Smithsonian</b>.<br />
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The Henrys only really came to prominence after Mr. Powell sent noted geologist <b>Karl Grove Gilbert</b> in 1875 to study the mountains. His findings after two seasons of fieldwork were published in a landmark paper entitled "<b>The Report on the Geology of the Henry Mountains</b>". This seminal work established a baseline for much subsequent research on Colorado Plateau landforms, and anyone who studies earth sciences today is familiar with his contribution.<br />
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A key finding of the report is that the Henrys, like the nearby Abajo and <b>La Sal</b> mountains are laccoliths. These features were formed when large intrusive bodies of magma began upwelling from below, seeking to emerge onto the surface of the land above. As the Colorado Plateau is almost uniformly stratigraphic in nature, the layers began to bulge upwards, rising in height corresponding to the amount of pressure from beneath.<br />
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These "frustrated volcanoes" elevated the overlying land to great heights. Over millions of years, the magma bodies eventually began to cool, while the layers above were stripped away by water, wind, and time. The exposed remains consist mostly of <b>porphyritic diorite</b>, with occasional outcrops of sedimentary rock in juxtaposition to the granitic body.<br />
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Like the "sky islands" of southeastern Arizona, what makes the ranges here unique is dramatic vertical relief, with summits ranging from 6000 to 8000 feet above the surrounding terrain. While lower elevation deserts and canyons bake in the summer sun, these lofty volcanic peaks offer green forests and cooler, wetter climates to those seeking relief.<br />
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Despite the extensive documentation of the mountains, few ventured into the region until leadership of the <b>LDS (Mormon)</b> church directed members in the 1880's to undertake missions to settle and cultivate the land, further expanding territory under their authority. The communities of <b>Caineville</b> and <b>Hanksville</b> were among the first established that still survive today, while other smaller populations fared less well and dwindled away.<br />
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The next influx of humans occurred some years later as a result of mineral exploration and extraction, primarily focused on areas surrounding the mountain. One notable exception was the establishment of a small town called <b>Eagle City</b> in support of gold mining in <b>Bromide Basin</b> near the slopes of <b>Mt. Ellen</b>, the tallest of the peaks in the range. <br />
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Despite a promising beginning, the period of activity lasted less than 10 years, and by 1900 all that was left were abandoned buildings and rusting equipment. Other precious metal seekers attempted to locate ore bodies elsewhere in the mountains, but all eventually succumbed to failure when no significant deposits were found.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old rock cabin</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The next decades saw little human intrusion into the Henrys, with the exception of a few hardy ranchers who used the slopes in summer for grazing cattle and sheep. This changed just before World War I, as newly discovered properties of radium fueled a brief mining boom, which ended when demand peaked not long after the war's end.<br />
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In the meantime small scale operations continued to extract vanadium (usually found in conjunction with uranium), used in processing steel. Mining activity surged once again during and after World War II, as high demand for uranium fueled by the nascent Atomic Age reached its peak.<br />
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All mineral extraction is subject to boom and bust cycles as demand fluctuates greatly. As prices dropped so did the production of uranium, closing most of the mines. Claims still exist today, and when demand increases it is likely activity will resume once more. Until then, visitors to the Henrys can expect to find little sign of a human presence, especially away from the few established roads that exist.<br />
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<b>Bull Creek Pass Trail to Bull Creek Pass</b><br />
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The entire area encompassed by the Henry Mountains is managed by the <b>Bureau of Land Management (BLM)</b>, a federal agency under administration of the <b>Interior Department</b>. Primary activities allowed under their mandate traditionally focused on mining, grazing, and resource extraction. Today the emphasis is geared more towards recreation, and all of the area is open to camping, off-roading (on existing trails), and exploration. As mentioned earlier, few actual roads penetrate the range, but those that do exist are in generally good condition. <br />
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Be advised however this is unforgiving country, with no services available except those found in the small communities outside the mountains, and that road surfaces here will change dramatically in wet weather. Flash flooding, impassable clay, and washouts are common occurrences, and back country travelers should contact a local BLM office for current road conditions and weather forecasts before setting out.<br />
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This post documents a section of one of the primary roads into the mountains - the <b>Bull Creek Pass Trail</b>. Beginning off <b>Utah SR 95</b>, this designated <b>Scenic Backway</b> displays a wide variety of terrain as it climbs from the lower elevations south of Hanksville to the highest point reached by road at 10,500 feet.<br />
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The geology of the region is most intriguing, and soon after leaving the highway some great examples appear. Named by locals "<b>Little Egypt</b>" these colorful formations resemble those found just to the north in another natural showcase called <b>Goblin Valley</b>. Although not as extensive as their better known relatives the rocks here are just as whimsical and appealing to the imagination, and stopping to explore is a good idea.<br />
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After a worthwhile diversion rambling amongst rock hoodoos, the road continues to meander through badland foothills, making slow progress towards the heights. Vegetation is minimal, as scant rainfall and high concentrations of minerals keep all but the hardiest of plants at bay.<br />
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Ever so gradually the road climbs, crossing numerous dry streambeds that cut across the flanks of stony terrain. Though water is noticeably absent, the presence of cottonwood trees along the banks are tell-tale signs that moisture exists - just out of sight underground.<br />
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Although the road is not overly rough it is rocky in spots, and it will hold most drivers to a leisurely pace. Traveling a bit more slowly allows for a thorough survey of the surroundings, including spotting evidence of the mining history seen here.<br />
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The treed slopes of the mountain seem tantalizingly close, but the road is in no hurry to get there. Winding through the foothills topography details are revealed slowly, turn by turn.<br />
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The trail begins to parallel the bed of <b>Crescent Creek</b> where we encounter more relics from the past. Just along the road is a small cabin, all that remains of the once populated <b>Eagle City</b>, a minor boom town built to service the mine in Bromide Basin.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hA8-MqpPMCk/TlWSE1yVC0I/AAAAAAAAKBw/1KThilLNnEw/s800/IMG_3730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hA8-MqpPMCk/TlWSE1yVC0I/AAAAAAAAKBw/1KThilLNnEw/s800/IMG_3730.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eagle City - Population 0</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kBigZ6VePEg/TlWSBtT8hzI/AAAAAAAAKBk/qUaGprkwGDg/s800/IMG_3727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kBigZ6VePEg/TlWSBtT8hzI/AAAAAAAAKBk/qUaGprkwGDg/s800/IMG_3727.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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These fragile remains of what were once the hopes and aspirations of those who came before are the only signs on this particular trip that anyone ever called these mountains home.<br />
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Leaving behind the ruins the trek continues onwards, finally leveling out on a broad grassy plain called <b>Eagle Bench</b>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0VG5fWh1Gs8/TlWFUoDa1lI/AAAAAAAAKIQ/OB8B3WTBGbw/s800/IMG_3733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0VG5fWh1Gs8/TlWFUoDa1lI/AAAAAAAAKIQ/OB8B3WTBGbw/s800/IMG_3733.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Here I find a puzzle. Although no one lives in the area, it apparently has enough importance to warrant an airstrip. There's a sign proclaiming it as such, and a wind sock, but I'm darned if I can see anything that resembles a runway. I suppose a plane could land here if it had to - <i>really</i> had to.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N0b7MeVZeJU/TlWSI0uw9QI/AAAAAAAAKB8/QKhAakCEb4o/s800/IMG_3737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N0b7MeVZeJU/TlWSI0uw9QI/AAAAAAAAKB8/QKhAakCEb4o/s800/IMG_3737.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eagle Bench Airstrip with Bull Mountain in the background</td></tr>
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With no one around to answer the burning question "why", I let the road carry me onwards towards my goal.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B0HCOn3tOmQ/TlWSKS56QNI/AAAAAAAAKCA/XpBhg9vu_yI/s800/IMG_3738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B0HCOn3tOmQ/TlWSKS56QNI/AAAAAAAAKCA/XpBhg9vu_yI/s800/IMG_3738.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The grade has been deceptively moderate to this point, ascending slowly but most assuredly upward. The views reflect this as the horizon begins to stretch out at the base of the range.<br />
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Anyone who has passed through this country on paved roads can attest to how chiseled and broken the terrain is, with canyon upon canyon cleaving a network in just about every direction. Imagining how early arrivals to the region would have viewed these obstacles explains why so few dared to venture into the labyrinth, limiting the human presence.<br />
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Those seeking relief from merciless sun and hot temperatures found below will find a soothing balm of cool air and refreshing green trees emerging above Eagle Bench.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down on Bull Mountain</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gwFlhTbgDQ8/TlWSSeVqMrI/AAAAAAAAKCU/yMZIFTe_eUM/s800/IMG_3750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gwFlhTbgDQ8/TlWSSeVqMrI/AAAAAAAAKCU/yMZIFTe_eUM/s800/IMG_3750.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Soon the road reaches a mean elevation and the route begins to make use of natural ravines between hills and peaks to navigate the topography. There are still ups and downs, but in general you can say you've "reached" the mountains.<br />
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A fork in the road appears, offering two different trajectories for the traveler. Continuing on leads to Bromide Basin, while the right hand turn takes you towards Bull Creek Pass, and beyond to Hanksville on another track from the south named <b>Sawmill Basin Road</b>. <br />
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I made that journey a while back using this other "major" route, and swore I would never do it again due to the excessively rocky conditions I encountered. Who knows, maybe someone put a grader on it in the intervening years, but I wouldn't count on it. Still, my path leads in that general direction for now.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n7BhVRd3VuA/TlWHINrnKvI/AAAAAAAAKIQ/gxLcRbjyZ_0/s800/IMG_3743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n7BhVRd3VuA/TlWHINrnKvI/AAAAAAAAKIQ/gxLcRbjyZ_0/s800/IMG_3743.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Beyond the junction the road becomes markedly steeper as it heads for higher Bull Creek Pass.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu2M0dIwpm0/TlWSVfP_64I/AAAAAAAAKCc/FfMABCViNj8/s800/IMG_3757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu2M0dIwpm0/TlWSVfP_64I/AAAAAAAAKCc/FfMABCViNj8/s800/IMG_3757.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8i-cb39eWvw/TlWSXM3EInI/AAAAAAAAKCg/S5yPWZXVgm8/s800/IMG_3759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8i-cb39eWvw/TlWSXM3EInI/AAAAAAAAKCg/S5yPWZXVgm8/s800/IMG_3759.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Before the pass another set of choices are presented with a smorgasbord of options for exploration. This point essentially amounts to the culmination of a loop that began at the previous junction where the road led to Bromide Basin.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2AllQhBFPTo/TlWGEJOk2EI/AAAAAAAAKIY/3PQHd_Nnilk/s800/IMG_3754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2AllQhBFPTo/TlWGEJOk2EI/AAAAAAAAKIY/3PQHd_Nnilk/s800/IMG_3754.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Moving on I arrive at the promised destination, heralded by a sign that tells me just where and how high I am.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RV2Poo4nHuE/TlWSg0cj7HI/AAAAAAAAKC8/MCg1vpMObyc/s800/IMG_3854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RV2Poo4nHuE/TlWSg0cj7HI/AAAAAAAAKC8/MCg1vpMObyc/s800/IMG_3854.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Driving this delightful Scenic Backway at a very deliberate pace puts me at the pass in the late afternoon, and not wanting to rush through anything I elect to continue just beyond the pass to find a campsite for the night. There is a lot more to see and do here, and I'll continue the story with my next post - hiking to the summit of the highest point of the Unknown Mountains. Unknown - at least for now.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ctr8wHBGOQY/TlWSb9ssTTI/AAAAAAAAKCw/P0bFBJfiuYs/s800/IMG_3806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ctr8wHBGOQY/TlWSb9ssTTI/AAAAAAAAKCw/P0bFBJfiuYs/s800/IMG_3806.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-32273347891286676702013-06-08T14:32:00.000-07:002013-06-08T16:53:05.467-07:00Grand Canyon - Bill Hall Trail to Thunder River<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCUyFr_IP-c/UFEPrlxQlhI/AAAAAAAAN5s/MFneCc5jUcc/s800/IMG_0101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCUyFr_IP-c/UFEPrlxQlhI/AAAAAAAAN5s/MFneCc5jUcc/s800/IMG_0101.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridgers Knoll from the rim</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Grand Canyon</b> is always on my mind, and why not? It occupies an enormous space not only in the physical world, but in my imagination as well. It is located just up the road from me, offering nearly unlimited opportunities to "drop in and drop out", or more prosaically just get away from it all.<br />
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Maybe that's why my thoughts return time and again to the sights and sounds from one of many intimate encounters, enticing me away from more mundane activities like work and endless chores around the house.<br />
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One of the places that merit revisiting (even if it's just in my head) is <b>Thunder River</b>. The name itself is a tantalizing invitation to a landscape uncommon to the overall Grand Canyon ecosystem, made all the more delightful by the exuberance manifested in its existence. But to see it you have to make the journey, and that's what this post is all about.<br />
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<b>The Bill Hall Trail</b><br />
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For this adventure we're going to have to go a bit farther afield than some of the easier to access trail heads found inside developed Park boundaries. In fact, we're going to need to travel almost 200 miles to the "other" side of the Canyon, aka the <b>North Rim</b>, then make a 30 mile trip on unpaved roads to a remote and unimproved dirt parking area known as <b>Monument Point</b>.<br />
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I could post turn-by turn directions including Forest Service road numbers, but if you are serious about the trip you'll just have to invest some time in finding out for yourself where you need to go. Sorry, in my opinion that's part of the fun.<br />
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Once you've arrived at the designated spot (you'll know you are there because the road ends and the Canyon begins) it's time to saddle up and hit the trail. The start of the path begins just to the west, through a sagging gate. After dropping down a short distance amidst shrubby vegetation, the trail begins to ascend moderately at first on a rubble strewn slope, heading for the promontory known as Monument Point. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bill Hall Trail head at Monument Point</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>A short distance ahead encounters a spur diverging towards the rim of the Canyon. It leads to a small stone marker and plaque commemorating the life of Park Ranger Bill Hall, whom the trail is named for.<br />
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After a moment's consideration and a good look at the majesty of the Canyon, rejoin the main path as it continues upwards. If you are like most folks, beginning the trip with a full pack on a reasonably steep and rocky trail will leave you breathless and sweating in no time. The good news as they say is once you reach the top it's all downhill from there.<br />
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Once you complete the heart pumping climb, views to the north are nearly endless thanks to a fire that cleared most of the pinyon and juniper for miles. The next .3 mile is a more or less level trek across open spaces, with a couple of minor ascents/descents through shallow gullies.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZbIC9WqXGk/UFEPmjadlDI/AAAAAAAAN5A/yw8IvgruKTU/s800/IMG_0086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZbIC9WqXGk/UFEPmjadlDI/AAAAAAAAN5A/yw8IvgruKTU/s800/IMG_0086.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
One final hill leads to a substantial pile of rocks which marks the drop in point. This is a good place to take in one last look at the scenery, as the next two miles demand total attention to the trail.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P_VdgxnI5rA/UbNMv50Rg6I/AAAAAAAAPFQ/I25L7zMFDH0/s800/IMG_0039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P_VdgxnI5rA/UbNMv50Rg6I/AAAAAAAAPFQ/I25L7zMFDH0/s800/IMG_0039.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The descent into the Canyon starts at this rock cairn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>One notable hallmark of the Bill Hall Trail is the rapid loss of elevation over a short distance - 2000 feet in 2 miles. Many hikers opt for the longer but more gradual <b>Indian Hollow Trail</b> found farther west. <br />
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I suppose it depends on personal preference, but there are many trails in the Canyon that feature very steep and loose descents, and once you get used to the idea that you must choose your footing very carefully it doesn't really make much sense to try and avoid it. I do however definitely recommend at least one trekking pole or walking stick to assist with sketchier sections.<br />
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Looking back up at the first part of the trail illustrates the challenge to hikers with heavy packs - coming and going.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoqp-r7GIHnMQ5TVV6CqEwZ9X02hbmWVOWR59v4DEFkUX2FOieNiOaBRD7MmMmiyZF0PqUDmgOvjRDFshBcw4ZHtnH7Ud9ZgS3MH0vKjnnUBKrQO-tTLlP6QDXwF49B8v7fxttMZ-8AzI/s800/IMG_0084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoqp-r7GIHnMQ5TVV6CqEwZ9X02hbmWVOWR59v4DEFkUX2FOieNiOaBRD7MmMmiyZF0PqUDmgOvjRDFshBcw4ZHtnH7Ud9ZgS3MH0vKjnnUBKrQO-tTLlP6QDXwF49B8v7fxttMZ-8AzI/s800/IMG_0084.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The most difficult section is the steady and unrelenting passage through the <b>Kaibab</b> and <b>Toroweap</b> layers, which seems longer than it is due to the care hikers must exercise on the way down. Eventually the trail rounds the corner to the northwest and begins a traverse into the <b>Coconino</b>, where the grade moderates just a bit. The views to the west invite a break from the grueling but necessary plunge.<br />
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There is one spot in the Coconino where some may find a short rope useful to lower packs, although many people could probably pick their way down the rocky outcrop with careful placement of hands and feet. After this relatively minor obstacle the trail returns to a more acute angle, dropping swiftly through a series of switchbacks to a drainage leading to the <b>Esplanade</b> below.<br />
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Esplanade is a word which means "<i>a level open stretch of paved or grassy ground"</i>. While neither paved nor grassy, it is analogous to the <b>Tonto Platform</b> found in the eastern and central Canyon. Like the Tonto it offers a somewhat contiguous layer that can be used as a conduit for east - west travel in an otherwise nearly vertical environment. It resides at a higher level than the Tonto, lying atop the <b>Redwall</b> formation at around 5400 feet instead of below it, and is characterized by broad basins of slickrock and beautiful stone hoodoos. <br />
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</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wid4tZl0Ts4/UFEPZImbnmI/AAAAAAAAPA4/6c4zf4VJ2zE/s800/IMG_0069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wid4tZl0Ts4/UFEPZImbnmI/AAAAAAAAPA4/6c4zf4VJ2zE/s800/IMG_0069.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aAFD5YqCslw/UFEPU8EzcbI/AAAAAAAAN3o/MXFDH7zORhU/s800/IMG_0063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2"height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aAFD5YqCslw/UFEPU8EzcbI/AAAAAAAAN3o/MXFDH7zORhU/s400/IMG_0063.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
A great feature of the Esplanade is the potential presence of water collected in potholes after rain or snow. In what is typically an exceptionally dry place this might be the only moisture available to animals and humans, but the ephemeral nature of the source means it cannot be relied on<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3jT0qTp8zCY/UIDDmygbo7I/AAAAAAAAPCI/L7DDCNAadQc/s800/IMG_1067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3jT0qTp8zCY/UIDDmygbo7I/AAAAAAAAPCI/L7DDCNAadQc/s800/IMG_1067.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pothole water on the Esplanade after rain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Where the path finally reaches the Esplanade proper, hikers will find suitable places to dry camp as well as the junction of Bill Hall with the Indian Hollow trail coming in from the west. Those planning on spending the night here would be wise to plan ahead and cache water, or take their chances and hope that recent rains may have replenished the potholes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qr6YPrEu2Uw/UFEPMerAa_I/AAAAAAAAPAc/pFdtchDENn0/s800/IMG_0057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="340" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qr6YPrEu2Uw/UFEPMerAa_I/AAAAAAAAPAc/pFdtchDENn0/s800/IMG_0057.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The junction of Bill Hall and Indian Hollow trails</td></tr>
</tbody></table>On this journey I chose to overnight on the Esplanade in both directions, breaking up the descent and climb into more enjoyable (less difficult) sections. Although water was available due to recent storms, I had already elected to deposit water ahead of time on an earlier reconnaissance trip.<br />
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After a restful afternoon and evening spent watching light and rain curtains dance amongst the pinnacles and promontories around me, the journey resumed the next morning. Following a path to the edge of the Esplanade, the trail switchbacks numerous times to descend the Redwall into <b>Surprise Valley</b>.<br />
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Surprise Valley is an anomaly in this part of the Canyon, hence the name. Geologists believe a very large section of the Redwall slumped away from the main body, forming a broad basin between the side canyons of <b>Tapeats Creek</b> and <b>Deer Creek</b>. <br />
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For many hikers the surprise comes from the fact that the valley has a southern exposure, is waterless, treeless, and can be unmercifully hot in the summer months. On this trip I was fortunate in that the weather was unsettled, and I actually got rained on a few times as I dropped down into the infamous cauldron.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain falls across the Canyon above Surprise Valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending along the Redwall</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yorO__7wT7c/UIDD3Bae_UI/AAAAAAAAOwc/UvZ2ZikWbkQ/s800/IMG_1091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yorO__7wT7c/UIDD3Bae_UI/AAAAAAAAOwc/UvZ2ZikWbkQ/s800/IMG_1091.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down into the valley</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kfIQqaFoOM/UIDD-ciMflI/AAAAAAAAPCk/-oopRCp1PCw/s800/IMG_1096.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kfIQqaFoOM/UIDD-ciMflI/AAAAAAAAPCk/-oopRCp1PCw/s800/IMG_1096.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8LFT8_x94W4/UIDEDG__uEI/AAAAAAAAPCo/sMxAQWvr3I8/s800/IMG_1100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8LFT8_x94W4/UIDEDG__uEI/AAAAAAAAPCo/sMxAQWvr3I8/s800/IMG_1100.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surprise Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Once at mean level, the trail meanders through the valley, picking its way through folds and pleats of talus skirts receding from the base of the Redwall. Soon a large cairn appears heralding another choice of routes. This is where hikers completing a loop of Tapeats and <b>Deer Creek </b>can opt for clockwise or counterclockwise circumnavigation, depending on personal choice and permit limitations.<br />
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From the Bill Hall/Indian Hollow merge to the junction in Surprise Valley is 4.6 miles, with the only moderately arduous part being the Redwall descent. This passage through the Canyon's most formidable barrier is no more difficult here than any other, and is certainly less of a challenge than the beginning of the Bill Hall trail.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dbUBMV5T5zM/UIDEE3X8-HI/AAAAAAAAPFc/Dl8vNzXtZV4/s800/IMG_1102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dbUBMV5T5zM/UIDEE3X8-HI/AAAAAAAAPFc/Dl8vNzXtZV4/s800/IMG_1102.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The intersection of Deer Creek and Tapeats Creek trails</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>The loop is probably the most heavily used trail in the west end of Grand Canyon, due entirely to the attractiveness of Thunder River on the east side and <b>Deer Creek Falls</b> on the west side. Both destinations are also popular with river runners, and you will likely encounter invading hordes of sandal wearing day trippers at either location. <br />
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Even so, the difficulty of the hike and far flung location offer enough of a challenge to keep all but the most hardy away, and the area still has a very remote character.<br />
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On this visit I am hiking the loop, making a descent to Thunder River and Tapeats Creek before continuing along the River to Deer Creek. I am only covering the Thunder River portion with this post because unfortunately just past this point I slipped and used my camera to break the fall, rendering me unable to photograph anything else. Stuff happens.<br />
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Heading east from the junction, the trail roughly parallels the base of the Redwall. Like the Tonto, the views from this mid-canyon perspective are amazing, offering high walls above and yawning depths below. Soon the path approaches the edge of Surprise Valley where it begins a series of (you guessed it) steep, loose switchbacks into the gorge below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The upper reaches of Tapeats Creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dropping into Tapeats Creek</td></tr>
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Two things become obvious when standing at the edge. The first is audible - the sound of lots of water pouring over rock ledges. The second is visual - the sight of lush green plants and trees clinging incongruously to the base of the Redwall.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First look at Thunder River</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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Thunder River is really not a river at all, but it is a prodigious amount of water blasting out of springs at the base of the cliff. This mighty torrent flows about 1/4 mile down canyon before merging with perennial Tapeats Creek, and the surrounding area is a oasis of green and living things in a sere, barren desert.<br />
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As the trail loses elevation the extent of the springs become more apparent. Soon you're at eye level with the falls and looking directly across the canyon at them. This is as close as you're likely to get, as dense vegetation surrounds the water- and moss slick cliffs and rocks.<br />
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The environment here is more like a tropical setting than anything else you are likely to see in the Canyon, and the spectacle is truly entrancing to those who understand the harsh and unforgiving nature of this place. The <b>Colorado River</b> at the bottom of Grand Canyon is the only comparable source in terms of volume, and although it winds for 277 miles through the gorge, nowhere does it present as magical a setting.<br />
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As I mentioned earlier in the post, my journey is barely underway, but I'll have to leave you here for now. I will return in the future to chronicle the rest of the loop hike, taking care to better protect my (new) camera this time. <br />
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In the meantime try to imagine the delicate spray of water, the mighty roar of a river unleashed from its underground prison, and the gentle fluttering of leaves on a warm breeze, all while surrounded by majestic walls of timeless beauty. If you can do that, you'll be fine until I get back.<br />
Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-26789195527140058122012-09-27T21:26:00.001-07:002021-10-31T20:31:19.048-07:00On Foot Part XIV - Making the Connection: Dry Lake Hills Loop No. 1<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YBe_yWqWOhg/YX9fATbplOI/AAAAAAAAafE/pvL-OTxi_D0-fIiRUu9oBN-YeOurjdjtwCLcBGAsYHQ/s946/EldenMap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="946" height="301" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YBe_yWqWOhg/YX9fATbplOI/AAAAAAAAafE/pvL-OTxi_D0-fIiRUu9oBN-YeOurjdjtwCLcBGAsYHQ/w303-h301/EldenMap.jpg" width="303" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elden Trail System Map<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Quality of life is certainly a very subjective concept, and it varies widely from person to person. In my case what makes the difference is the environment that surrounds me. I am fortunate indeed that the community I call home is located in a beautiful natural setting, and more importantly that many opportunities for recreation exist just beyond my front door.<br />
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In previous posts I have documented some of the many hiking trails found within a short distance of <b>Flagstaff</b>, and the area that offers the closest and most varied catalog is known as the <b>Dry Lake Hills</b>. This self contained region lies to the south of the larger <b>San Francisco Peaks</b>, creating somewhat of a buffer zone between the high alpine mountain and the bustling city below. Here you'll find long ridgelines and steep escarpments where trails criss-cross pine clad hills rising 1000 feet and more over the surrounding terrain.<br />
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Many trails in the Dry Lake Hills work well as stand alone hikes and are rewarding enough to be experienced as "out and back" adventures. For those seeking to cover additional ground or for more variety, the proliferation of routes makes it possible to create a wide array of loop hikes. In this post I'm detailing one of the many options available, and in the future I'll present a couple more.<br />
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<b> The Mt. Elden - Sunset - Heart - Christmas Tree Loop</b><br />
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This particular loop uses 4 different trails that together constitute a trip just over 8 miles in total. Hikers completing this circuit will encounter a surprisingly diverse range of environments, with a mixture of high desert plants, ponderosa pine, aspen, and spruce inhabiting microclimates that reflect not only elevation but orientation to the sun. <br />
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Through it all the geology is composed of dacitic lava, with a few remnant sections of the sedimentary rock that was lifted and shunted aside when the upwelling of volcanic material occurred. The steep relief of much of the topography is a testament to both the erosion resistant qualities of dacite and the relatively short time period it took to create the mountain. <br />
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Loop hikes start with a choice: which direction should you go? In my case I am rather fond of steep rocky trails, so I elect to begin with the hard part, taking a clockwise direction with an immediate ascent of the <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2009/09/on-foot-part-ii.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Mt. Elden Lookout Trail</span></a>.</span> This 2.6 mile calf buster climbs the southern aspect of Mt. Elden in a more or less zig-zag fashion, attaining over 2300 feet in elevation gain along the way.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Elden trailhead</td></tr>
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Although certainly challenging from a physical standpoint, once you reach the trail junction just below the lookout the hike becomes much less arduous, and with the exception of a 2 mile descent down a different rocky trail the remainder of the route is a pleasant and scenic ramble.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset - Mt. Elden trail junction</td></tr>
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Of course if you've still got some juice left in your legs upon reaching the junction, it's not too much of a detour to make the .2 miles to the lookout for some great views over the city and a closer look at the man-made forest of communications equipment installed on this lofty perch.<br />
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The Elden trail portion is located on the south facing side of the mountain, and as such receives full sunlight. This makes for a generally warmer and drier climate, and is reflected in the types of vegetation that populates the slope. When you make the transition to the north aspected <b>Sunset Trail</b>, the difference is dramatic and sudden.<br />
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In 1977 the human caused <b>Radio Fire</b> swept much of this area completely, denuding the slopes of trees. Despite the initial devastation the healing power of time has allowed for some recovery. At this elevation and latitude the first trees to reappear were the aspens, which along with other shrubby plants have begun the long process of rehabilitation.<br />
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The Sunset trail begins with a long, somewhat level traverse on the north side of Mt. Elden, eventually emerging onto a slender ridge connecting the main body of the mountain with the rest of the Dry Lake Hills. I really enjoy the Sunset trail for many different reasons, but particularly for the beautiful and vibrant color splashed across the mountain in fall. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back on the Sunset trail towards Mt. Elden</td></tr>
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Once on the airy, open ridge views to north include the tallest mountain in Arizona, the San Francisco Peaks.<br />
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The ridge served as a natural firebreak during the Radio blaze, and many of the trees at the top were spared. Here the path follows along the spine, dropping slightly in elevation as it nears the next waypoint.<br />
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After an easy mile of walking, the Sunset trail meets up with the junction of the <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2009/09/on-foot.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Upper Oldham</span></a></span> trail.<br />
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The intersection represents just one of the many loop possibilities found throughout the Dry Lake Hills trail system. For now we continue straight ahead, at first staying near the crest before dropping just below on the eastern face.<br />
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This scenic half mile segment offers the best view east over the outlying communities of <b>Doney Park</b> and <b>Timberline</b>, and beyond into the hazy brown and pink of the <b>Painted Desert</b> on the horizon. While enjoying the scenery, hikers should be aware that mountain bikes are permitted on the Sunset trail, and this downhill section has become fairly popular with riders.<br />
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As the Sunset trail makes a sudden turn to the west and downhill, the next section in this loop portfolio appears on the east side - the <b>Heart Trail<br />
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Dropping quickly below the level of Sunset, the descent on the Heart Trail appears loose and rocky - which it is for at least the first few hundred yards. Soon however the path levels out enough to allow for looking up instead of carefully negotiating the steep, debris filled pitch.<br />
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One result of the 1977 fire was the removal of trees and shrubs which masked some of the more unusual rock pillars and outcroppings on this face of the mountain. Although the extent of revegetation is not as extensive in other places, enough has grown in to soften the contours of the jagged and harsh foundation that lies underneath.<br />
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Heart trail follows a descending ridge for the most part, making long graceful switchbacks through open air. Although the grade is moderate overall, a few places on this upper section feature enough of an incline with lots of rocks to warrant special attention. Even so hikers have ample opportunity to take in expansive views as they make their way to the valley below.<br />
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The lower sections of Heart trail are characterized by frequent stands of Gambel or scrub oak, growing in family clusters.<br />
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The further down you go the more rocky the path becomes, requiring more attention to placement of the feet.<br />
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Much of the rubble is metamorphic in origin, but some of it springs from the few visible surface layers of sedimentary rock that once covered the entire region. Here is a rare outcropping of red sandstone seen along the way.<br />
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Nearing the base of the mountain the route becomes more brushy as it levels out, and isolated stands of ponderosa pine appear. Gradually the chunky red rock underfoot disappears to be replaced by sandy, white soil.<br />
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My only complaint about this otherwise excellent hike is that at the point where the Heart trail meets the <b>Sandy Seep</b> and <b>Christmas Tree</b> trails no signs exist to mark the junction. Anyone unfamiliar with the territory could easily take an errant turn and wind up heading the wrong direction. Just so you know - the correct answer is turn right onto the Christmas Tree trail.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The not-so-obvious and unmarked trail junction</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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At this point you should be heading generally west, contouring around the base of Mt. Elden. The path itself shows a fair amount of traffic and is easy to follow.<br />
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Soon the sounds of traffic along the always busy <b>Route 66/U.S. Highway 89</b> fill the air, and despite the screen of trees it's hard to maintain the illusion of being deep in the forest far away from the trappings of civilization. I suppose this what it feels like to walk in Central Park in downtown Manhattan.<br />
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After about 1.5 miles, the Christmas Tree trail we've been traveling meets the easternmost extension of <b>Fat Man's Loop</b>, a circular route which is incorporated into the Elden Lookout trail.<br />
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From here it's only a short walk to the junction with Fat Man's Loop and the Mt. Elden Lookout trail, followed by the previously traveled .2 mile back to the trailhead and parking area.<br />
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By now you've covered over 8 miles (more if you took any detours like a trip to the lookout) and seen how varied and scenic the country is just on the other side of the hill, so to speak. You've gained and lost nearly a vertical mile in elevation, and probably lost a pound or two in sweat.<br />
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What you get in return is up to you, but from my perspective I can tell you the gift of a day in the natural world is one without price - especially if you are fortunate enough to see the sunrise over Mt. Elden like I have. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CoM8Yo1mBRI/UGdD-vkb_ZI/AAAAAAAAOpI/Na7k6uQQntU/s800/IMG_0017.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CoM8Yo1mBRI/UGdD-vkb_ZI/AAAAAAAAOpI/Na7k6uQQntU/s800/IMG_0017.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise from Mt. Elden</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br /><br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-40181631498408064462012-09-16T13:21:00.000-07:002012-09-16T13:21:00.852-07:00Zion - High and Mighty<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14ztcGMSL0zNdEjZq8FI3RwjXH0fWbO0h-lv5uyoM_aYjrK0I_K2Kefy36t0TIgLoHD08ulMyVdSzjjvAczBaEYro9LpAuzyHmFdGEpJKlLAYi3DLBzAix_GfmQeIIAFJKn4C49Km2IM/s800/IMG_0137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14ztcGMSL0zNdEjZq8FI3RwjXH0fWbO0h-lv5uyoM_aYjrK0I_K2Kefy36t0TIgLoHD08ulMyVdSzjjvAczBaEYro9LpAuzyHmFdGEpJKlLAYi3DLBzAix_GfmQeIIAFJKn4C49Km2IM/s800/IMG_0137.jpg" width="280" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div>As any reader of this blog already knows, I am in awe of the majesty and beauty found throughout the Four Corners region. With such an abundance of grandeur it is easy to run short of superlatives, especially when trying to describe a place like <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Zion National Park</span></a>, which transcends the merely sublime with landscapes dwarfing all but the grandest spectacles found in the region.<br />
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Showcasing soaring canyons of the <b>Virgin River</b> and the surrounding watershed, Zion features sheer sandstone cliffs and monoliths among the tallest in the world. With elevations ranging from 3600 feet to well over 8000 feet, the Park features an astounding range of habitats and environments, including lush riparian corridors along perennial rivers and creeks. There are incredibly deep and narrow canyons, soaring towers, and broad high altitude plateaus that beckon the backcountry explorer both on established trails and unmarked cross-country routes.<br />
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<b>In General</b><br />
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The Park is large, encompassing 229 square miles. Much of that is designated as wilderness, and the areas that most visitors see represent a fraction of the total. Like the South Rim of <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/index.htm">Grand Canyon</a></span> and <a href="http://www.nps.gov/brca/index.htm" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Bryce National Parks</span></a>, Zion is rightfully popular with tourists. Considered one of the "big three" must see destinations in the southwest, the Park Service has instituted a number of practices to manage crowds requiring advance planning and knowledge in order to get the most out of your visit.<br />
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This post serves as an introduction to the Park and provides basic information about visitation. In subsequent entries I'll detail some of the more interesting front country hiking trails found in the heavily visited Virgin River Canyon section.<br />
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<b>History</b><br />
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Humans have called the area around Zion home for thousands of years, beginning with Paleo peoples in small nomadic groups wandering the land in search of game and plants. Little evidence remains of their earliest time here, and it's not until about 2000 years ago that organized groups developed a lifestyle that included farming and semi-permanent settlements. This period is referred to as the <b>Archaic</b>, with significant artifacts and ruins left behind to document their presence in the canyons and mesas.<br />
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Later evolution led to a culture similar to that of the Puebloan peoples found throughout the Four Corners regions, more specifically referred to here as the <b>Basketmakers</b> and <b>Parowan Fremont</b> groups. Like their counterparts to the east, it appears that most of the population abandoned the area around 1300 A.D., possibly due to climactic changes or conflict with others. The next occupants to seek life in the region were primarily from the <b>Ute</b> and <b>Paiute</b> groups of southern Utah, who made seasonal forays into the valleys for game and edible plants.<br />
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The late 1700's saw the entrance of the first anglos to the area, with Spanish explorers seeking an overland route from <b>Santa Fe</b> to <b>Monterrey</b>. In the early 1800's mountain men began trapping beaver along the creeks and rivers, and their first hand knowledge of the country enabled the initial wave of emigrant pioneers trekking westward in search of new opportunities. Of this category the group who had the greatest and most lasting human impact are the <b>Mormon</b> settlers sent south by <b>Brigham Young</b> to colonize and settle the land.<br />
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Upon arrival to the valleys of the Virgin River and its tributaries they found lush canyon bottoms with year-round water, and in the lower elevation temperate climates favorable to a longer growing season. Unfortunately they also discovered generally poor soils and canyons that were subject to frequent flash flooding. Difficult conditions eventually led most families to settle outside the current boundaries of the Park in communities like Springdale, with only a few hardy souls persisting in the main canyon.<br />
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The overall beauty of the place was not lost on those who were sent to make their homes here, and the religious fervor that inspired members of the LDS church also led to the naming of many geographical features, including the indelible and appropriate label of Zion, mentioned in the Bible as a place of peace.<br />
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By the early 1900's, recognition of spectacular and relatively pristine natural areas in the west was promoted heavily by artists, geographers, and early travelers who had the wherewithal to visit these remote and rugged areas. In particular artist <b>Frederick Dellenbaugh</b> created a series of portraits that helped establish the beauty of the region with the general public in the east, and in 1909 President <b>William Howard Taft</b> created <b>Mukuntuweap National Monument</b>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7zkTXxG1qhI/UFYXnIniM7I/AAAAAAAAOUg/tvsBbaHe71M/s800/1903_painting_of_Zion_Canyon_by_Dellenbaugh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7zkTXxG1qhI/UFYXnIniM7I/AAAAAAAAOUg/tvsBbaHe71M/s800/1903_painting_of_Zion_Canyon_by_Dellenbaugh.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1903 painting of Zion Canyon by Frederick Dellenbaugh</td></tr>
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The name was changed to the more palatable Zion National Park in 1919 when Congress added additional acreage. In the first years the Park was rarely visited as the remote location and lack of good roads prevented all but the most determined from getting there. It wasn't until 1930 when work was completed on the Zion - Mt. Carmel road and tunnel that automobiles could reliably reach the area. In 1937 a separate unit of the Park was established that included the Kolob Canyons, which subsequently was incorporated into the larger Park in 1956.<br />
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Zion is one of the more popular National Parks in the country today, with annual visitation in excess of 3 millions people. In 2009 President Barack Obama signed legislation that designated and preserved much of the Park as wilderness, preventing further development and preserving the unique character of the landscape.<br />
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<b>Getting There</b><br />
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Zion is located in the southwestern corner of Utah, and has two primary units. The northwestern extension of the Park is known as the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/kolob-canyons.htm" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kolob Canyons</span></a> and is reached from <b>Interstate 15</b> near <b>Cedar City</b>. This more remote area is an extension of the Park added in 1937, and is less heavily trafficked than the main canyon. The 10 mile roundtrip along the scenic drive allows views and access into the rugged wilderness that comprises this part of the Park. Be aware that winter driving conditions may force the temporary closure of the road.<br />
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The more well known Zion Canyon area is accessible from either east or west on <b>Utah Highway 9</b>. If traveling from the east the turnoff is found at <b>Mt. Carmel Junction</b> located on <b>U.S. Highway 89</b> north of <b>Kanab</b>. Please note that oversize vehicles using this route will need an escort through the <b>Zion - Mt. Carmel Tunnel</b>. The tunnel is an amazing feat of engineering carved through nearly 1 mile of Navajo sandstone, and is an attraction all its own. Currently there is a $15.00 fee that allows for 2 trips through the tunnel which must be paid at the time of entrance to the Park. For more information and vehicle size restrictions, <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/the-zion-mount-carmel-tunnel.htm" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">click here</span></a>.<br />
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To avoid delays and fees associated with passing through the tunnel visitors may want to use the westside entry point. This route also utilizes Highway 9 and can be found from one of two exits on Interstate 15 - Use <b>Exit 27</b> if heading south, and <b>Exit 16</b> if traveling northbound. Both converge in the town of <b>La Verkin</b> and provides a direct approach to the south entrance gate through <b>Springdale</b>.<br />
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<b>Springdale</b><br />
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Springdale is the gateway community found immediately south of the main Park entrance, and offers the widest array of services found adjacent to Zion. Hotels, restaurants, galleries, and mercantiles provide visitors with many options for lodging, dining, and shopping. Be advised that prices here are significantly higher due to the monopolistic position of the town. Wise travelers will fill gas tanks and grocery carts in <b>Hurricane</b>, Cedar City, or Kanab to minimize the expense.<br />
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Springdale also serves as auxiliary parking when Zion lots are full, which commonly occurs by 10:00 a.m. nearly every day in season. A free shuttle bus offers transportation into the Park and connections to the designated Zion shuttle system, making for a relatively hassle free entrance to the main canyon area (Park entrance fees still apply).<br />
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<b>Lodging/Camping</b><br />
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As mentioned in the previous passage, Springdale has a variety of accommodations for those who desire to spend the night under a roof with all the amenities. Inside the Park the only lodging option is the <a href="http://www.zionlodge.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Zion Lodge</span></a>, open year-round and operated by a concessionaire. Zion Lodge is located in the main canyon and offers the convenience of being closest to the attractions found here, as well as the "wow' factor of having million dollar views just outside your room.<br />
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For those who travel more simply or have the self contained options offered by an RV, <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/upload/Campground-Schedule-2011.pdf" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">two campgrounds</span></a> are located just beyond the south Park entrance. These are <b>Watchmen</b> and <b>South</b> campgrounds, and although they are located adjacent to each other there are a few important differences. <br />
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For starters, space at Watchmen is available on a <a href="http://www.recreation.gov/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">reservation only</span></a> basis from mid-March to mid-November, with bookings available up to 6 months in advance. If you are planning a trip during peak season (spring through fall) I strongly advise planning ahead and securing a spot. In addition Watchmen bans generators but offers electrical hookups (no water or sewer connections) for those who want to run A/C and other appliances.<br />
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South campground is more modest in that it allows generators during specified hours, but has no hookups and operates as a first-come, first-served venue. It fills completely by mid-day during peak season, so don't count on a space if you will arrive late in the day. Additionally South campground closes in late November, at which time Watchmen becomes open on a space available basis. Both campgrounds are in close proximity to the Virgin River, although only a few select sites offer riverside camping.<br />
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<b>Weather</b><br />
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All developed facilities for visitors at Zion exist at lower elevations than those found at Grand Canyon and Bryce, and as a result summers can be shockingly hot for the unprepared. The canyon bottom routinely exceeds the 100 degree mark in summer, and even higher elevations can reach temperatures of 90 or more. This makes hiking in many locations hazardous as heat exhaustion and dehydration takes a toll on unwary hikers.<br />
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In addition the summer thunderstorm season which occurs generally from mid-July through early September can produce localized flooding in many canyons, making popular hiking destinations like the <b>Narrows</b> and the <b>Subway</b> literal death traps. The uncertainty of flash flooding combined with high temperatures can make visiting some areas of the Park somewhat challenging during the warmer months.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b6OBcj9jB7I/UFTLwDLVIvI/AAAAAAAAOS0/w-dYvbQryJ8/s800/IMG_0359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b6OBcj9jB7I/UFTLwDLVIvI/AAAAAAAAOS0/w-dYvbQryJ8/s800/IMG_0359.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
Spring and fall are generally better times to experience Zion, although snowmelt after wet winters can add an extra dimension of unnecessary danger to canyon hiking in March and April. Winter brings the fewest number of people to the Park, but snow at the highest elevations can close many trails, and freezing cold water temperatures limit exploration of routes like the Narrows. In addition, snow can fall at even the lowest points in Zion, although it usually won't last long or accumulate to any depth where the sun can reach.<br />
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Of all seasons, the consensus seems to be that the period from October to early December offers the best chance at milder weather with generally sunny days. Even so given the range of topographic and environmental diversity, it's best to arrive prepared for just about anything.<br />
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<b>The Park Shuttle</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sPJQNWvV0Gc/UFT96EPDGiI/AAAAAAAAOUE/gwSci7VTwno/s800/20061019182748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sPJQNWvV0Gc/UFT96EPDGiI/AAAAAAAAOUE/gwSci7VTwno/s800/20061019182748.jpg" width="300" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of Zion National Park</td></tr>
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To decrease traffic congestion and improve visitor experience the Park Service has closed the Main Canyon Road to private vehicles from April through October. To facilitate the movement of people to trailheads and points of interest in the canyon a free shuttle system operates daily. Round trip travel time with no exits from the shuttle require about 80 minutes. <br />
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During the ride an informative narrative is broadcast over the shuttle speakers, providing guests with a mixture of history, services, and details about each stop along the way. This also allows people to focus on the scenery around them and practically eliminates distracted driving.<br />
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Shuttle hours vary with the season - check the current Park <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/upload/ZionFallMG2012.pdf" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">newspaper</span></a> for details.<br />
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<b>Hiking</b><br />
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Both Zion Canyon and Kolob Canyons provide a range of front country trails suitable for first-time visitors. These trails range in general from relatively easy strolls with minimal elevation gain to leg and lung busting hikes from the valley to the highest plateaus. In subsequent posts I will detail some of these options for your consideration.<br />
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There are two hikes of note that should be addressed in regards to their respective challenges. The first is probably the most popular and well known route in Zion - <b>the Narrows</b>.<br />
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The Narrows is a 16 mile stretch of Virgin River that cuts through some incredibly deep and spectacular canyon walls. As the name implies, there are a few sections where the walls are close together and nearly 2000 feet high, and almost the entire route is the river. This means walking in the stream on slick algae covered rocks for long periods of time, in a channel that for at least a few miles offers no chance at escape in the event of a flash flood. The water can be swift and cold, and in some cases may require swimming. This is definitely not a hike for the first timer or the unprepared.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ptlwO5ju1X8/UFTLrZfwstI/AAAAAAAAOSM/LoolIoMgjRw/s800/IMG_0345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ptlwO5ju1X8/UFTLrZfwstI/AAAAAAAAOSM/LoolIoMgjRw/s800/IMG_0345.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The entrance to the Narrows at the Temple of Sinawava</td></tr>
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There are many rules and regulations that must be observed when considering a hike through the Narrows, and the Park Service is very strict about when this hike can be attempted. Permits are required, even for day trips, and are not issued until the day before the hike starts. To learn more about the Narrows and other backcountry permit requirements, download the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/upload/ZionWG2012.pdf" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Wilderness Guide</span></a><br />
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The other front country hike that is popular with visitors is the 5.5 mile round trip climb to <b>Angel's Landing</b>. This route ascends steeply from the valley floor over 1400 feet in elevation to a narrow ridge of sandstone that offers incredible views up and down canyon. The last half mile is particularly challenging to those with a fear of heights, as there is a great deal of exposure and a very real risk of falling over a thousand feet to certain death.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vXbTDOqujLE/UFTLpkFkTpI/AAAAAAAAOR8/9AI0i-QE46k/s800/IMG_0341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vXbTDOqujLE/UFTLpkFkTpI/AAAAAAAAOR8/9AI0i-QE46k/s800/IMG_0341.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 1400 foot high sandstone monolith known as Angel's Landing</td></tr>
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Although the upper section has chains in place to assist in climbing, anyone with vertigo or an established paranoia about high places should avoid this hike. It should also not be attempted when weather conditions are unfavorable, i.e., during summer thunderstorms, high winds, or in winter when ice can create significant slip and fall hazards.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jgk3cRE3-Oo/UFTKBm4v5kI/AAAAAAAAOFU/UZT1QIJ99M0/s800/IMG_0154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jgk3cRE3-Oo/UFTKBm4v5kI/AAAAAAAAOFU/UZT1QIJ99M0/s800/IMG_0154.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
During peak season Zion is a very busy place, and well known and established front country trails offer few opportunities for solitude and quiet. Even so, if you get out early enough, or go a little farther than the masses (when possible to do so) peace and tranquility can be found. Besides, the majestic setting and grand scale of the place makes it easy to forget that you are sharing all that beauty with many others. At least that's how I see it.Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-62500783570182296312012-07-15T21:20:00.000-07:002012-07-15T21:25:13.143-07:00On Foot Part XIII - Humphreys Peak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2SKwJMGrfQg/SjU4ci7YomI/AAAAAAAAAbg/SDidBMy9PfM/s800/PeaksSunset1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="210" width="280" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2SKwJMGrfQg/SjU4ci7YomI/AAAAAAAAAbg/SDidBMy9PfM/s800/PeaksSunset1.JPG" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div><b>Arizona at its Peak</b>. That's one way to view the hike to the tallest mountain in the state at 12,633 feet above sea level. Although modest by Colorado or California standards, the lofty pinnacle crowning the greater <b>San Francisco Peaks</b> is high enough to make nearly all visitors appreciate the challenge and effort required to reach it.<br />
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Located in northern Arizona, the <b>Peaks</b> (as they are known to locals) loom over the city of <b>Flagstaff</b> and offer the only true alpine environment in the state. The mountain is a classic example of an ancient <b>stratovolcano</b> that once reached a height of 15,000 feet or more, and is the largest feature of a still active hotspot beneath the Earth's crust known as the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Francisco_volcanic_field" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">San Francisco Volcanic Field</span></a>. <br />
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Geologists speculate that an eruption rivaling that of <b>Mt. St. Helens</b> in the Pacific Northwest removed the entire top of the mountain, with much of the mass ejecting to the east and forming a caldera known today as the <b>Inner Basin</b>. Of course all of this occurred several hundred thousand years ago, and the likelihood of further activity on the mountain itself is nearly non-existent.<br />
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<b>Humphreys Peak Trail #51</b><br />
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The trailhead is found at the end of <b>Snowbowl Road</b>, a paved 7 mile route located 7 miles northwest of Flagstaff on <b>U.S. Highway 180</b>. Incidentally Snowbowl Road also leads to the <a href="http://www.arizonasnowbowl.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Arizona Snowbowl</span></a>, one of the state's few ski and snowboard venues.<br />
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The combination of its status as Arizona's highest mountain, ease of access, and non-technical nature make this hike very popular, particularly on summer weekends when large numbers of people head north to avoid the oppressive heat of Phoenix.<br />
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The trail is 4.5 miles each way, and climbs 3300 feet to reach the summit. Although not especially difficult in grade or terrain at first, the elevation can be a factor for many people, as it starts at around 9300 feet. <br />
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The first 3.5 miles is relatively pleasant although not especially scenic, with an extended hike through a spruce-fir forest on a moderate incline. The real challenge and best scenery begins where the trail tops out above treeline on a very rocky slope. It is here that most folks feel the reduced oxygen content in conjunction with some fairly steep grades, and the pace will likely slow somewhat for many.<br />
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Another consideration is the weather. Like most high altitude environments, the mountain itself can have a profound effect on climate in the immediate vicinity. This includes the possibility of snowfall at any time of year on the uppermost slopes, high winds caused by pressure differentials and the mechanics of the mountain, and probably the most likely threat summer hikers will face - lightning.<br />
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Summer thunderstorms are common from about mid-July through early September, and days that begin with clear blue skies can rapidly deteriorate into a potentially life threatening adventure. Large diameter hail, freezing rain, and frequent lightning strikes above tree line often occur simultaneously, making exposed and unprepared hikers not only miserable, but at risk for hypothermia and electrocution. <br />
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Take my advice - the most successful hikers always check the forecast beforehand, get an early start, and are willing to abandon their quest for the top when conditions dictate a retreat.<br />
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But let's begin at the beginning, shall we? Once the trail leaves the parking area and passes under a ski lift located on <b>Hart Prairie</b>, it plunges into a dense and somewhat overgrown sub-alpine forest. A trail register and sign appears marking the boundary of the <b>Kachina Peaks Wilderness</b>, which covers much of the mountain.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j9McMUJrxeg/T82M1ppdwJI/AAAAAAAANn4/id8d5FPhsKw/s800/IMG_7838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j9McMUJrxeg/T82M1ppdwJI/AAAAAAAANn4/id8d5FPhsKw/s800/IMG_7838.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
From here the trail initiates a series of long switchbacks along a western facing ridge. One notable characteristic of the path through this section is an abundance of tree roots interlaced like gnarled fingers or extended veins. Lifting ones feet is paramount through here unless you're fond of stumbling.<br />
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At the northern most extension of the switchbacks you'll encounter a massive rockslide extending up and down the flanks of the mountain. There is a side hike here that I'll detail at some point leading straight up the slide to the wreckage of a B24 bomber that crashed during a training mission in 1944, killing the entire crew.<br />
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Not unexpectedly the trailbed also becomes increasingly rocky in these areas, again requiring the hiker to pick up their feet and watch their step.<br />
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Views are hard to come by in this passage, as dense forest masks the horizon. Here is one of the exceedingly scarce peeks you'll get of the landscape to the west.<br />
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Although not spectacular or grand in terms of views, walking through the forest does have appeal in the form of usually abundant summer wildflowers and aesthetically pleasing surroundings.<br />
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The final switchback on the western ridge turns south at first, then east as it ascends along a traverse above a shallow bowl framing the north boundary of the ski area. The trees thin here for better views across the slopes, and it is easy to see how much elevation has been gained - and how much there is yet to climb.<br />
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A sign appears just before the trail begins a steep climb towards the saddle between <b>Agassiz</b> and Humphreys Peak. The first part warns that hiking off trail is not permitted. This is due to the existence of an endangered plant, the <i><b>Senecio Franciscanus</b></i> also known as <b>flowering yellow groundsel</b>. This inconspicuous forb grows nowhere else in the world except above treeline on the Peaks. <br />
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The second mentions that the altitude is 11,500 feet above sea level, and that camping beyond this point is not allowed, for the same reasons as above. Only 1100 feet to go.<br />
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The next section is where most folks realize that the hike will be harder than they thought. That's because a 500 foot climbs begins in earnest beyond this point, and the trail wastes no time as it ramps up the grade. Add the lower level of available oxygen to the equation, and you'll see why most hikers take frequent breaks to catch their breath along the way.<br />
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Most of the walk so far has been in a forest dominated by spruce and fir, with some pockets of aspen down lower. At the upper reaches trees more acclimated to the harsh environmental conditions found at higher altitudes appear - Limber Pine and Bristlecone Pine are the prevalent species.<br />
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Near the saddle trees become sparse, and those that do survive appear twisted, gnarled, and lower to the ground than their brethren down low. The Germans, who have an abundance of high mountain peaks call these stunted groves <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krummholz" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">krummholz</span></a> (literally "knee forest"), and they typify the extreme environment found in alpine environments.<br />
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Once the saddle is gained, the views open up in nearly all directions to encompass much of northern Arizona. The elevation here is 12,000 feet, and beyond this point very little grows, let alone thrives. One example is the Senecio below, as well as another hardy shrub unknown to me.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Senecio franciscanus - Photo courtesy of U.S. Forest Service (USDA)</td></tr>
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Taking time to admire the views is a good idea, since the last mile will seem both endless and rocky to most people. Looking east reveals the crater at the center of the mountain, aka the Inner Basin. Filled with extensive groves of mature white barked aspen trees, the area is a magnet for photographers both summer and fall.<br />
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To the north is seen the final destination - Humphreys Peak, still one mile on and 600 feet higher.<br />
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Out west are other volcanic heights like <b>Sitgreaves</b> and <b>Bill Williams Mountains</b>, as well as hundreds of other smaller cinder and splatter cone remnants.<br />
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Looking southeast, a curious rock formation atypical of volcanic geology is seen high on a sheer slope above the Inner Basin. What appears at this angle as an arch is likely a juxtaposition of rocks forming a window, although unless I hike up there I'll never know for sure.<br />
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The saddle marks a trail junction as well as a good resting spot. At this point the <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2012/05/on-foot-part-xii-weatherford-trail.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Weatherford Trail</span></a> arrives from the backside of Agassiz Peak to continue on to Humphreys. <br />
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This former "auto tour" road was developed in the early 1900's by a would be entrepreneur who envisaged happy-go-lucky motorists driving their tin lizzies and jalopies to the top of Arizona.<br />
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Alas the costs of maintenance and development proved too much, and with the creation of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness the route reverted to the Forest Service to become a hiking and horseback trail.<br />
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Once you've managed to get enough air and taken in the views, it's time to continue onwards and upwards.<br />
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Above treeline the horizon is endless, and so are the rocks. What ensues for the next mile are a series of false summits as the trail clings to a narrow ridge leading to Humphreys. In places the path is relatively level and obstacle free, while in others loose rock and cinders conspire to foil uphill progress on steep pitches.<br />
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Although the exposure is minimal, I doubt anyone would want to lose their balance and tumble down the rocky slopes, especially not in one of these very long avalanche chutes.<br />
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After what seems like interminable walking, the real pinnacle of the mountain appears. One last rocky scramble reveals the prize.<br />
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Because high wind is a frequent companion to the highest point, over the years enterprising individuals have labored to build a rudimentary windbreak at the apex. Fortunately there is no shortage of material on hand to work with.<br />
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On my last visit I was surprised to see that someone with even more initiative has hauled a wooden bench all the way to the summit. I certainly hope whoever did it took it up in pieces and assembled it in place, otherwise they're made of stronger stuff than I'll ever be.<br />
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Of course besides the bragging rights of saying you've been as high as you can be in Arizona, the views are essentially unlimited on a clear day. Looking west is <b>Kendrick Mountain</b>, the next tallest and also volcanic feature in the region at 10,400 feet.<br />
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Due south is the second highest peak in the range, Agassiz at 12,356 feet. This image shows the Weatherford Trail snaking up the east flank and headed for the saddle.<br />
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Due north and below Humphreys is the slash of the <b>Waterline Trail</b> contouring around the shoulders where it ultimately connects the <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2009/10/on-foot-part-v.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Abineau Trail and Bear Jaw Trails</span></a> in a loop.<br />
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The northeastern horizon shades to brown and pinks as the land slopes away towards the vast <b>Navajo</b> and <b>Hopi</b> reservations amid the <b>Painted Desert</b>. And it's true, you can see the <b>Grand Canyon</b> from here, although what you really get is the elevated upper part of the <b>North Rim</b> peeking over the earth-sky line some 70 miles distant.<br />
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After enjoying your conquest of Humphreys, the long downhill trip allows plenty of time to savor the achievement. Although it's not a Rocky Mountain High, it is rocky, and it is high, and it all belongs to Arizona. As far as I'm concerned that's good enough. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q3J48WDEUPc/T82MpR77mDI/AAAAAAAANmw/F-ebmiS-W4Q/s800/IMG_7818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q3J48WDEUPc/T82MpR77mDI/AAAAAAAANmw/F-ebmiS-W4Q/s800/IMG_7818.JPG" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-88191691696448950822012-06-29T15:59:00.000-07:002012-06-29T16:35:12.272-07:00Grand Canyon - The Escalante Route<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FlfypHrk7i8/T5Sir8_d-HI/AAAAAAAAM-M/HQZww_gtigs/s800/IMG_0124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FlfypHrk7i8/T5Sir8_d-HI/AAAAAAAAM-M/HQZww_gtigs/s800/IMG_0124.JPG" width="280" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div>Fully immersing oneself in the <b>Grand Canyon</b> backcountry is an experience that cannot be fully explained in words or pictures, simply because it is not possible to accurately convey just how rugged the terrain or how complete the isolation is to someone who has never been there. Even so, I'll make the attempt in describing a recent journey to one of the lesser visited areas along the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Escalante_Route.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Escalante Route</a>.<br />
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Because of its unique geography, trails in Grand Canyon usually take one of two forms; a rim to river path or a meandering generally east - west traverse of terrain located at some level above the river.<br />
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Good examples of the former include <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Bright_Angel_Trail.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Bright Angel</a> or <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/South_Kaibab_Trail.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">South Kaibab</a> trails, while the latter is best represented by the through-canyon <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Tonto-Grandview_to_South_Kaibab.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Tonto East</a> and <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Tonto-Bright_Angel_to_Hermit.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Tonto West</a> trails. The Escalante route could reasonably be considered an eastern extension of the Tonto, however geology, terrain, and perspective are markedly different from that found further west.<br />
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One of the main points that distinguishes the Escalante from the Tonto is whereas the Tonto stays high on a bench around 1500 feet above the canyon bottom throughout its length, the Escalante begins and ends at the same elevation as the river, and indeed the best camping is found along the water on sometimes isolated beaches.<br />
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Another fairly important difference is that the only source of water on the Escalante is the river, and in times of upstream flooding the Colorado can become exceptionally turbid, full of muddy brown silt that wreaks havoc on water filters. Hikers planning an excursion on this lonely but incredibly beautiful trail need to plan ahead for such contingencies to be successful.<br />
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<b>The Escalante Route</b><br />
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In the Canyon the distinction between a route and a trail implies one is less established than the other, and this used to be the case with the Escalante. But over the last few decades increasing usage has led to a well defined trail tread becoming the norm throughout most of the 12 miles between <b>Tanner Beach</b> and the mouth of <b>Red Canyon</b> at <b>Hance Rapids</b>.<br />
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That's not to say that careless hikers can't become lost or disoriented when making the trek, and in a few areas close attention to the surroundings are necessary to stay on the correct path. There are also a few notable challenges found along the way that may or may not intimidate the novice Canyon hiker, but more on those later.<br />
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Although the Escalante Route can be done in either direction, most people choose an east to west trajectory due to the topography of the Canyon. As the river cuts downward through the <b>Kaibab Plateau</b> the land rises steadily to the west, and this provides for a visually appealing landscape as walls begin to close in and rise ever higher above you. Accordingly this hike starts on the east end, beginning with a descent to the river down the Tanner Trail, described in greater detail <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2012/06/grand-canyon-tanner-trail.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.<br />
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From <b>Tanner Beach</b> the trail parallels the shoreline of the river for a considerable distance, at first traversing a long sandy stretch before turning south and inland for a bit. <br />
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The first few miles of the Escalante wind in and out of several small rocky drainages, never straying far from the river.<br />
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As noted in a previous post on the <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2012/06/grand-canyon-tanner-trail.html" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Tanner Trail</a>, the eastern end of Grand Canyon is more open than what is seen downriver. The underlying <b>Supergroup</b> formation is composed of softer, more easily eroded rocks, and the result is an expansive and encompassing panorama of the area.<br />
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At 3 miles from Tanner Beach the trail crosses the dry channel of <b>Cardenas Creek</b>. The mouth of this streambed offers decent campsites as well as a last chance to fill up on water before the next opportunity several miles ahead at <b>Escalante Creek</b>. If staying here for the night be aware that Cardenas Beach is frequently used by larger river trips for camping, so be prepared to have your space invaded.<br />
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On the other side of Cardenas the trail begins a long and gradual climb up to an overlook of the river and <b>Unkar Rapids</b> below.<br />
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While looking down several hundred feet at the churning whitewater of Unkar Rapid, I spotted what would be the first of only two groups of humans I saw during the three day trip. Their tiny yellow rafts bobbed upon tongues of water, emerging unharmed but undoubtedly wet and probably exhilarated after the passage.<br />
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Continuing an upward trend, the trail now heads south and away from the river as it makes for the head of an unnamed drainage separating Cardenas and Escalante Creeks. <br />
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Once past this obstacle the direction returns to a more westerly heading, still climbing gradually to contour around a ridge bordering the Escalante Creek drainage. This portion of the trail is frequently mentioned in narratives as being "sketchy" or "nail biting", since a good portion of it consists of side hill walking along a narrow path mere inches wide, with a steep and likely fatal drop below.<br />
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Looking down:<br />
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Despite a fearsome reputation, hiking this section is no more challenging to an experienced Grand Canyon hiker than many <b>Redwall</b> descents, although to be honest one must really pay attention to where they put their feet. Besides, the lofty perch also provides some excellent views across the Canyon (when not focusing on the trail, that is).<br />
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Although the skinny traverse may seem endless, eventually the trail reaches the end of the ridge and rounds the corner into the Escalante drainage, where it begins a quick descent to the dry watercourse.<br />
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Following the sandy washbottom offers a few route finding challenges to avoid pouroffs, but scrambles up and around soon lead to the mouth of Escalante Creek and the Colorado River.<br />
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Escalante offers some good tent sites along the river, with excellent ambience including superlative views and a constant but soothing white noise of water flowing over rocks in the channel.<br />
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Beyond Escalante Creek the path continues along the river for a brief while before climbing quickly to the level of the rising <b>Shinumo</b> quartzsite bench above <b>Seventy Five Mile Creek</b>.<br />
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The Shinumo formation is very erosion resistant rock, and this is seen clearly in sheer walls formed above the lower end of Seventy Five Mile Creek. While there are one or two places to drop into the canyon from above, in general these require a good deal of scrambling and exposure to negotiate, and it is wiser to continue up canyon where the bed of the creek meets the emergence of the Shinumo.<br />
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Once in the streambed the path is an obvious walk down canyon to the river. The narrow walls of Seventy Five Mile Creek offer an inviting place to take refuge during the heat of the day, with lots of shade and cool, uncommunicative rock. <br />
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Although camping is possible at the mouth of Seventy Five Mile Creek, be aware of potential flash flooding, particularly during the summer thunderstorm season. Heavy rain falling on the rim above may not be obvious to anyone deep in the canyon, and vertical walls on either side of the creek prevent rapid escape from a sudden and violent torrent of water and debris.<br />
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The next stage of travel on the Escalante stays closer to the river, climbing a few hundred feet above the water while heading west.<br />
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The distinctive and brightly colored <b>Hakatai Shale</b> appearing downstream at the mouth of aptly named <b>Red Canyon</b> signals the eventual end of the Escalante Route - but we're not there yet.<br />
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The beach at the mouth of <b>Papago Creek</b> suddenly looms below you, and the trail makes a abrupt and rocky descent to reach it soon afterwards.<br />
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Papago is unlike other side canyons encountered on this trip in that it terminates at the river in a steep pouroff at the mouth of the creek. The shallow but dark narrows provides welcome shade on a hot day.<br />
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Another appealing feature is that the beach is small and unsuitable for most river parties, so hikers wanting peace and solitude will find this to be a nice option for camping.<br />
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While camped at this very restful and isolated spot, I saw the second and only other people I would encounter on this trip.<br />
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Even though the end of the trail is near, there are still two interesting challenges to overcome. The first comes immediately upon leaving Papago Beach, and consists of a quartz wall some 35 - 40 feet high. Although there are ledges and steps that can be utilized to surmount the rock face, it can be somewhat disconcerting to do it while wearing a heavy pack. Some suggest using a rope to pull the pack up after climbing, but I have found it to be relatively easy if you take your time and rest between moves.<br />
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Looking down from above after making the climb:<br />
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Once on top of the wall, the trail once again climbs sharply and higher than one would expect to continue the trip. Fortunately amazing views take much of the sting out of the steep ascent.<br />
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The last and possibly most intimidating obstacle is just ahead. Sometime in the past a massive rockslide occurred, creating a boulder and rock filled channel that forms a downward route back to the river. This seemingly unstable and threatening pile of rubble is loose and unconsolidated, and great care is needed here to make it down in one piece.<br />
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Looking back up after negotiating the most treacherous section:<br />
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It is advised that large groups stay close together or very far apart when taking on the debris field to avoid triggering further slides. Even as a solo hiker I definitely tested each and every step to be sure it was secure before proceeding.<br />
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At the bottom of the jumbled pile, the trail resumes its association with the river, wandering amongst large rocks and riparian vegetation along the banks.<br />
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In short order the roar of Hance Rapids begins to fill the air, and the terminus of the Escalante Route is found at the mouth of Red Canyon. Many good campsites are found on the east side of the drainage, and this makes a good place to stop for the night before continuing on in one of several different directions.<br />
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For those whose journey is nearing an end, the climb out on the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/New_Hance_Trail.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">New Hance Trail</a> follows Red Canyon to the rim. Or if the trip is to be extended, the beginning of the Tonto East Trail is found on the opposite side of Red Canyon, and heading in that direction could be the start of many other hiking options.<br />
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The temptation is to keep on eastward, to the next stunning vista or majestic overlook. Who knows - maybe someday I will give in to the impulse and just keep going. But today I climb out, and even though every step takes me closer to exiting the Canyon and returning to life as I know it, I have gathered a rich and satisfying trove of images, sounds, smells, and sensations that will stay with me forever. <br />
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That's what hiking in Grand Canyon's backcountry is really all about.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tlH1lNMl_NU/T5Si9H-78NI/AAAAAAAAM_0/sZhqMpkMyKk/s800/IMG_0141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tlH1lNMl_NU/T5Si9H-78NI/AAAAAAAAM_0/sZhqMpkMyKk/s800/IMG_0141.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div>Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-4365888453545914852012-06-22T20:33:00.000-07:002012-06-25T11:23:00.074-07:00Grand Canyon - The Tanner Trail<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ts2flo9bLtw/T5SjWu14JYI/AAAAAAAANzg/2Y6NG37Y6bU/s800/IMG_0164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="280" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ts2flo9bLtw/T5SjWu14JYI/AAAAAAAANzg/2Y6NG37Y6bU/s800/IMG_0164.JPG" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a>The <b>Grand Canyon</b> is one of the largest natural features on the planet, stretching 277 miles from one end to the other. Despite this incredible expanse, there are relatively few established paths that will take a person from the rim to the <b>Colorado River</b>. One of these is the <b>Tanner Trail</b>, located on the <b>South Rim</b> in the eastern section of <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/index.htm" style="color: red;">Grand Canyon National Park</a>.<br />
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The 10 mile Tanner Trail is usually a means to an end, although it certainly makes for a good destination in itself with beach camping along the river. Many hikers use the Tanner as one leg of a trip featuring the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Escalante_Route.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Escalante Route</a>, or as a staging point for a trip upstream to visit the <b>Little Colorado River</b> via the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Beamer_Trail.pdf" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Beamer Trail</a>. Whichever you option you choose, you'll experience wide open vistas of Grand Canyon unlike any other rim to river route.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Uhi9xhvLzUY/T5Sg2WSmc7I/AAAAAAAAM0I/HOVigwB3bsg/s800/IMG_0003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Uhi9xhvLzUY/T5Sg2WSmc7I/AAAAAAAAM0I/HOVigwB3bsg/s800/IMG_0003.JPG" width="280" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a>Beginning near the parking area for <b>Lipan Point</b> on <b>Desert View Drive</b> (also referred to as <b>U.S. Highway 64</b>), Tanner Trail departs to the northeast through a pygmy forest of juniper and pinyon pine.<br />
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The path wastes no time making a swift and rocky descent through upper layers of the canyon. At this point views are limited, but that's o.k. as most hikers will be giving their full attention to the loose, steep trail.<br />
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Like many Grand Canyon trails, the Tanner owes its origins to the earliest inhabitants of the region. When pioneer and prospector <b>Seth Tanner</b> came to the area in the late 1800's, he improved the path once used by Native peoples to reach the Colorado River for the purpose of working his copper claims.<br />
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On another historical note the Tanner was once a conduit for horse thieves transporting stolen animals from Arizona to Utah. After driving mustangs into the canyon, rustlers altered brands in an attempt to disguise the horses before pushing across the river and up the opposite side using the <b>Nankoweap Trail</b>.<br />
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The rapid descent of the <b>Kaibab</b> and <b>Coconino</b> layers ends just under 2 miles from the beginning. Here the trail enters the reddish <b>Supai</b> Group, and hikers can finally look up at the scenery around them.<br />
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At this point the path straddles a ridge separating Tanner Canyon from <b>Seventy Five Mile Canyon</b> (many side canyons in Grand Canyon are named for where they intersect with the Colorado River - Seventy Five Mile Canyon is found at river mile 75). Looking to the west reveals an impressive view of the country downriver.<br />
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For day hikers, 75 Mile Saddle makes a good turn around point. The next several miles of trail winds through a wide basin in the jumbled Supai layer, and several suitable campsites can be found scattered throughout this area.<br />
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With the starting point of Tanner over 7800 feet on the rim and the destination at the river being around 2300 feet, nearly a mile of elevation must be lost along the way. This middle section doesn't help much, with the trail meandering on a very long traverse while making its way to the <b>Redwall</b> descent.<br />
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I frequently mention the Redwall when detailing Grand Canyon hikes simply because it is the most dominant geographic and geologic feature of backcountry travel. The ancient 335 million year old limestone layer forms sheer cliffs that range from 400 to 900 feet high, and it presents one of the most difficult obstacles to anyone attempting to reach the river.<br />
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Animals and early inhabitants found places where the rock had faulted and slumped into the gorge, creating a slightly less severe slope. Here on the Tanner, when the drop through the Redwall finally comes it is as steep and challenging as any found in the canyon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxba0sIGNndC4tiCeRsVZ2ig-7PhOnv4AkCZUPvS0pApFEOIAAjRV99IVlcQYxCzBxi6jmqem_7AMgy1iFx44smXmaZk8tphP_5QtF6CDzyZ34RZCij0VEO9kDhOxgpo2Z94jekTE6p0/s800/IMG_0031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxba0sIGNndC4tiCeRsVZ2ig-7PhOnv4AkCZUPvS0pApFEOIAAjRV99IVlcQYxCzBxi6jmqem_7AMgy1iFx44smXmaZk8tphP_5QtF6CDzyZ34RZCij0VEO9kDhOxgpo2Z94jekTE6p0/s800/IMG_0031.JPG" width="300" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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After an extended and often precarious scramble hikers can take a few moments to breath and once again look up from the tops of their shoes at the surroundings.<br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FjEVp0NtvJU/T5ShZLrdM3I/AAAAAAAAM2s/9YvG7mp9AwI/s800/IMG_0035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FjEVp0NtvJU/T5ShZLrdM3I/AAAAAAAAM2s/9YvG7mp9AwI/s800/IMG_0035.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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The trail begins a long, steady drop along the ridge, which ultimately leads to the west wall of Tanner Canyon above a dry streambed. <br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B9gms1UhY1I/T5ShbtN7IeI/AAAAAAAAM28/XkTif00rATs/s800/IMG_0038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B9gms1UhY1I/T5ShbtN7IeI/AAAAAAAAM28/XkTif00rATs/s800/IMG_0038.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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What makes the Tanner different from other rim to river routes becomes evident as wide open vistas unfold before you. The eastern end of Grand Canyon consists of rock layers known as the <b>Supergroup</b> which tend to be softer and more easily eroded. The result is a more open, all-encompassing scene showcasing the river flowing in a sinuous line below.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V8IhmGUZAis/T5Shc9pFSlI/AAAAAAAAM3E/pePAIGiZlgM/s800/IMG_0039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V8IhmGUZAis/T5Shc9pFSlI/AAAAAAAAM3E/pePAIGiZlgM/s800/IMG_0039.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vqQOwGzOYyA/T5ShiB8yz3I/AAAAAAAAM3k/Ky34EZQCYVQ/s800/IMG_0043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vqQOwGzOYyA/T5ShiB8yz3I/AAAAAAAAM3k/Ky34EZQCYVQ/s800/IMG_0043.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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As one of the longer rim to river routes the last mile or so can seem endless, with the path making slow but steady progress towards the creek bed and eventually the river.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l0nmRhB2dUM/T5ShlXb9OkI/AAAAAAAAM30/TzeOSSuO9QU/s800/IMG_0045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l0nmRhB2dUM/T5ShlXb9OkI/AAAAAAAAM30/TzeOSSuO9QU/s800/IMG_0045.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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The sound of elements in conflict begins to fill the air, faintly at first then louder as you approach. The ceaseless pounding of river currents through Tanner Rapids works tirelessly to erode uncaring stone, while weary hikers trudge on in anticipation of cold water caressing hot, tired feet.<br />
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Finally the mouth of the creek, the river, and trail converge as one. The sensation of weightlessness is palpable as the pack is lifted from aching shoulders, and the rush to untie boot laces begins. All else is forgotten in the moment as a feeling of accomplishment combines with appreciation of where you are to erase any lingering trail fatigue.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JFPRQjuCmm8/T5Shm33AVVI/AAAAAAAAM38/IBZZ9tk4664/s800/IMG_0047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JFPRQjuCmm8/T5Shm33AVVI/AAAAAAAAM38/IBZZ9tk4664/s800/IMG_0047.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Once camp is laid out and you've settled in, it's time to sit back and watch the late afternoon sun paint the eastern canyon walls in vivid hues while shadows drape the landscape inch by inch. <br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XuX5u5mkSXU/T5Shp5MvunI/AAAAAAAAM4U/36cN89ZvgVU/s800/IMG_0053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XuX5u5mkSXU/T5Shp5MvunI/AAAAAAAAM4U/36cN89ZvgVU/s800/IMG_0053.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G7bj0VcY3X0/T5ShpHLeoDI/AAAAAAAAM4M/Fn5Smlj4dmA/s800/IMG_0052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G7bj0VcY3X0/T5ShpHLeoDI/AAAAAAAAM4M/Fn5Smlj4dmA/s800/IMG_0052.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Getting here might be a challenge for many people, and most won't even try. But that's part of what makes it so incredible. While thousands will experience one of the world's greatest natural wonders standing elbow to elbow from a crowded overlook, you're actually in it, up close and personal.<br />
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When the sun goes down, churning whitewater mere yards from camp will lull you to sleep. Once the day begins anew first light from the rising sun will ignite colors of the upper canyon walls, putting on a display that is reserved just for you. It's your ticket to the Greatest Earth on Show.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gCgogp4RboM/T5Shj0ikrpI/AAAAAAAAM3s/V2zs2-5N3A8/s800/IMG_0044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gCgogp4RboM/T5Shj0ikrpI/AAAAAAAAM3s/V2zs2-5N3A8/s800/IMG_0044.JPG" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a>Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-64438916413844392742012-06-14T14:50:00.000-07:002012-06-17T21:28:21.514-07:00Chaco Canyon - Compass, Calendar, Ceremonial City Part III<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5GCYeQoOWvU/Tpn1tCafkUI/AAAAAAAAMh4/-grahR1moi0/s800/IMG_5431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5GCYeQoOWvU/Tpn1tCafkUI/AAAAAAAAMh4/-grahR1moi0/s800/IMG_5431.jpg" width="280" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div><b>Chaco Canyon</b> is a place of exceptional beauty and cultural significance, and those willing to endure miles of rough dirt roads will find multiple opportunities for exploration and discovery. I covered many of the valley sites in <b style="color: red;"><a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/10/chaco-canyon-compass-calendar-and.html">Part I</a></b> and <b style="color: red;"><a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/10/chaco-canyon-compass-calendar.html">Part II</a></b><span style="color: red;">,</span> and wanted to complete the series with some of the lesser visited ruins located above the canyon rim and to the west.<br />
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Getting to the elevated and isolated Great Houses requires hiking trails that are fairly steep at the outset, however once on mesa the path is less strenuous, and the effort is rewarded with amazing views of the surrounding area. <br />
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An easier trail leads west to <b>Kin Kletso</b>, <b>Casa Chiquita</b>, the <b>petroglyphs</b>, and <b>Penasco Blanco</b> following an old wagon road through the canyon bottom. Except for a sometimes impassable crossing of <b>Chaco Wash</b> the path is relatively level.<br />
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The two complexes on the rim are located on either side of the canyon; the one on the north side is called <b>Pueblo Alto</b>, and the other to the south is referred to as <b>Tsin Kletzin</b>. The parking area and associated trailheads are found along the nine mile <b>Loop Road</b> - Pueblo Alto trail begins near the <b>Pueblo del Arroyo</b> parking lot, and the <b>South Mesa</b> trail leading to Tsin Kletzin departs from the <b>Casa Rinconada</b> ruins.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-in3o5Dweo_8/Tpnl0RtB4MI/AAAAAAAAMbY/A0HyvTVTE8w/s800/IMG_5065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-in3o5Dweo_8/Tpnl0RtB4MI/AAAAAAAAMbY/A0HyvTVTE8w/s800/IMG_5065.jpg" width="280" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div><b>Kin Kletso, Casa Chiquita, and Chacoan Petroglyphs</b><br />
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Before beginning the journey to Pueblo Alto, the trail leads directly to another valley site known as Kin Kletso. This medium sized Great House is located about half a mile west of Pueblo del Arroyo and the best known Chacoan complex, <b>Pueblo Bonito</b>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-koz1iF7y2aE/Tpnl1-K9NCI/AAAAAAAAMbc/j2TJ0ekhC04/s800/IMG_5066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-koz1iF7y2aE/Tpnl1-K9NCI/AAAAAAAAMbc/j2TJ0ekhC04/s800/IMG_5066.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
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Kin Kletso is a name is of Navajo origin, being essentially a mispronunciation of the words for "yellow house". This Great House like others to the east is built in close proximity to the north wall of Chaco Canyon. Archaeologists speculate that the structure was constructed and occupied around 1125 a.d., and is thought to have been occupied by only one or two households.<br />
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It is estimated that Kin Kletso contains 55 rooms and 4 kivas, with a two story tower that may also have functioned as a place of worship. The overall shape of the building is rectangular, with individual room walls radiating from a central dividing wall. Some of the best views of the ruins are obtained by hiking a short distance up the Pueblo Alto trail.<br />
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The trail diverges here at Kin Kletso with one leg climbing up to the rim behind the pueblo, and the other continuing just over 3 miles westward towards Penasco Blanco. For now we'll stay in the canyon to visit another Great House and the largest concentration of petroglyphs found at Chaco.<br />
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<b>Casa Chiquita</b><br />
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"Little House" in spanish, Casa Chiquita is another Great House about one mile from the trailhead. Largely unexcavated, the low walls built on a small hill look like an extension of the crumbling cliffs behind them. This is one of the older structures here, built around 1060. It is also one of the more humble sites with block of rooms surrounding a single kiva.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PUHmkVi3SgY/Tpn1qQIstMI/AAAAAAAAMhw/sP3Z3T4ds2k/s800/IMG_5427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PUHmkVi3SgY/Tpn1qQIstMI/AAAAAAAAMhw/sP3Z3T4ds2k/s800/IMG_5427.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R6vovuTi7q8/Tpn1u1-kCUI/AAAAAAAAMh8/phvgJ4jr5Bg/s800/IMG_5435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R6vovuTi7q8/Tpn1u1-kCUI/AAAAAAAAMh8/phvgJ4jr5Bg/s800/IMG_5435.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--N_xsex3wm0/Tpn1xDIeBSI/AAAAAAAAMiA/X8KgSkGyAH0/s800/IMG_5438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--N_xsex3wm0/Tpn1xDIeBSI/AAAAAAAAMiA/X8KgSkGyAH0/s800/IMG_5438.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Another .5 miles beyond Casa Chiquita is a short detour which snakes along the north canyon wall for nearly a mile to reveal several petroglyph panels. Each panel has a marker which corresponds to an entry in a Park Service trail guide, available for purchase at the Visitor Center. I recommend this very useful and informative booklet for those who want to know more about the origin and possible significance of this prehistoric "graffiti".<br />
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Here are photographs of some of the more prominent artworks:<br />
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<table border="0" style="width: 150px;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Teu-RMbAfqs/Tpn11l3R_oI/AAAAAAAAMiM/snbnMRdiFbk/s800/IMG_5452.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="80" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Teu-RMbAfqs/Tpn11l3R_oI/AAAAAAAAMiM/snbnMRdiFbk/s800/IMG_5452.jpg" width="120" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="7" /></a></td><td><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BDL50FHdxDQ/Tpn1ycFbeqI/AAAAAAAAMiE/aMspcND87h0/s800/IMG_5442.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="80" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BDL50FHdxDQ/Tpn1ycFbeqI/AAAAAAAAMiE/aMspcND87h0/s800/IMG_5442.jpg" width="120" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="7" /></a></td><td><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Iym1X3vLhrs/Tpn1zpAieXI/AAAAAAAAMiI/KN3YDd3dtZs/s800/IMG_5450.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="80" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Iym1X3vLhrs/Tpn1zpAieXI/AAAAAAAAMiI/KN3YDd3dtZs/s800/IMG_5450.jpg" width="120" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="7" /></a></td></tr>
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<table border="0" style="width: 150px;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WNudNBGfUDA/Tpn14bWjvYI/AAAAAAAAMiU/An7M01VDXNA/s800/IMG_5463.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WNudNBGfUDA/Tpn14bWjvYI/AAAAAAAAMiU/An7M01VDXNA/s800/IMG_5463.jpg" width="200" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" /></a></td><td><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c62zfWAOOD8/Tpn13ILsCdI/AAAAAAAAMiQ/rNHG0NsZ14s/s800/IMG_5456.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c62zfWAOOD8/Tpn13ILsCdI/AAAAAAAAMiQ/rNHG0NsZ14s/s800/IMG_5456.jpg" width="200" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" /></a></td></tr>
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The trail to Penasco Blanco was impassable during my visit due to flooding in Chaco Wash. If you can make it across, just beyond the wash is a short spur to another pictograph known as the "<b>Supernova</b>". This painting is believed to record a celestial explosion which occurred in 1054 a.d., the remains of which are known to us as the <b>Crab Nebula</b>. <br />
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Noted by Chinese and Japanese astronomers of the time, the death of this star was visible during the day, and would have lit the night sky for nearly a month. Although we can't be certain this is what is depicted here, Hopi tribes who are descendants of Chacoan culture have an oral history describing the "blue star", another possible reference to the event.<br />
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<b>Pueblo Alto Trail</b><br />
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After returning to Kin Kletso, it's time to ascend the rim of the canyon to visit one of the mesa top sites. The trail is steep and rocky and climbs to a narrow crevice which emerges onto the plateau.<br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TkjKztHJy4E/TpnmTfIDWbI/AAAAAAAAMb0/GwHfgwU0y-g/s800/IMG_5080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TkjKztHJy4E/TpnmTfIDWbI/AAAAAAAAMb0/GwHfgwU0y-g/s800/IMG_5080.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Hh6-q8GA6s/TpnmU4vK7HI/AAAAAAAAMb4/jdjx-y1GEZM/s800/IMG_5081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Hh6-q8GA6s/TpnmU4vK7HI/AAAAAAAAMb4/jdjx-y1GEZM/s800/IMG_5081.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Once on the canyon rim the walking is relatively easy, and soon the hiker is presented with a choice of continuing either direction around a large loop. To reach Pueblo Alto directly, choose the left branch. For outstanding views of Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl the quickest route is the right leg of the trail.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-okpeTe9F3i8/TpnmYF8Hb7I/AAAAAAAAMcA/sVm3h266NtE/s800/IMG_5085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-okpeTe9F3i8/TpnmYF8Hb7I/AAAAAAAAMcA/sVm3h266NtE/s800/IMG_5085.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1um4xUA9xHA/TpnodiKjKsI/AAAAAAAAMc4/T_JNBvGg9Ps/s800/IMG_5114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1um4xUA9xHA/TpnodiKjKsI/AAAAAAAAMc4/T_JNBvGg9Ps/s800/IMG_5114.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<b>Pueblo Alto</b><br />
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This high and isolated ruin complex consists of four separate structures, most of which are unexcavated. Named <b>Pueblo Alto</b>, <b>New Alto</b>, <b>East Ruin</b>, and <b>Rabbit Ruin</b>, these long single story buildings show some evidence of year-round habitation by small groups. Located in proximity to the ruins is one of the largest midden (refuse) mounds found in the Park, and it contains a wealth of material that is still being studied for clues as to how the people lived.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KB1Jy7dnbSU/TpnoxMkB77I/AAAAAAAAMc8/kE4LHXk1eS0/s800/IMG_5123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KB1Jy7dnbSU/TpnoxMkB77I/AAAAAAAAMc8/kE4LHXk1eS0/s800/IMG_5123.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HomH9rgIRa0/TpnoynPmN6I/AAAAAAAAMdA/QmAk7MCJp2E/s800/IMG_5124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HomH9rgIRa0/TpnoynPmN6I/AAAAAAAAMdA/QmAk7MCJp2E/s800/IMG_5124.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NFoYLUW-nvw/TpnytbbAIUI/AAAAAAAAMdM/12z2Z4kG6aE/s800/IMG_5127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NFoYLUW-nvw/TpnytbbAIUI/AAAAAAAAMdM/12z2Z4kG6aE/s800/IMG_5127.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bFyhwuDUeqU/Tpnpp6k22DI/AAAAAAAAMdE/kFmpOzqWGN4/s800/IMG_5125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bFyhwuDUeqU/Tpnpp6k22DI/AAAAAAAAMdE/kFmpOzqWGN4/s800/IMG_5125.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8xm4CLYbYw8/Tpnyuy-0dbI/AAAAAAAAMdQ/Doq7aNH5MYY/s800/IMG_5129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8xm4CLYbYw8/Tpnyuy-0dbI/AAAAAAAAMdQ/Doq7aNH5MYY/s800/IMG_5129.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WpCCMfe6Z94/Tpny07QcWvI/AAAAAAAAMdc/_08aQeMm_j8/s800/IMG_5135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WpCCMfe6Z94/Tpny07QcWvI/AAAAAAAAMdc/_08aQeMm_j8/s800/IMG_5135.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z-TK3IYQoFo/Tpny3MEAEJI/AAAAAAAAMdg/CZs6CxwXMnE/s800/IMG_5136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z-TK3IYQoFo/Tpny3MEAEJI/AAAAAAAAMdg/CZs6CxwXMnE/s800/IMG_5136.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<table border="0" style="width: 150px;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Kiz3sn1XmY/TpnzAbksjZI/AAAAAAAAMdw/ypeEdH8T5nc/s800/IMG_5143.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Kiz3sn1XmY/TpnzAbksjZI/AAAAAAAAMdw/ypeEdH8T5nc/s800/IMG_5143.jpg" width="200" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" /></a></td><td><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HomH05XuIU4/Tpny72kvTqI/AAAAAAAAMdo/QJlZsND4hto/s800/IMG_5140.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HomH05XuIU4/Tpny72kvTqI/AAAAAAAAMdo/QJlZsND4hto/s800/IMG_5140.jpg" width="200" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" /></a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-da1x7iapUCM/TpnzIHtNBZI/AAAAAAAAMeA/Z5M2LoF803M/s800/IMG_5153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-da1x7iapUCM/TpnzIHtNBZI/AAAAAAAAMeA/Z5M2LoF803M/s800/IMG_5153.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_4EL4IMoukY/TpnzGaMjF9I/AAAAAAAAMd8/LshgHnXJ87w/s800/IMG_5150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_4EL4IMoukY/TpnzGaMjF9I/AAAAAAAAMd8/LshgHnXJ87w/s800/IMG_5150.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Pueblo Alto is the hub for a network of interconnecting roads left behind by the builders. In many cases these pathways were surveyed and cleared of debris to a width of 30 feet. When encountering cliffs or ledges, they constructed stairways or ramps to surmount the obstacle so that the alignment could continue uninterrupted.<br />
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To me this is one of the most intriguing aspects of Chacoan culture. I found myself asking why people without horses or the wheel would need such straight, wide thoroughfares, and it seems the answer might be tied to the use of many of the buildings at Chaco for purely ceremonial purposes. <br />
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If Chaco existed primarily as a place for people to come together for rituals and large gatherings, the roads become more than a means to get from one place to another. Perhaps the journey itself had great significance to those making pilgrimage. <br />
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The image below is of the mostly obscure North Road, which lies within one degree of true north in its orientation. Not bad for a people without technology. <br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0B0ay2dmEoc/TpnyyWlMJMI/AAAAAAAAMdY/orW7a40mUFg/s800/IMG_5134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0B0ay2dmEoc/TpnyyWlMJMI/AAAAAAAAMdY/orW7a40mUFg/s800/IMG_5134.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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This spiderweb of avenues is currently inventoried at over 400 miles, and led not only to structures in and around Chaco, but extended well into other areas of the region, possibly linking people here with surrounding communities such as <b>Aztec</b> and <b>Mesa Verde</b>. The interpretive panel below shows some of these connections.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ibAV5yRXyE/TpnzL6RGO7I/AAAAAAAAMeI/6rMLbCK-Zes/s800/IMG_5156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ibAV5yRXyE/TpnzL6RGO7I/AAAAAAAAMeI/6rMLbCK-Zes/s800/IMG_5156.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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From here the trail turns eastward across the mesa, with outstanding views across a wide expanse of country.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D_wujtWygpE/TpnzONQmNDI/AAAAAAAAMeM/DLwlUBV4YWs/s800/IMG_5157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D_wujtWygpE/TpnzONQmNDI/AAAAAAAAMeM/DLwlUBV4YWs/s800/IMG_5157.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Because of the elevation above the surrounding region, it is believed the inhabitants of Pueblo Alto could communicate with other groups at a distance using fire or even simple reflectors made from selenium crystals. Across the canyon to the south is another Great House called <b>Tsin Kletzin</b>, and there are many prominent buttes, mesas, and mountains on the horizon that could likewise be used to send and receive messages. <br />
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<b>Fajada Butte</b> is one such landmark seen below, and it is centrally located to Chaco pueblos and sites.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UlwzrvK6yiA/Tpn0iuA5pwI/AAAAAAAAMgU/TKlLIVP_3-Y/s800/IMG_5334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UlwzrvK6yiA/Tpn0iuA5pwI/AAAAAAAAMgU/TKlLIVP_3-Y/s800/IMG_5334.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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As the trail rounds the head of a shallow box canyon, a very interesting artifact becomes visible ahead. Known as the <b>Jackson Steps</b>, what look like toe and fingerholds carved into a sheer rock wall are the weathered remains of what were once wide, deep steps leading from the wash bottom to the mesa top.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0HkpvecmlGE/TpnzV0rTF8I/AAAAAAAAMec/xoy0ZoT9ABQ/s800/IMG_5164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0HkpvecmlGE/TpnzV0rTF8I/AAAAAAAAMec/xoy0ZoT9ABQ/s800/IMG_5164.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qlYvdlG7KXo/TpnzUCy6xEI/AAAAAAAAMeY/T_UJlQnjccU/s800/IMG_5161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qlYvdlG7KXo/TpnzUCy6xEI/AAAAAAAAMeY/T_UJlQnjccU/s800/IMG_5161.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BUwgT08KOXc/TpnzR_yejtI/AAAAAAAAMeU/tyfeacwRLAk/s800/IMG_5160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BUwgT08KOXc/TpnzR_yejtI/AAAAAAAAMeU/tyfeacwRLAk/s800/IMG_5160.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hKAaplHjZgI/TpnzXgPWX6I/AAAAAAAAMeg/g4ewCMS1CkE/s800/IMG_5165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hKAaplHjZgI/TpnzXgPWX6I/AAAAAAAAMeg/g4ewCMS1CkE/s800/IMG_5165.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Another notable sight along the path is from the natural world. These are the fossilized remains of shrimp burrows in the sandstone, left over from a marine environment during the Cretaceous period.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h_7d5ul33zE/TpnzQLTBEnI/AAAAAAAAMeQ/k_o40U4_4Oc/s800/IMG_5159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h_7d5ul33zE/TpnzQLTBEnI/AAAAAAAAMeQ/k_o40U4_4Oc/s800/IMG_5159.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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The loop culminates at the rim of the Chaco Canyon, where great aerial views of Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito present themselves before the trail returns to the starting point.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iC4zsgXeYr4/TpnzgYt1eyI/AAAAAAAAMe0/R3RPESiHrT4/s800/IMG_5190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iC4zsgXeYr4/TpnzgYt1eyI/AAAAAAAAMe0/R3RPESiHrT4/s800/IMG_5190.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DusuZW6u1L0/TpnzbGzqnDI/AAAAAAAAMeo/kxnFZ5_yd3c/s800/IMG_5174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DusuZW6u1L0/TpnzbGzqnDI/AAAAAAAAMeo/kxnFZ5_yd3c/s800/IMG_5174.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-97zLWl4M-iM/TpnzdLlv7gI/AAAAAAAAMes/2nUCK85QneA/s800/IMG_5183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-97zLWl4M-iM/TpnzdLlv7gI/AAAAAAAAMes/2nUCK85QneA/s800/IMG_5183.jpg" width="400" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<b>Tsin Kletzin</b><br />
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Across the canyon on South Mesa is another complex of ruins named Tsin Kletzin. Like the sites on the north side, this hike can be done as either a 3.6 mile loop or a direct approach which is shorter at 2.6 miles. The trailhead is located near the kiva at Casa Rinconada on the Loop Road. There is a moderate climb of about 450 feet with a few rocky sections to reach the rim.<br />
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Once on the plateau the views are all encompassing, including most of the major Great Houses in the canyon below. Also visible are the silhouette of New Alto on the northern horizon, the <b>Chuska Mountains</b> to the west, and the <b>San Juan Basin</b> to the north.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rSc7klWJztg/Tpn1UlrJRqI/AAAAAAAAMhA/qqrh93A7tTM/s800/IMG_5390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rSc7klWJztg/Tpn1UlrJRqI/AAAAAAAAMhA/qqrh93A7tTM/s800/IMG_5390.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Another feature of note is <b>South Gap</b>, which splits the mesa in two. This break in the landscape allows access to the canyon from the south using another Chacoan road. Anyone hiking the loop trail will descend into South Gap from the mesa before returning to Casa Rinconada.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WqHC8Sw5XLg/Tpn1WWWa8_I/AAAAAAAAMhE/Aoj_1znPa_Y/s800/IMG_5394.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WqHC8Sw5XLg/Tpn1WWWa8_I/AAAAAAAAMhE/Aoj_1znPa_Y/s800/IMG_5394.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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On approach to Tsin Kletzin the ruins appear at first to be just another low jumble of rocks breaking the relatively flat plain of the mesa.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pbyZcXGTnt8/Tpn1YKCtknI/AAAAAAAAMhI/dOFoDn4znhw/s800/IMG_5396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pbyZcXGTnt8/Tpn1YKCtknI/AAAAAAAAMhI/dOFoDn4znhw/s800/IMG_5396.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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The name is a corruption of the Navajo language, and is interpreted as "place of black wood" or charcoal. Thought to once have contained 81 rooms, 3 kivas, and a plaza, the site was constructed in the same timeline as the Pueblo Alto complex across the canyon.<br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2MCEyLFpByo/Tpn1Zw2pagI/AAAAAAAAMhM/qhrcJKmrNWY/s800/IMG_5398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2MCEyLFpByo/Tpn1Zw2pagI/AAAAAAAAMhM/qhrcJKmrNWY/s800/IMG_5398.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3mIG8U24F2o/Tpn1fuQC6SI/AAAAAAAAMhY/Iy_yofLkUF0/s800/IMG_5413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3mIG8U24F2o/Tpn1fuQC6SI/AAAAAAAAMhY/Iy_yofLkUF0/s800/IMG_5413.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AorR77AzTwk/Tpn1brd5C9I/AAAAAAAAMhQ/PyPaEoZrs2I/s800/IMG_5403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AorR77AzTwk/Tpn1brd5C9I/AAAAAAAAMhQ/PyPaEoZrs2I/s800/IMG_5403.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cF_A6mx516E/Tpn1hG7DHMI/AAAAAAAAMhc/hklHu-Ws1SY/s800/IMG_5415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cF_A6mx516E/Tpn1hG7DHMI/AAAAAAAAMhc/hklHu-Ws1SY/s800/IMG_5415.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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Despite the sweeping view this is a lonely place, seemingly forgotten and seldom visited. I felt the quiet as a palpable presence here, and it was hard to imagine people ever making this their home.<br />
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I wish I could journey back in time to see the vibrant life of these places at the height of Chacoan achievement, and gain a better understanding of how the ancestral puebloans embraced this challenging yet beautiful environment. There is much at Chaco Canyon that remains a mystery to the modern world, and what I've seen here leaves me with more questions than answers.<br />
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I do know that the accomplishments of these "prehistoric" people are far beyond what many cultures of that era were capable of, and I believe that much of what they knew has been forgotten by contemporary humans. There are lessons here for us, and I hope we are wise enough to learn them.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w79Fmxy0p_0/Tpn0-knseMI/AAAAAAAAMgs/2c_3YuIhYEg/s800/IMG_5372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w79Fmxy0p_0/Tpn0-knseMI/AAAAAAAAMgs/2c_3YuIhYEg/s800/IMG_5372.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/10/chaco-canyon-compass-calendar-and.html">Chaco Canyon - Compass, Calendar, Ceremonial City Part 1</a><br />
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<a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/10/chaco-canyon-compass-calendar.html">Chaco Canyon - Compass, Calendar, Ceremonial City Part 2</a><br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-59309353067183884472012-06-07T15:00:00.000-07:002014-05-16T09:45:06.333-07:00Mesa Verde - Ruin and Restoration<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-InKVgUYsEuU/T9ZvCd8HWBI/AAAAAAAANy0/_gHCpi2qco8/s800/800px-Mesa-Verde---Cliff-Palace-in_1891_-_edit1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" height="203" magnifyby="3" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-InKVgUYsEuU/T9ZvCd8HWBI/AAAAAAAANy0/_gHCpi2qco8/s800/800px-Mesa-Verde---Cliff-Palace-in_1891_-_edit1.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1891 Photograph of Cliff Palace by Gustaf Nordenskiold</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the Colorado Plateau certain geographical and cultural features have attained name recognition with the general population because of their unique qualities, and <a href="http://www.nps.gov/meve/index.htm" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Mesa Verde</a> definitely fits that category. As probably the best known collection <b>Ancestral Puebloan</b> "cliff dwellings" Mesa Verde ranks high on many people's list of places to see, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.<br />
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Located in southwestern Colorado on <b>U.S. Highway 160</b> about 10 miles east of <b>Cortez</b>, Mesa Verde was established by Theodore Roosevelt in 1906 to "preserve the works of man" and is the only National Park in the U.S. dedicated solely to human achievement. Within the 52,000 acre boundary over 5000 archaeological sites exist including 600 cliff dwellings, although the majority of these are not accessible to the general public. <br />
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Although the park is open year-round, certain areas are closed seasonally - check the Park <a href="http://www.nps.gov/meve/index.htm" style="color: red;" target="_blank">website</a> for additional information.<br />
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<b>Mesa Verde</b><br />
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The main focus of the Park consists of two separate paved roads that circumnavigate <b>Chapin</b> and <b>Wetherill Mesas</b>, with most developed ruins found in canyons below the rim. The Park Visitor Center is located at <b>Far View</b>, as well as lodging, dining, and shopping for those who desire the convenience of staying in the Park. For the more self-sufficient the concessionaire operates a large campground complex at <b>Morefield Village</b>.<br />
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Once past the entrance station the road into the Park offers excellent scenery as it climbs 1000 feet along a series of switchbacks. Mesa Verde translates from spanish to "green table", and the appellation is well deserved as steep slopes clad in scrub oak and pinyon-juniper forests rise to the relatively flat terrain of the plateau.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8AM5OFzwX3A/T9T17N-v_UI/AAAAAAAANws/HlbYAgKUq54/s800/IMG_5478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8AM5OFzwX3A/T9T17N-v_UI/AAAAAAAANws/HlbYAgKUq54/s800/IMG_5478.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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At the high point elevation is just over 8000 feet above sea level, with the rest of the Park lying between 6500 and 7000 feet. At this altitude summers are generally warm and sunny, although afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. Fall and spring present a typically varied pattern of mild days and chilly nights, while winters tend to be cold and snowy.<br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cYfs7k-zjBY/T9T1LiBwxPI/AAAAAAAANwU/vmdz25NFWTU/s800/IMG_5616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cYfs7k-zjBY/T9T1LiBwxPI/AAAAAAAANwU/vmdz25NFWTU/s800/IMG_5616.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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The first development occurs 4 miles along the road. Morefield Village offers the Park's only gas station, grocery store, and campground. The campground is large and sprawling with both RV and tent sites, and is open from mid-May to mid-October. Visitors should also be aware that trailers and towed vehicles are not permitted past this point. <br />
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One notable feature of the campground is three hiking trails which offer opportunities to climb up onto the surrounding mesas for excellent views of <b>Montezuma</b> and <b>Mancos</b> valleys outside the Park. These pictures are from an outing on the <b>Point Lookout Trail</b>.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RA592pFNj8Q/T9T2FjaeqcI/AAAAAAAANxw/uukzGQ_Mokg/s800/IMG_5506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RA592pFNj8Q/T9T2FjaeqcI/AAAAAAAANxw/uukzGQ_Mokg/s800/IMG_5506.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9fKOlkisqPM/T9T2EbrbyII/AAAAAAAANxo/ZzUwTx5wFsU/s800/IMG_5501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9fKOlkisqPM/T9T2EbrbyII/AAAAAAAANxo/ZzUwTx5wFsU/s800/IMG_5501.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EsFwo50iGVM/T9T1449oL_I/AAAAAAAANwk/VPTdm1OtJXg/s800/IMG_5477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EsFwo50iGVM/T9T1449oL_I/AAAAAAAANwk/VPTdm1OtJXg/s800/IMG_5477.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0uFzIQ_2P_4/T9T2Bt5-omI/AAAAAAAANxY/bfzVkjxYtio/s800/IMG_5496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0uFzIQ_2P_4/T9T2Bt5-omI/AAAAAAAANxY/bfzVkjxYtio/s800/IMG_5496.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RiIqA0fXXZ4/T9T18a-QR3I/AAAAAAAANw0/ylkvU6Dx3yc/s800/IMG_5483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RiIqA0fXXZ4/T9T18a-QR3I/AAAAAAAANw0/ylkvU6Dx3yc/s800/IMG_5483.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1cGjQETLTbY/T9T1-06cUWI/AAAAAAAANxE/hOEDm0CgIsQ/s800/IMG_5492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1cGjQETLTbY/T9T1-06cUWI/AAAAAAAANxE/hOEDm0CgIsQ/s800/IMG_5492.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j_V2nbujUO4/T9T2CtQHr0I/AAAAAAAANxg/QYjXZvGyE14/s800/IMG_5499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j_V2nbujUO4/T9T2CtQHr0I/AAAAAAAANxg/QYjXZvGyE14/s800/IMG_5499.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<b>Far View</b><br />
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11 miles beyond Morefield Campground is Far View. This is the focal point for Park Activities during the warmer months, offering a Visitor Center with information and tickets for Ranger led tours of cliff dwellings. Far View Terrace and Lodge offer dining and a place to stay for those who desire the convenience of in-Park hotel accommodations. All facilities here operate from late April until late October.<br />
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Far View is also where the Park road splits, with one leg heading west towards Wetherill Mesa, and the other destined for Chapin Mesa to the south.<br />
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<b>Wetherill Mesa</b><br />
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The 12 mile western leg ending at Wetherill Mesa is a seasonal road, closing for the winter in early September and reopening in late May. Be advised there are restrictions on who may drive this narrow, two lane route. Specifically no vehicles over 8000 lbs. GVW and not longer than 25 feet in length, and no bicycles allowed. <br />
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Wetherill Mesa offers a slightly less developed experience than Chapin Mesa, with tram and foot trail access from the <b>Wetherill Ranger Kiosk</b> located at the end of the road. From here the unhurried traveler can spend time exploring ruins such as <b>Nordenskiold #16</b>, <b>Step House</b>, and <b>Badger House Community</b>. There is also a ticketed, Ranger-led tour of <b>Long House</b> available during the summer.<br />
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<b>Chapin Mesa</b><br />
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The road to Chapin Mesa is open year-round. Along the route is the opportunity to stop and see the <b>Far View Sites</b>, offering a self guiding tour of mesa top villages. At five miles beyond Far View the visitor will encounter <b>Spruce Tree House</b>, one of only two major cliff dwellings open to the public without Ranger supervision (during the summer months only - in winter visitors must accompany a Ranger) <br />
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Another feature found at this location is <b>Chapin Mesa Museum</b>, with information, exhibits, and a bookstore. Once past this congested and busy hub of activity there are two spurs that culminate in loops. The eastern leg is a six mile drive called <b>Cliff Palace Loop</b> which leads directly to the very popular <b>Cliff Palace</b> and <b>Balcony House</b> cliff dwellings.<br />
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The western segment is also 6 miles long and is called the <b>Mesa Top Loop</b>. This is billed as an auto tour featuring various overlooks and short walkways leading to mesa top sites.<br />
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<b>Cliff Palace</b><br />
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Perhaps the best known and most visited dwelling at Mesa Verde is Cliff Palace. Tucked beneath a large alcove beneath the rim of the mesa, Cliff Palace is the largest structure with the greatest number of rooms, and was the first one discovered by anglos in the area. Access to the ruins is by Ranger led tour only and requires paid admission.<br />
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Tickets must be purchased at Far View Visitor Center or Morefield Village and are for specific time slots. When choosing a time period for the tour be aware of the time it takes to make the trip from these outlets, as missing the appointed time will result in not being able to participate in the tour. Visitors should also be aware that tour groups can be very large, and schedules are tight. This is not a leisurely stroll at your own pace.<br />
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Beginning on the rim with a brief orientation, the tour drops off the rim via a series of stairs and ladders to reach the alcove where the ruins are.<br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QQYK67MA3F4/T9TzwEjh5GI/AAAAAAAANoo/HhWrNlktHMo/s800/IMG_5514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QQYK67MA3F4/T9TzwEjh5GI/AAAAAAAANoo/HhWrNlktHMo/s800/IMG_5514.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NsXHgpfO5rc/T9TzxxYOk2I/AAAAAAAANow/piaP-xMLvLM/s800/IMG_5518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NsXHgpfO5rc/T9TzxxYOk2I/AAAAAAAANow/piaP-xMLvLM/s800/IMG_5518.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Unlike some of the other cliff dwellings I've visited, the tour at Cliff Palace presents only the facade of the ruins, and visitors are kept well away from the buildings for the obvious reason of preservation. The following images are presented without narrative, as they speak for themselves.<br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KzVidJ7dAYI/T9T0DzTKtOI/AAAAAAAANqU/o8OaKIvYjWE/s800/IMG_5532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KzVidJ7dAYI/T9T0DzTKtOI/AAAAAAAANqU/o8OaKIvYjWE/s800/IMG_5532.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xHGJGH4WipA/T9T0MZHPXrI/AAAAAAAANrI/iyQsaZOA0MQ/s800/IMG_5538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xHGJGH4WipA/T9T0MZHPXrI/AAAAAAAANrI/iyQsaZOA0MQ/s800/IMG_5538.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dd82doxD0Is/T9T0J7LXe_I/AAAAAAAANq0/W8g5MzL46P4/s800/IMG_5536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dd82doxD0Is/T9T0J7LXe_I/AAAAAAAANq0/W8g5MzL46P4/s800/IMG_5536.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f5x3oEb7H9Y/T9T0LCFBnBI/AAAAAAAANq8/VCWqcvS69Xk/s800/IMG_5537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f5x3oEb7H9Y/T9T0LCFBnBI/AAAAAAAANq8/VCWqcvS69Xk/s800/IMG_5537.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nwl38OzMXrg/T9Tz1xCz-0I/AAAAAAAANpI/lpxo8nz361M/s800/IMG_5523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nwl38OzMXrg/T9Tz1xCz-0I/AAAAAAAANpI/lpxo8nz361M/s800/IMG_5523.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hWHAEbpxqu0/T9Tz8OymmYI/AAAAAAAANps/vSTo2R76E2M/s800/IMG_5527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hWHAEbpxqu0/T9Tz8OymmYI/AAAAAAAANps/vSTo2R76E2M/s800/IMG_5527.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p9J1FIIN5Rk/T9Tz3ucqjdI/AAAAAAAANpQ/_rO1qGmWJcE/s800/IMG_5524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p9J1FIIN5Rk/T9Tz3ucqjdI/AAAAAAAANpQ/_rO1qGmWJcE/s800/IMG_5524.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ShePMAikjmw/T9Tz6mpd6aI/AAAAAAAANpk/n7asV-QvNsw/s800/IMG_5526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ShePMAikjmw/T9Tz6mpd6aI/AAAAAAAANpk/n7asV-QvNsw/s800/IMG_5526.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PlkTQjhRNlE/T9Tz0qnqvoI/AAAAAAAANpA/qke0oqyxHN0/s800/IMG_5522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PlkTQjhRNlE/T9Tz0qnqvoI/AAAAAAAANpA/qke0oqyxHN0/s800/IMG_5522.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ESyrWTAmY44/T9T0WebUYKI/AAAAAAAANr4/KNal0rqBXeU/s800/IMG_5546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" height="150" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ESyrWTAmY44/T9T0WebUYKI/AAAAAAAANr4/KNal0rqBXeU/s800/IMG_5546.jpg" width="200" /></a><b>Balcony House</b><br />
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Located on the same loop as Cliff Palace, Balcony House is another popular attraction that requires a ticketed tour to visit. On the day I was there all tours were sold out so I could not participate, which in retrospect was probably a good thing. See the commentary at the end of the post to see why I feel that way. <br />
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I did get some long range photos of Balcony House from the <b>Soda Canyon Overlook Trail</b>.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JsK_6MbuBzI/T9T0deHemRI/AAAAAAAANsg/q2kCZNU6Nkw/s800/IMG_5556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JsK_6MbuBzI/T9T0deHemRI/AAAAAAAANsg/q2kCZNU6Nkw/s800/IMG_5556.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BfBVzd7WL1o/T9T0adp9vxI/AAAAAAAANsQ/Xt7sFtY93_o/s800/IMG_5552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BfBVzd7WL1o/T9T0adp9vxI/AAAAAAAANsQ/Xt7sFtY93_o/s800/IMG_5552.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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From various points along the Soda Canyon trail, granaries and houses built beneath cliff ledges can be seen across the divide. I enjoyed spending time here scanning the walls for signs of habitation, and was surprised at how many small structures I could see.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iEvEz4bxt7U/T9T0iUlfMfI/AAAAAAAANs8/XTYm2ynYv8A/s800/IMG_5563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iEvEz4bxt7U/T9T0iUlfMfI/AAAAAAAANs8/XTYm2ynYv8A/s800/IMG_5563.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jP1JuWTGat4/T9T0hPHZgHI/AAAAAAAANs0/TigprSYuoMk/s800/IMG_5560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jP1JuWTGat4/T9T0hPHZgHI/AAAAAAAANs0/TigprSYuoMk/s800/IMG_5560.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sKEXdezQrV0/T9T1DD_8vSI/AAAAAAAANvo/HZgBXtB2LfM/s800/IMG_5603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" height="150" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sKEXdezQrV0/T9T1DD_8vSI/AAAAAAAANvo/HZgBXtB2LfM/s800/IMG_5603.jpg" width="200" /></a><b>Spruce Tree House</b><br />
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One of the more prominent and best preserved cliff houses open to the public without a Ranger (in summer) is Spruce Tree House located near Chapin Mesa Museum. A self guiding tour begins near the museum and allows visitors to spend as much time as they like inspecting the ruins. <br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rbsyHCg9ITo/T9T0mgmeS2I/AAAAAAAANtM/db1Zje_aPeI/s800/IMG_5572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rbsyHCg9ITo/T9T0mgmeS2I/AAAAAAAANtM/db1Zje_aPeI/s800/IMG_5572.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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One unique feature is a rebuilt kiva where people can descend a short ladder into a ceremonial chamber.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9_9MAS8G8Hc3uRv3HalyaJMhyZxShgXBtRyiHelOgdSraYH4vl-XfbqDj5Iuw5zjl7TcUCN4qCiVeLGYRqYbxX5xslHphfVxJffOLbX55nztzo-DtGMpf34eFbvggq4ISg5SIMmNj78/s800/IMG_5582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9_9MAS8G8Hc3uRv3HalyaJMhyZxShgXBtRyiHelOgdSraYH4vl-XfbqDj5Iuw5zjl7TcUCN4qCiVeLGYRqYbxX5xslHphfVxJffOLbX55nztzo-DtGMpf34eFbvggq4ISg5SIMmNj78/s800/IMG_5582.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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This cliff house also offer visitors the chance to walk around the structures, although some areas are still off limits.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WmnCQtKzKG4/T9T09Oh_eLI/AAAAAAAANvQ/ox1eTqjoLUM/s800/IMG_5597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WmnCQtKzKG4/T9T09Oh_eLI/AAAAAAAANvQ/ox1eTqjoLUM/s800/IMG_5597.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XRTVqysDaQE/T9T01FKegwI/AAAAAAAANug/SNABt0Y_zJ8/s800/IMG_5590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XRTVqysDaQE/T9T01FKegwI/AAAAAAAANug/SNABt0Y_zJ8/s800/IMG_5590.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0Sr5E-R2Iio/T9T02evngTI/AAAAAAAANuo/kUGX6n_k41Y/s800/IMG_5591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0Sr5E-R2Iio/T9T02evngTI/AAAAAAAANuo/kUGX6n_k41Y/s800/IMG_5591.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p05CthbLF5U/T9T06Vq6e_I/AAAAAAAANvA/f9Oplu9TzKQ/s800/IMG_5595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p05CthbLF5U/T9T06Vq6e_I/AAAAAAAANvA/f9Oplu9TzKQ/s800/IMG_5595.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OUsSzz4Tdq0/T9T03y_89aI/AAAAAAAANuw/M0SLUVpXFAk/s800/IMG_5592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OUsSzz4Tdq0/T9T03y_89aI/AAAAAAAANuw/M0SLUVpXFAk/s800/IMG_5592.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I spotted this turkey vulture perched in a nearby snag. He might have been waiting for an unfortunate tourist to drop in for his next meal.<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J5szTfSPdJ0/T9T1Bc2iP3I/AAAAAAAANvg/X6oj8ym71ew/s800/IMG_5600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J5szTfSPdJ0/T9T1Bc2iP3I/AAAAAAAANvg/X6oj8ym71ew/s800/IMG_5600.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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The Park was quite crowded when I visited in October, and Wetherill Mesa had already closed for the season. This limited the places I could see, so after walking through Spruce Tree House I decided to make an exit.<br />
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Before concluding, I would like to make a few observations about the subtext of this post: Ruin and Restoration. For ruin, we have to mention the legacy of Richard Wetherill. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nW1yO0GZcgA/T9UTqapFU_I/AAAAAAAANyE/bMHUxUT-Bgk/s800/richard_wetherill_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="4" height="200" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nW1yO0GZcgA/T9UTqapFU_I/AAAAAAAANyE/bMHUxUT-Bgk/s800/richard_wetherill_2.JPG" width="135" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of wetherillfamily.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Richard Wetherill</b><br />
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In discussing Ancestral Puebloan sites such as Mesa Verde one name comes up again and again - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Wetherill" style="color: red;">Richard Wetherill</a>. Richard was a member of a well established ranching family in southwest Colorado with ties to local tribes, particularly the Utes. His name is given to the eponymous Wetherill Mesa primarily because he and another cowboy named <b>Charlie Mason</b> are credited with being the first white men to discover Cliff Palace in 1888. <br />
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He is also associated with "finding" <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2010/01/new-year-old-places.html" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Keet Seel</a> and <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2009/10/betatakin.html" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Betatakin</a>, and was part of the <b>Hyde Exploring Expedition</b> that famously exploited <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/10/chaco-canyon-compass-calendar-and.html" style="color: red;" target="_blank">Chaco Canyon</a> for its cultural treasures. <br />
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Considered a controversial figure by many academics for the systematic plundering of these sites, Wetherill was a man of the times. In hindsight it is easy to be critical of what he and his family did in the pursuit of artifacts to sell and collect, yet many of his contemporaries enthusiastically joined him with shovel in hand. <br />
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To be sure, modern archaeological practices had not been established by the late 1800's, and like-minded people of the era felt it was appropriate to loot ancient sites for objects of great value. Although extensive damage was done and much of what was removed is lost to the public, judging him by the standards of the day would render a more honest appraisal of the man and his actions. <br />
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After all, even though it was not his intention the attempt to attain control over Chaco Canyon for personal gain led indirectly to the eventual protection and preservation of many of these places.<br />
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<b>Restoration</b><br />
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In terms of site preservation archaeological thinking is much different today than it was even 25 years ago. In the past, once these cultural remnants were discovered the initial approach was one of excavation, removal, and cataloging of artifacts. <br />
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But everything made by man has a life span, and uncovering fragile structures that are hundreds of years old carries many risks, with renewed exposure to the elements accelerating that inevitable deterioration. In addition, opening these sites to the public hastens their demise as thousands of visitors walk, climb, and crawl over ruins, breaking them down stone by stone.<br />
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When the earliest stewards of the fledgling Parks and Monuments realized that stabilization and restoration would be necessary if their respective collections were to endure, most turned to contemporary building materials like Portland cement and asphalt as a means to keep walls and structures from crumbling further. <br />
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To improve access they also installed sidewalks, steps, and handrails to allow more people to see these cliff houses perched high on canyon walls. In some cases Rangers reconstructed towers, rooms, and walls in a well meaning but misguided attempt to recreate the "actual" appearance of a pueblo or kiva.<br />
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Today the management philosophy has changed, and basic stabilization of ruins using native materials is accepted practice in most federally managed cultural Parks and Monuments. This also includes leaving ruins buried in accumulated deposits, thus keeping the forces of nature at bay for a while longer. And for purists reconstruction is no longer the preferred means of displaying ancient structures.<br />
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<b>Conclusion and Criticism</b><br />
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I rarely develop unfavorable impressions about any of the places I choose to visit on the Colorado Plateau, however this is not the case with Mesa Verde. Before I offer my opinion however, understand I am not attempting to discourage anyone from making the trip. There are many aspects of the Park I did not get to see because of seasonal closures, and among those that I did get to there were worthwhile and enjoyable moments. <br />
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I have always maintained that I do not enjoy large crowds corralled together to experience the wonders of man or nature, and that may be part of my disenchantment. But for me to chronicle my trip and not mention the things that disturbed me would be doing a disservice to anyone who reads this post.<br />
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YVtE_BWFErU/T9T0PdlQG4I/AAAAAAAANyY/kQWX5F1pQoA/s800/IMG_5541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" height="150" magnifyby="3" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YVtE_BWFErU/T9T0PdlQG4I/AAAAAAAANyY/kQWX5F1pQoA/s800/IMG_5541.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Mesa Verde is undoubtably one of the more important Ancestral Puebloan communities, not only because of the spectacular setting and architecture of the dwellings, but also because it represents a once thriving cultural center that stretched across much of the Four Corners region. <br />
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Unfortunately what is on display for the public at Mesa Verde does not always present an authentic picture. Because of historical looting in search of relics, a great many of the original structures were compromised. Compounding the damage was that early on visitor access to the cliff dwellings was poorly controlled, leading to additional deterioration. <br />
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Over the years a great deal of stabilization and reconstruction work has been done on the larger cliff houses, and handrails, paved walkways, and smoothly plastered walls add to the museum-like atmosphere. Some of what I saw appeared more like a carefully crafted exhibit instead of a 900 year old Ancestral Puebloan dwelling. While I understand the need to preserve and protect what remains, there were times when I felt the artifice of the place.<br />
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Another criticism I have has to do with the "theme park" like atmosphere I observed in regards to touring the major cliff dwellings. Mesa Verde showcases five substantial cliff dwellings, three of which require a ticket and a scheduled time to visit.<br />
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Perhaps my experience was unique, but on the tour of Cliff Palace I participated in the group was exceptionally large, consisting primarily of international visitors traveling via multiple tour buses. The majority spoke little or no English, and this resulted in a lengthy delay as the Ranger had to wait for the group guides to translate and relay questions. <br />
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Because of the very tight schedule, the tour was bracketed by groups from the earlier and subsequent time periods as we snaked through the ruins. The result was not a thoughtful introspective on the lives of cliff dwellers, but rather an affair that felt hurried and disjointed as we filed through like cattle.<br />
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I sympathize with Park Service personnel as they attempt to manage throngs of people who descend upon them each summer season. I understand they do the best they can with what they have, and trying to accommodate the largest number of people possible while preserving restored but still fragile sites is probably the number one challenge they face. <br />
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Having been to many other important Ancestral Puebloan communities such as Betatakin and Chaco Canyon, I could not help but compare the contrasts between my visits to each place. I suppose the distinguishing factors are notoriety and ease of access, as Mesa Verde is well known across the globe whereas the others are less so. <br />
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To be fair both Chaco and the ruins at Navajo National Monument require some form of commitment to reach, either via a rugged dirt road or a semi-strenuous hiking trail. Mesa Verde can be seen by just about anyone with minimal effort, which is understandable as it is the mission of the Park Service to provide access to all in the areas they serve.<br />
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I left Mesa Verde feeling largely disappointed, being neither enlightened or impressed. I know that if I ever choose to visit again, it will be in the off season when I might have a better chance to explore and enjoy the ruins without feeling rushed or herded. <br />
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I enjoy visiting significant ancestral sites, and Mesa Verde is one of those places that should be seen at least once by those who are similarly intrigued. But if you go, be prepared to share the experience with lots of others in a tightly controlled environment.<br />
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<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_T7YMU98-8g/T9T1AKHI5XI/AAAAAAAANvY/d8oZY2efHQA/s800/IMG_5598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_T7YMU98-8g/T9T1AKHI5XI/AAAAAAAANvY/d8oZY2efHQA/s800/IMG_5598.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-64544687640239529172012-06-07T13:20:00.000-07:002012-06-10T15:03:24.134-07:00Hovenweep - Memories of the Past<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OLl-crqro80/T8L0iaK0w4I/AAAAAAAANYU/frYDlcBG04k/s800/IMG_5708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="210" width="280" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OLl-crqro80/T8L0iaK0w4I/AAAAAAAANYU/frYDlcBG04k/s800/IMG_5708.jpg" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div><br />
The Four Corners region is distinguished not only by magnificent scenery, but also significant remnants of a civilization that waxed and waned in canyons and on mesa tops for nearly 10,000 years. The first Ancestral people lived as hunter-gatherers, moving with the seasons to gather plants and hunt animals. Beginning around 1800 years ago subsistence farming emerged as a new way of sustaining life, and people began to build communities where water and soil enabled the tending of crops.<br />
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Most of these enclaves were deserted by the 1300's, possibly because of climactic change, depletion of resources, or conflict with others. Whatever the reason the Colorado Plateau has an abundance of relatively well preserved structures to see and explore, including the relatively obscure <a href="http://www.nps.gov/hove/index.htm" style="color: red;">Hovenweep National Monument</a>. <br />
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Located in the far southeastern corner of Utah near the Colorado border, Hovenweep preserves some of the more unusual architecture found in Ancestral Puebloan culture. In addition the setting is remote and peaceful, offering a chance to experience an environment comparable to what the earliest inhabitants encountered.<br />
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The Monument offers a modern and well designed Visitor Center with information on Ranger led activities, a small bookstore, and a 30 unit campground with access to water and restroom facilities. There are no RV hookups.<br />
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<b>Hovenweep - The "Deserted Valley"</b><br />
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The name Hovenweep is a Paiute/Ute word that translates as "deserted valley", which is essentially what late arriving tribes found upon entering the region. Managed by the <b>National Park Service</b>, Hovenweep is collection of well preserved ruins found in close proximity to the much larger <a href="http://www.blm.gov/co/st/en/nm/canm.html" style="color: red;">Canyons of the Ancients National Monument</a> administered by the <b>Bureau of Land Management</b>. <br />
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In total these two protected resources encompass the highest density of known sites in the country, and are part of the even wider umbrella of Ancestral Puebloan ruins that mantle the southwest. Included in the inventory are places such as <b>Mesa Verde</b>, <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2011/10/chaco-canyon-compass-calendar-and.html">Chaco Canyon</a>, <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2010/01/new-year-old-places.html">Keet Seel</a>, <a href="http://thejourneyofseldomseen.blogspot.com/2009/10/betatakin.html">Betatakin</a>, <b>Grand Gulch</b>, and <b>Canyon de Chelly</b> just to name a few of the better known examples.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1snOLOCN6xs/T8L1cIAfB4I/AAAAAAAANdc/0rf-X03sqRw/s800/IMG_5646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1snOLOCN6xs/T8L1cIAfB4I/AAAAAAAANdc/0rf-X03sqRw/s800/IMG_5646.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
The <b>Great Sagebrush Plain</b> is the setting for this concentration of sites, with several streams draining the 500 square mile table top of <b>Cajon Mesa</b>. Shallow canyons form channels where runoff could be captured or slowed with check dams, and alcoves beneath the rim provided shelter and space for granaries to store food. <br />
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Pinon pine and juniper grow in abundance providing raw materials for building, and in the case of pinon a high value food source in pine nuts. Canyon bottoms generally had sufficient soil for planting, and seeps and springs provided year-round water. In short, everything needed for life was found in the area.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SqHQXvUcVA4/T8L1Jkc9J-I/AAAAAAAANb4/XZfBhV43lzE/s800/IMG_5629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="210" width="280" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SqHQXvUcVA4/T8L1Jkc9J-I/AAAAAAAANb4/XZfBhV43lzE/s800/IMG_5629.jpg" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div><b>Little Ruin Canyon</b><br />
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Hovenweep consists of two units - <b>Little Ruin Canyon</b> and the <b>Holly Unit</b>. Little Ruin Canyon is located adjacent to Monument headquarters and is the one that most visitors see. The Holly Unit can be seen either via a moderate 8 mile round trip hike from the Monument, or accessed with a short drive on unimproved roads.<br />
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Little Ruin Canyon features a 2 mile loop trail that highlights most of the structures found in the immediate vicinity. The hike is easy enough on a meandering rock/dirt path, although there is a short descent into the canyon with a corresponding climb back out. A free trail guide is available that offers information about the sites and is useful for identifying the possible uses for each one.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_Cy1rO2RXxw/T8L1e0PCBxI/AAAAAAAANds/Q9mofP7jtmA/s800/IMG_5620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_Cy1rO2RXxw/T8L1e0PCBxI/AAAAAAAANds/Q9mofP7jtmA/s800/IMG_5620.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t8hALIIfbHQ/T8L1U8P1lLI/AAAAAAAANcw/dv5fJOUSsQ4/s800/IMG_5637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t8hALIIfbHQ/T8L1U8P1lLI/AAAAAAAANcw/dv5fJOUSsQ4/s800/IMG_5637.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
On a recent visit I hiked the loop trail and captured the following images consisting of some of the more recognizable ruins. Here is <b>Hovenweep Castle</b> from a few different vantage points:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9Q5NEi6BAco/T8L0-WZ5IGI/AAAAAAAANa4/wkOZRQZ0SxY/s800/IMG_5658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="190" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9Q5NEi6BAco/T8L0-WZ5IGI/AAAAAAAANa4/wkOZRQZ0SxY/s800/IMG_5658.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pqjnE-ULLyE/T8L02sVpngI/AAAAAAAANaI/3BdwoJHAoF8/s800/IMG_5649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pqjnE-ULLyE/T8L02sVpngI/AAAAAAAANaI/3BdwoJHAoF8/s800/IMG_5649.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DGSss6CfhX8/T8L03pV4OTI/AAAAAAAANaQ/3iBzfhtPncw/s800/IMG_5650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DGSss6CfhX8/T8L03pV4OTI/AAAAAAAANaQ/3iBzfhtPncw/s800/IMG_5650.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rfHDGZNMygU/T8L045VNfgI/AAAAAAAANaY/Skt31TaK2Is/s800/IMG_5651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rfHDGZNMygU/T8L045VNfgI/AAAAAAAANaY/Skt31TaK2Is/s800/IMG_5651.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<b>Hovenweep House</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ivr0uguV5bs/T8L09VsboyI/AAAAAAAANaw/ZK28U4TnlQ8/s800/IMG_5657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ivr0uguV5bs/T8L09VsboyI/AAAAAAAANaw/ZK28U4TnlQ8/s800/IMG_5657.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<b>Square Tower</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s4HRgfGqSjY/T8L07pmoWgI/AAAAAAAANao/GPsqO235WS8/s800/IMG_5654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s4HRgfGqSjY/T8L07pmoWgI/AAAAAAAANao/GPsqO235WS8/s800/IMG_5654.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ATfHGU6XRCg/T8L1BIZtXZI/AAAAAAAANbI/__b0MnhtPv8/s800/IMG_5663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ATfHGU6XRCg/T8L1BIZtXZI/AAAAAAAANbI/__b0MnhtPv8/s800/IMG_5663.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<b>Stronghold House</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XhcCZEu808g/T8L1jMW0IgI/AAAAAAAANd8/D5zujFFEKmU/s800/IMG_5622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XhcCZEu808g/T8L1jMW0IgI/AAAAAAAANd8/D5zujFFEKmU/s800/IMG_5622.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DJhGkXt7t10/T8L0sgNCWQI/AAAAAAAANZM/EsReEVbR0C0/s800/IMG_5675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DJhGkXt7t10/T8L0sgNCWQI/AAAAAAAANZM/EsReEVbR0C0/s800/IMG_5675.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<b>Tower Point</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zPLNT0IEWfM/T8L1IVuIECI/AAAAAAAANbw/NrPrJQ1t-Fc/s800/IMG_5628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zPLNT0IEWfM/T8L1IVuIECI/AAAAAAAANbw/NrPrJQ1t-Fc/s800/IMG_5628.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
<b>Eroded Boulder House</b><br />
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<b>Unit Type House</b><br />
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<b>Twin Towers</b><br />
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<b>Rim Rock House</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ridRVsKb1kk/T8L1a5ITsEI/AAAAAAAANdU/3D1tZJvby84/s800/IMG_5644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ridRVsKb1kk/T8L1a5ITsEI/AAAAAAAANdU/3D1tZJvby84/s800/IMG_5644.jpg" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div><br />
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Here is a view looking south/southwest across the canyon, from Stronghold House and Tower to Twin Towers and Rim Rock House.<br />
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This angle gives a perspective to the west showcasing Hovenweep House, Hovenweep Castle and Square Tower.<br />
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This special and beautiful place exists in splendid isolation, without the crowds and congestion of better known sites. Although what is visible to the public may be smaller in scope and scale than nearby Mesa Verde, it is no less impressive in presentation. The people who took this environment as their own and made it sustainable have certainly earned my admiration and respect.<br />
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Visiting Hovenweep takes the traveler somewhat off the beaten path, but for those who appreciate learning about the past and enjoying a visually rewarding landscape, it's well worth the detour.<br />
<br />Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889768962595649778.post-37741358154569104622012-05-22T18:33:00.000-07:002012-05-25T08:09:54.350-07:00On Foot Part XII - The Weatherford Trail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-55egwYdSGZc/T7r3U-B9H8I/AAAAAAAANW4/kwW2q4F3UI0/s800/IMG_7759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="210" width="280" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-55egwYdSGZc/T7r3U-B9H8I/AAAAAAAANW4/kwW2q4F3UI0/s800/IMG_7759.JPG" class="magnify" magnifyby="3" /></a></div>After living and recreating in and around Flagstaff, Arizona for nearly 20 years there are still a few places in my backyard I had yet to visit. One of these is the <b>Weatherford Trail</b>, which ascends the south flank of the <b>San Francisco Peaks</b> and connects to other routes exploring the <b>Inner Basin</b> and the highest point in the state, <b>Humphrey's Peak</b>.<br />
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The Weatherford has an interesting history, beginning as one man's dream of a toll road to the summit in 1916. The automobile was still somewhat of a novelty at the time, and people were constantly testing the limits of the new "horseless carriage" to see where it could take them. Envisioned as a tourist attraction by local Flagstaff entrepreneur <b>John Weatherford</b>, the road eventually made it to <b>Fremont Saddle</b>, but was ultimately abandoned in 1934 as maintenance costs and lack of revenue forced the <a href="http://kevinschindler.suite101.com/the-short-lived-weatherford-road-in-arizona-a210572">San Francisco Mountain Scenic Boulevard Company</a> out of business.<br />
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Today the route serves as a long and gradual path for hikers and horse riders to visit an area of the mountain relatively few people see, and provides access to a variety of trails that can be done as an "in and out" or as part of a long circumnavigation of the Peaks. This post focuses on the nearly 13 mile round-trip from the trailhead on <b>Shultz Pass Road</b> to <b>Doyle Saddle</b> and back.<br />
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Beginning at the parking area south of Schultz Pass Road, the trail immediately heads north, quickly crossing a natural gas pipeline. The first .5 mile of the hike is characterized by dense thickets of ponderosa pine also known as "dog hair", which are small trees growing in close proximity to one another. These unhealthy stands of immature trees are endemic to many areas of the forest, and represent years of poor management practices by humans.<br />
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As the trail climbs gradually towards the mountains the scenery improves markedly, featuring occasional open meadows flanked by mature ponderosa trees that present a park-like setting. Scientists who study the pre-settlement ecosystem believe this is a more realistic representation of how the environment appeared before fire suppression, the introduction of domestic livestock, and widespread logging of the landscape created the conditions we see today.<br />
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Not long afterwards white-barked aspens line both sides of the trail, forming a colonnade where the slightest breeze sets the leafy green rafters rustling in a gentle and soothing whisper.<br />
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Every so often a void opens up ahead, offering views of the Peaks themselves. At just over 12,500 feet, both <b>Agassiz</b> and Humphrey's peaks tower over everything else in northern Arizona, and harbor the only true alpine habitat in the state.<br />
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Because of extensive timber harvesting in the past, not many of these "yellow-bellies" exist today. Beautiful and stately, old growth ponderosa pines can live several hundreds of years and reach heights of 150 feet or more. At maturity the bark is a yellowish-reddish color, and at this point the tree is exceptionally resistant to fire, except where dense undergrowth exists that promote crown fires.<br />
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At about the 1.7 mile mark the <a href="http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c4/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gDfxMDT8MwRydLA1cj72BTJw8jAwjQL8h2VAQAzHJMsQ!!/?ss=110304&ttype=recarea&recid=55112&actid=104&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&navid=110000000000000&pnavid=null&cid=FSE_003741&pname=Flagstaff+RD+-+Kachina+Trail+%23150">Kachina Trail</a> intersects the Weatherford from the west. This long and relatively level trail girdles the south - southwestern slopes of the Peaks and forms one section of a possible loop hike. <br />
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Shortly after the junction the trail enters the <b>Kachina Peaks Wilderness</b> proper, where only human or horse legs can power you to the summit. Created in 1984, the Wilderness preserves nearly 19,000 acres of high altitude habitat that is exceedingly rare in the desert southwest.<br />
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Having reached the point where the mountain begins to rise dramatically from the gently sloping terrain at its base, the trail now begins a series of long switchbacks to achieve the saddle. Although the grade seems very slight, do not be deceived. Beginning at 8000 feet near Schultz Pass and ending at 10,800 above sea level this hike will leave those unaccustomed to high elevation hiking feeling a bit winded.<br />
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One thing I find quite curious is the existence of horned lizards in a sub-alpine environment. As reptiles it's hard to imagine they'd do well in this climate, but not only do they seem to thrive at altitude they do so in abundance. I have seen many of these spiny creatures sunning themselves on the trail where winter snowfall often exceeds several feet in depth, so they must have a trick or two under their scales.<br />
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Although we're well into the hike at this point there are two things I should mention about the Weatherford Trail. First the positive. This is an outstanding fall color hike, with expansive views of aspen groves interwoven into somber evergreen slopes. When cool crisp days with electric blue skies feature blazing gold and orange color splashed on a canvas of dark green it's sure to be a memorable experience.<br />
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Second is the not so great news. This is by and large the rockiest trail of all the area hikes I've done. I don't meant large rocks embedded in the ground creating an uneven surface. No, what I'm referring to are tens of millions of volcanic clinkers ranging in size from small pebbles to grapefruit, loose and unconsolidated and filling the trail bed from side side for long stretches. If this sort of thing annoys you it's probably best to stay away.<br />
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For my part I'm not especially fond of rocky trails, but being outdoors in beautiful environments is my thing, and if I have to stumble around and pick my way oh-so-carefully to get where I'm going then so be it. But I will say that as a "head down full-tilt" hiker, the Weatherford is frustrating because it seems impossible to get any sort of stride or rhythm going due to the ridiculous number of rocks. So, you've been warned.<br />
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Once the climb begins in earnest, there's not much to see as the trail engages in several very long and unremarkable switchbacks. The forest here is old growth sub-alpine timber, consisting mostly of <b>Douglas Fir</b> ,<b>Corkbark Fir</b>, and <b>Limber Pine</b> dominating a gloomy understory. There is also a good deal of deadfall across the trail, although not so much as to be arduous. And did I mention there were a lot of rocks?<br />
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To be sure there are highlights as the path breaks into the open from time to time, revealing tree clad pinnacles supporting the expanse of sky.<br />
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After what seems to be just short of forever, the saddle finally looms ahead. A last rocky switchback leads to an open platform suspended between Fremont and Doyle Peaks. From here can be seen the last remnants of winter snow clinging to chutes and crevices of the Inner Basin.<br />
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The Weatherford continues on from here, at first staying nearly level for a mile before intersecting with the <a href="http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55110&actid=50">Inner Basin Trail</a>. It then begins a steady climb to near 12,000 feet where it joins the <a href="http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55108&actid=50">Humphrey's Peak Trail</a> ascending the western flank of the mountain.<br />
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Speaking of Humphrey's Peak, here is a view of the "backside". At 12,633 feet Humphrey's is the highest point in Arizona.<br />
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This view shows Fremont Peak in the foreground at just under 12,000 feet, with the summit of Agassiz looming beyond. At 12,345 Agassiz is the second tallest in the range and the state.<br />
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This closeup shows the treeless upper reaches of Agassiz and long zig-zag switchbacks of the Weatherford as it climbs to the saddle between the peaks.<br />
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Doyle Saddle is frequently windswept as the mountain funnels upper air currents over and through the passes. Anyone making a overnight journey across the range will appreciate this simple yet effective windbreak - a good place to pitch a tent and have some measure of shelter against the elements.<br />
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Many times the journey is what compels the traveler to make the trip, while in other cases the destination provides the motivation. Although I can't say I really enjoyed the rockier sections of the trail, there is certainly enough beauty and serenity here to distract from the minor annoyance of a few stones in the path. <br />
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In this instance you get the best of both worlds - a scenic and peaceful walk in the wilderness of Arizona's highest mountains, and a bird's eye view of the "other" side of the Peaks. That should be more than enough reason to get your feet moving up the trail.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJsRCAVDmAE/T7r3W2ABkxI/AAAAAAAANXA/TYBmq34oYSs/s800/IMG_7760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJsRCAVDmAE/T7r3W2ABkxI/AAAAAAAANXA/TYBmq34oYSs/s800/IMG_7760.JPG" class="magnify" data-magnifyby="2" /></a></div>Eric Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02082277914003486970noreply@blogger.com0